Window motor replacement step by step ***with pics***
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
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From: Bowling Green KY
Window motor replacement step by step ***with pics***
Alright, my recent need for info on what to expect doing a power window motor swap didn't yield much info, but thanks to those who did chime in. Also I did see helpful info in a tech tip, I wanted to do a write up for those who will be in need of help in the future.
Ok, I did the drivers door on my 92 and I started taking pics after the door panel was off. I'll try to go back and fill in the door panel when I have to take it back off.
With the door panel off you have this.....
Now this is just a dust/water shield that is held on with a tacky glue so just pop out the wiring clips that hold the harness in place and peel starting from whatever side you would like then set out of the way.
After this cover is gone you will see a sheet metal panel that covers the inner workings of the door. I didn't get a picture off the panel while it was on, but you will see parts of it coming up in the next few pics.
Now first thing is popping the lock rods out of the holders, they are circled below in red. Sorry for the blury pic, but you should get the idea. The top one is easy to pop out with your fingers and the bottom you can use your fingers with a short flat head screw driver. Just becareful to pull straight out so you don't break the clips.
Now here is the part I broke trying to take it out, it is the plastic clip that holds the door lock actuator rod in place. It looks like you take the rod out of the back of the clip, but as I tried it snapped. I put some silicone on the end of the rod to hold it until I can find a new clip or a better fix.
Next you will need to take out the bolts that hold the plate in. There are I believe eight little black ones (8mm I think) and one large silver bolt (10mm) Here are some pics to show you the bolts.
Now after you have taken out all the bolts that hold the plate you can slide the plate down into the door so you can free the top to lift it out. Becareful because the two lock rods are still in place in the inside door handle and the other is still attached to the plate, but you can pull the plate free enough to get to the next step. Again here are the two rods below.
Now the top lock rod you see goes to the inside door handle. After you have slid the plate down and out you can see the back, (I didn't get a pic of this) there is a little metal clip that holds the rod in the handle, it should be easy to remove then that end of the rod will just lay in the door. The bottom rod goes to the door lock. This is the one I couldn't figure out how to remove. There is a metal clip or something that holds the rod in place and i couldn't figure out how to remove it. However the panel will lay like so.
At this point you need to mark the positions of the regulator bolts and the window nuts. If you don't you will be spending a lot of time adjusting your window. You will have to do some, but if you mark the positions you'll save a ton of time.
Now it is time to unbolt the four regulator bolts. There are two on the top that are shown in the below picture and the bottom ones you can feel if you run your hand along the bottom edge of the door. They are directly below the bottom of the regulator if you follow down. Also go ahead and unplug the window motor. It is just one easy plug setting right on top.
With those four bolts out you now unbolt the three window nuts that hold the window to the regulator.
Once the window is loose you can wiggle the window backwards and free of the regulator and carefully set the window in the bottom of the door. Now there is nothing holding the regulator in place. Based on the position the regulator is in you have to turn and tilt the assembly and it will pull out.
With the assembly out it is time to remove the motor. You will do this by grinding the rivet heads off. I have circled the rivets in the above pic. Now once you get them off you can pull the motor off. HOWEVER have someone hold the assembly tight because when the motor gear frees from the regulator gear the spiral spring will cause the regulator to draw up fast.
If you notice in this pic one of the rivets is circled in blue. You will have to cut down what is left of that rivet really short because you'll have to pull the regulator open (how it was before the motor was removed) to get the rest of the rivet to fall out.
Now time for the new motor.
The motor I used was a Cardone from O'Reilly Auto Parts part number 42-130 or 42-131 depending on what side your doing. I recommend this model because it comes with the bolts needed to mount the motor so you don't have to get rivets. Just follow the included instructions on which type of bolt goes where so heads of the bolts don't cause an issue with the gear. If you get this motor or one like it that has bolts the two holes circled above in red will let the bolt go in no problem. The one circled in blue however is another story. There is a silver track bar that runs behind the hole not allowing access. The best way to re-install the new motor is put the two bolts in the red holes, slide the motor into place then have someone else spread the assembly apart while you push the motor so the gear engages. When it does put the nuts on the two bolts and now you don't have to worry about the assembly springing on you. Now for the third bolt that is in blue. You will have to use a pry bar or something to "easily adjust" the silver track to the side so the third bolt will go in. Just be easy and careful and it will go and you won't bend anything.
Once the new motor is mounted it would be a good idea to grease the regulator assembly so everything is smooth and since it is apart why not. Now its time to put everything back together. Try to get the nuts and bolts aligned back just how they were. (if you marked them like I suggested earlier in the write up it will be easier) You will most likely have to adjust the window a little bit so just take your time so it seals right. Don't forget to plug the motor back in and make everything tight. Test the motor before you put everything back together.
I hope this helps someone. Also if someone wants to chime in and tell us how to completely remove the metal panel or unhook the door lock actuator rod correctly so as not to break it that would be great.
Ok, I did the drivers door on my 92 and I started taking pics after the door panel was off. I'll try to go back and fill in the door panel when I have to take it back off.
With the door panel off you have this.....
Now this is just a dust/water shield that is held on with a tacky glue so just pop out the wiring clips that hold the harness in place and peel starting from whatever side you would like then set out of the way.
After this cover is gone you will see a sheet metal panel that covers the inner workings of the door. I didn't get a picture off the panel while it was on, but you will see parts of it coming up in the next few pics.
Now first thing is popping the lock rods out of the holders, they are circled below in red. Sorry for the blury pic, but you should get the idea. The top one is easy to pop out with your fingers and the bottom you can use your fingers with a short flat head screw driver. Just becareful to pull straight out so you don't break the clips.
Now here is the part I broke trying to take it out, it is the plastic clip that holds the door lock actuator rod in place. It looks like you take the rod out of the back of the clip, but as I tried it snapped. I put some silicone on the end of the rod to hold it until I can find a new clip or a better fix.
Next you will need to take out the bolts that hold the plate in. There are I believe eight little black ones (8mm I think) and one large silver bolt (10mm) Here are some pics to show you the bolts.
Now after you have taken out all the bolts that hold the plate you can slide the plate down into the door so you can free the top to lift it out. Becareful because the two lock rods are still in place in the inside door handle and the other is still attached to the plate, but you can pull the plate free enough to get to the next step. Again here are the two rods below.
Now the top lock rod you see goes to the inside door handle. After you have slid the plate down and out you can see the back, (I didn't get a pic of this) there is a little metal clip that holds the rod in the handle, it should be easy to remove then that end of the rod will just lay in the door. The bottom rod goes to the door lock. This is the one I couldn't figure out how to remove. There is a metal clip or something that holds the rod in place and i couldn't figure out how to remove it. However the panel will lay like so.
At this point you need to mark the positions of the regulator bolts and the window nuts. If you don't you will be spending a lot of time adjusting your window. You will have to do some, but if you mark the positions you'll save a ton of time.
Now it is time to unbolt the four regulator bolts. There are two on the top that are shown in the below picture and the bottom ones you can feel if you run your hand along the bottom edge of the door. They are directly below the bottom of the regulator if you follow down. Also go ahead and unplug the window motor. It is just one easy plug setting right on top.
With those four bolts out you now unbolt the three window nuts that hold the window to the regulator.
Once the window is loose you can wiggle the window backwards and free of the regulator and carefully set the window in the bottom of the door. Now there is nothing holding the regulator in place. Based on the position the regulator is in you have to turn and tilt the assembly and it will pull out.
With the assembly out it is time to remove the motor. You will do this by grinding the rivet heads off. I have circled the rivets in the above pic. Now once you get them off you can pull the motor off. HOWEVER have someone hold the assembly tight because when the motor gear frees from the regulator gear the spiral spring will cause the regulator to draw up fast.
If you notice in this pic one of the rivets is circled in blue. You will have to cut down what is left of that rivet really short because you'll have to pull the regulator open (how it was before the motor was removed) to get the rest of the rivet to fall out.
Now time for the new motor.
The motor I used was a Cardone from O'Reilly Auto Parts part number 42-130 or 42-131 depending on what side your doing. I recommend this model because it comes with the bolts needed to mount the motor so you don't have to get rivets. Just follow the included instructions on which type of bolt goes where so heads of the bolts don't cause an issue with the gear. If you get this motor or one like it that has bolts the two holes circled above in red will let the bolt go in no problem. The one circled in blue however is another story. There is a silver track bar that runs behind the hole not allowing access. The best way to re-install the new motor is put the two bolts in the red holes, slide the motor into place then have someone else spread the assembly apart while you push the motor so the gear engages. When it does put the nuts on the two bolts and now you don't have to worry about the assembly springing on you. Now for the third bolt that is in blue. You will have to use a pry bar or something to "easily adjust" the silver track to the side so the third bolt will go in. Just be easy and careful and it will go and you won't bend anything.
Once the new motor is mounted it would be a good idea to grease the regulator assembly so everything is smooth and since it is apart why not. Now its time to put everything back together. Try to get the nuts and bolts aligned back just how they were. (if you marked them like I suggested earlier in the write up it will be easier) You will most likely have to adjust the window a little bit so just take your time so it seals right. Don't forget to plug the motor back in and make everything tight. Test the motor before you put everything back together.
I hope this helps someone. Also if someone wants to chime in and tell us how to completely remove the metal panel or unhook the door lock actuator rod correctly so as not to break it that would be great.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Pflugerville, TX
