Hello SunCR, My old compressor that has leaked since 2006 (when I bought the car) the front seal in where the clutch is, finally gave out for good.

I haven't a clue as to how to replace that o-ring but I know you do.

Here is the question, without getting too technical at first, how hard is that o-ring replacement.?? Any online tech sources with lots of pictures (like Batee.com)???

Here is part two, a brand new A/C Delco is at a GM parts distributor in Huntington Beach for $250.......

If the o-ring is difficult, I'll lean towards a new A/C compressor....

BUT reading all your other advice, I know that you advise to buy a few other things that need to be replaced.......I've always argued against that seeing as how it get's pricey and a lot of our cars aren't worth much anymore.....but I figure if I am going with a new compressor....then buy the other new stuff and do it correctly like you always suggest.

A).Fix the o-ring and do it all on the cheap (meaning buy the o-ring, fix the compressor, refill the system and maybe add some oil if I feel in a good mood

or

B) Buy the new compressor and all the other widgets (I forget all the things you said, so please repeat it for me as I haven't seen anything from you for about 2 years.)

 

Hopefully your compressor problem is simply a failed seal due to age. I went through 3 compressors before I finally figured out why my seals were failing. If there are any metal fragments in the system they will cause the seal to go bad. The fragments do not have to be visible. If you pull the orifice and it has a gray sludge on it, that could be a sign the system is contaminated. I ended up replacing everything. We tried backflushing but fragments can easily get trapped.

If you break the system open, you should definitely replace the orifice and the drier. Then have a shop evacuate and recharge the system.

 

Different Nippo - same drill: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm

You're only doing the shaft seal, so you don't need to go any further than removing the front part of the case. Do look for a groove in the shaft and if there, it's probably toast as I don't know of any source for a new crank.

You can get a seal kit at NAPA for around 50 Bucks.

Seal leaks cause additional wear so the orifice is probably filled with crap. I was so excited to try mine after slapping in a new seal, I forgot about that and wasted a bunch of R12 taking it back apart.

 

I re-sealed the compressor on my 89 (Denso) last fall. Did a lot of searching around first, and found this video to be pretty good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CD5lLC5v6PE&NR=1

Joel

 

I don't think I have a Nipondenso, Mine does not look boxy an silver...Mine looks round and black...I have an '84 cursefire

 

Opps - it's the Harrison R4. Hardly worth the trouble given the price. I'd just buy a new one.

 

^^Using that name you provided, look at what I found using Google Images

http://xmanproject.com/tutorials/r4-...sor/repair.php

That link is a tutorial on how to fix the clutch......but look at this picture ..look at the crap flung onto the tensioner from the front of the compressor....this is what mine had done



and this link that details the front seal.

http://trotliner.tripod.com/ac.html

 

I suggest buying the new one. Could save you time and possibly money in the long run. If its been leaking since 2006 and I assume you've been recharging the system every year, it makes since to buy a new one.

 

^^I call it "My permapurge system.

Yeah, it used to make it about 6 months....but then last Fall.....leaked out over night.

 

Thanks for thes suggestions on the Orifice and drier...I need to figure out this part as well.

as far as the vacuum issue, I work for Oerlikon Leybold Vacuum USA.....I have a vacuum pump or two lying around the garage.