Brake rotor removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 274
Likes: 12
From: Louisburg NC
Brake rotor removal
Do any of y'all have any tips on how to remove the front brake rotors from my '94?
I tried beating it with a plastic hammer. I tried driving a wooden wedge between the caliper mount and the rotor. No luck. They are removable, aren't they?
Any other Ideas?
I tried beating it with a plastic hammer. I tried driving a wooden wedge between the caliper mount and the rotor. No luck. They are removable, aren't they?
Any other Ideas?
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
The caliper mount will keep the rotor held captive so it can't come off but it should be loose. Remove the caliper mount and the only thing holding it is either the lug nuts, or rust.
If it's rust, try a bigger hammer. A gentle tap with a small sledge usually does the trick.
If it's rust, try a bigger hammer. A gentle tap with a small sledge usually does the trick.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,679
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From: NEwhere Ohio
My guess is you are hitting it from the back side out towards you (since you can on this car).
Ive made that mistake before. It wont come off like that.
You need to hit it from the outside - in. Tap the furthest point from the center that you can.
Ive made that mistake before. It wont come off like that.
You need to hit it from the outside - in. Tap the furthest point from the center that you can.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Remove the caliper mount
Sholud come right off
Sholud come right off
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Chances are that rust has joined the rotor and hub face. The wheel stud holes in the rotor are larger than the studs so you can spray some rust solvent like PB Blaster into the holes and let it sit for an hour or so.
If the old rotors are being replaced, give them a whack with a BFH on the outside edge. Hit down on the rotor on the top edge then on the outside edge. And you will have to remove the caliper abutment brackets to pull the rotors off the hub.
When you install the new rotors, make sure you clean off the mounting surface of the hub. You need to remove any rust buildup so the new rotor will sit evenly on the face. A small wire brush should be all you need. When I swap rotors, I'll wipe both mounting surfaces with a small amount of WD-40 to make sure they are clean.
If the old rotors are being replaced, give them a whack with a BFH on the outside edge. Hit down on the rotor on the top edge then on the outside edge. And you will have to remove the caliper abutment brackets to pull the rotors off the hub.
When you install the new rotors, make sure you clean off the mounting surface of the hub. You need to remove any rust buildup so the new rotor will sit evenly on the face. A small wire brush should be all you need. When I swap rotors, I'll wipe both mounting surfaces with a small amount of WD-40 to make sure they are clean.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Do not use a bigger hammer.
Use a dead-blow hammer and tap around the perimeter....from the inside out.
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Clean the hub with a wire brush the best you can, spray some WD40 and bang the sucker out. It was not born there, it will come out.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
Use a bigger hammer and you risk screwing up the hub you're trying to break the rotor free from.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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So long as you don't use a jackhammer you'll probably be alright.
Sometimes the little extra mass of giving it a tap with a real hammer instead of a rubber mallet is all it takes. If a few gentle taps don't get it, then you may need to bust out the PB blaster.
Sometimes the little extra mass of giving it a tap with a real hammer instead of a rubber mallet is all it takes. If a few gentle taps don't get it, then you may need to bust out the PB blaster.
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WD-40 is a lubricant, and would leave a silicone film. You want to clean the rotors with BrakeKleen or some other brake cleaner.
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WD-40 works really well in cleaning rusted parts.
But I would also suggest using brake cleaner on the rotor surfaces.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: somewhere between heaven and hell WI
I don't remember if the Vette had them but some vehicles had a screw or 2 going through the rotor into the hub from the factory but rarely got replaced. Check for it just to be sure.
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From: Texas
Race Director
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From: Texas
Melting Slicks
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Southern Piedmont Area
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by dizwiz24
My guess is you are hitting it from the back side out towards you (since you can on this car).
Ive made that mistake before. It wont come off like that.
You need to hit it from the outside - in. Tap the furthest point from the center that you can.
Man, thank you very much for that piece of advice.
I was changing brakes and rotors on my '96 and had been pounding on the inside of the driver's side rotor with a hammer. Bang for a few minutes...take a break...bang for a few minutes...take a break, etc. I did that for about a half hour with no results. It didn't even budge.
It was enough to make a preacher cuss.
I came inside, searched the Corvette Forum and found your post. I went back out and hit the outside of the rotor 4 or 5 times and it came loose.
Went over to the passenger side, did the same thing, and it came loose.
