Ok guys...........every one has been very helpful so far..........I have a 85 stock...........just replace the injectors.............starts right up...........has a slugish idle.......and a hestition when you want to get up and go...........so bad you have to play with the pedal!!!!!!!!!... check my fuel pressure (42lbs) all the way threw....... ( new plugs,wires,coil etc..)...just sounds like a miss...........Thanks Bo

 

Timing (between 6 & 8 degrees) clean the MAF, the throttle body with the air/idle removed, the air/idle itself then adjust it (1 1/8" from gasget to plunger tip) adjust TPS to .54 volts. Do that and we'll see where your at

 

Thanks check the volts ( good .546) idle/air check good ( 1.128)... MAF cleaned...............check timing...........looks to be 8 degrees........not 100% sure on that one..................

also when I am running in 2nd around 3400 rpm........you can feel the miss come and go........... I have check around to make sure I have all the plug wire connected correctley.........but I have gotton some different info on that..................Thanks Bo

 

Take off the tps and ohm check it. It may be bad. How bout those wires? Disconnect the battery and clear the codes as well. If you have no scanner, I recommend a battery quick disconnect **** on the battery for now, it's a littler easier. Don't want any codes to build-up.

 

I had to clear codes when I swapped out my injectors. Did the trick. Make sure you didn't break or swap out a vacuum line when you did the injectors as well.

 

Did you really pick-up a Vette for $300, or does that have some other meaning

 

Indeed check base timing with the connector in the Blk/Tan wire open.

For TPS I prefer to set .65Vdc at base idle (450rpm) or ~.75Vdc at 600-700rpm idle. Verify smooth voltage increase as you slowly open the throttle to max (engine off, of course). Adjust TPS for highest voltage at WOT; then go back to verify idle voltage is still proper.

 

The ECM reads the TPS voltage when you turn on the ignition and remembers that voltage as "idle". There is no advantage to setting it to anything other than the .54 volts they recommend. Also the ECM considers anything over 70% of 5 volts to be WOT, so anything over 3.5 volts is WOT. I've seen people recommend setting WOT to 4.5 volts and other magic numbers -- a waste of time.

The ECM resets the IAC valve every time you turn on or turn off the ignition. Setting the length of the pintle is not required. I push/screw it in as far as it will go into the IAC valve before installing. Turn ignition ON, wait 10 seconds for the ECM to reset, turn ignition OFF, wait 10 seconds for the ECM to reset. You're done.

If you disconnect the battery or the ECM reset connector the ECM will reset all the BLMs to the default value of 120. The ECM uses these values to determine how long to keep the injectors open. The ECM adjusts the BLMs while you drive by comparing them to the INT (closed loop integrator -- which is an instantaneous value that is calculated continuously on the fly). It takes the ECM a while to get the BLMs adjusted and there are 16 of them. That's why they say you need to drive the car for a while to let the ECM "learn" -- it's dialing in the BLMs. The BLMs are only adjusted when you're in closed loop, but they are used in both open and closed loop modes. The point of all this is that "you need to drive the car for a while" before you can say that it has a bog or other drivability issue.

On my car I get a bog right off idle when the car is cold. It goes away when it goes into closed loop mode. I don't see this problem right after I do an ECM reset. That means that the BLM of 120 is good, but it gets set too high after "learning". One thing I've heard can affect the BLMs is the air/fuel ratio setting in the PROM. Since we have "oxygenated" fuel in California, which has a different ideal AFR than pure gasoline, the stock AFR setting is not correct.

 

Hmmmm. Firing order problem? Are the plug wires installed correctly?

 

I won it on a raffle about 6 yrs ago....LOL.................

 

The TPS ohm out good..........set it to.546................as far as codes it has not been giving me any...............Thanks Bo

 

I have check and re-check about 5 time............because that is exactly what it is acting like.................BTW it smells like it is running rich while I am working on it while it is idling...........Thanks Bo

 

Church raffle?Where do you live, I wanna buy a ticket for the next one.

 

Naw..........I won it in New Jersey.........on a const....job..........They guy had tickets a 100.00 for one or 150.00 for two....so I bought 4..........go figure It was my night off and went to Atlantic city and loss my butt off........LOL.............I live in NC...........

The car ran great when I got.........

 

I had this EXACT issue on a '90 L98 Vette. Ran all kinds of tests and swapped known good parts with the originals (and back again). Turned out to be a stretched timing chain...at 48k miles. Took me forever to troubleshoot that one.