Dana 44 swap (one more time)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,330
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From: Waynesboro, PA
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Dana 44 swap (one more time)
OK, we've all seen the question here, and seen both answers. The question is, when doing a Dana 44 swap in an automatic trans Vette, do you need the D44 (manual trans) driveshaft, or can you reuse the auto trans driveshaft? I also heard you NEED the manual trans driveshaft, but have to use the yoke from the old driveshaft to fit in the auto trans. Now, before we get into any name calling and arguments, let me remind you that I've seen all of these answers here from forum members. So, apparently, either way will work. I just want to know which way is right. Basically, is there a difference in tailshaft location (longer/shorter) under the car between the auto and manual trans, or is there a difference in pinion gear location where the driveshaft bolts up, and will the manual shaft yoke fit in the tail of the auto trans. Let's not fight about it, lets just see if anybody has the right answer (if there is one). By the way, didn't all 1984 Corvettes, manual and auto, have the Dana 36? :confused:
Elite Torch Red Member
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
Re: Dana 44 swap (POLOVETTE 94)
In my case, I needed a different yoke. I had a driveshaft from a six speed car, the yoke would not fit in the auto trans. I had to get a yoke to fit the auto trans and the U-joint.
I don't have a part # since someone got the correct part for me.
I don't have a part # since someone got the correct part for me.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Torrance CA
Re: Dana 44 swap (POLOVETTE 94)
Driveshafts from autos and manuals are different lengths.
The support beams are also different lengths.
This is because the Dana 44 is bigger than the Dana 36, and sticks farther forward.
Manual has a thicker tailshaft, so the yolks are different too.
So, you need to get a support beam and driveshaft from a manual car, and swap your auto yolk onto the manual driveshaft.
You can only reuse the auto driveshaft if you have it shortened. Both driveshaft and carrier beam only cost me $150 at the boneyard, so I didn't mess with shortening.
There is no reason anyone should want to debate these facts above, this is such a simple and commonplace swap there isn't much to get confused about.
BUT, if anyone is foolish enough to dispute the fact of the differences between driveshafts, differentials and carrier beams, be forwarned I still have my Dana 36, etc. in my garage and I will shame you with pics of the parts side by side if neccesary.
However I would much rather sit in front of the TV and drink beer so I'll only do it if I don't lose interest in the next five minutes.
Good luck
[Modified by Kevin 88, 12:31 AM 5/19/2002]
The support beams are also different lengths.
This is because the Dana 44 is bigger than the Dana 36, and sticks farther forward.
Manual has a thicker tailshaft, so the yolks are different too.
So, you need to get a support beam and driveshaft from a manual car, and swap your auto yolk onto the manual driveshaft.
You can only reuse the auto driveshaft if you have it shortened. Both driveshaft and carrier beam only cost me $150 at the boneyard, so I didn't mess with shortening.
There is no reason anyone should want to debate these facts above, this is such a simple and commonplace swap there isn't much to get confused about.
BUT, if anyone is foolish enough to dispute the fact of the differences between driveshafts, differentials and carrier beams, be forwarned I still have my Dana 36, etc. in my garage and I will shame you with pics of the parts side by side if neccesary.
However I would much rather sit in front of the TV and drink beer so I'll only do it if I don't lose interest in the next five minutes.
Good luck
[Modified by Kevin 88, 12:31 AM 5/19/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
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From: Mexico Beach FL
Re: Dana 44 swap (POLOVETTE 94)
First, don't just say manual transmission -- the driveshaft, and I believe the support beam, for a 4+3 is different than a six speed.
Here is what I did and it worked perfect:
1) Bought a six speed driveshaft and a six speed support beam -- installed the automatic front yoke on the six speed driveshaft.
2) The early (I think prior to '88) Dana 44, and the Dana 36 for that matter, have strut rod holes in the carrier and cover that are smaller than the later carrier and cover -- since I was putting a '87 Dana 44 with 3.07 gears in my A4 '92, I had to drill the holes larger in the carrier and cover in order to get my strut rod bolts to go through.
It works like a dream.
Tom Piper
Here is what I did and it worked perfect:
1) Bought a six speed driveshaft and a six speed support beam -- installed the automatic front yoke on the six speed driveshaft.
2) The early (I think prior to '88) Dana 44, and the Dana 36 for that matter, have strut rod holes in the carrier and cover that are smaller than the later carrier and cover -- since I was putting a '87 Dana 44 with 3.07 gears in my A4 '92, I had to drill the holes larger in the carrier and cover in order to get my strut rod bolts to go through.
It works like a dream.
Tom Piper
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,391
Likes: 3
From: Chandler AZ
Re: Dana 44 swap (Tom Piper)
Polo, I have also done the swap... a 90 Dana44 into a 85 A4 car. Yes, I know you can use an auto torque arm (or some people call them c-beam). You have to redrill holes on an auto torque arm for it to mate to a Dana44... because the Dana44 longer (fore). The manual tranny torque arm is about an inch shorter than the Dana36... and fits PERFECTLY when swapping a Dana 44 into an A4 car. I refuse to drill holes on a load member so I purchased a manual torque arm. Further, some people have used an auto driveshaft when swapping to a Dana44. The manual tranny driveshaft is about a half inch shorter than the auto version. From what I've been told the auto tranny driveshaft, although it WILL work, is too long to allow the slip yoke to move in and out under heavy load conditions when the frame/body is flexing... i.e.... autocrossing. So, I also purchased a manual tranny driveshaft... and while swapping slip yokes I changed both u-joints as well just as a precaution... and they are cheap. Both the manual tranny torque arm and driveshaft cost me $95 at a local bone yard...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 304
From: Timra, Sweden
Re: Dana 44 swap (POLOVETTE 94)
I reused the driveshaft and modified the C-Beam with new mounting holes.
On mine the shaft fit once in place, but I have to unbolt the C-beam and lower the rear of the tranny a bit to get the driveshaft in place. A shorter driveshaft would make it a bit easier.
On mine the shaft fit once in place, but I have to unbolt the C-beam and lower the rear of the tranny a bit to get the driveshaft in place. A shorter driveshaft would make it a bit easier.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 2
From: Douglasville GA
Re: Dana 44 swap (POLOVETTE 94)
POLOVETTE 94,
If you want to do it the way the factory would do it, or, to do it in the absolute least bubba way...
From your forum name, assuming you have a 94, use a driveshaft and torque beam from a 6 speed car. You will need to transplant your auto transmission yoke in place of the yoke from the 6 speed driveshaft. (if the 6 speed yoke is in great condition - sell it to me)
Also, when doing the Dana 44 swap, you need a later model Dana 44, as someone above stated the holes where the camber rod mounts mate to the diff are larger on the post 88? cars.
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 96 ZF6 and 96 Dana 44
If you want to do it the way the factory would do it, or, to do it in the absolute least bubba way...
From your forum name, assuming you have a 94, use a driveshaft and torque beam from a 6 speed car. You will need to transplant your auto transmission yoke in place of the yoke from the 6 speed driveshaft. (if the 6 speed yoke is in great condition - sell it to me)
Also, when doing the Dana 44 swap, you need a later model Dana 44, as someone above stated the holes where the camber rod mounts mate to the diff are larger on the post 88? cars.
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 96 ZF6 and 96 Dana 44
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 26,679
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From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
Re: Dana 44 swap (tommelton)
OK this is what I did. I looked at how JoBy did it and figured I could use an auto driveshaft and a 6-speed torque tube. Once the tube is in place, it becomes very obvious that an auto driveshaft won't fit. I figured it worked on Joby's car because he drilled the holes a little further forward which in effect "pries" the trans from the diff. The auto driveshaft WILL work with a 6-spd arm but you have to modify it. I noticed that it wouldn't slide up onto the tailshaft far enough because the splines on the tailshaft end and won't allow the yolk to move up far enough. I took a die grinder with a carbide burr and buzzed off the first 1/2" or so of the inside of the yolk's splines. This allowed the driveshaft to slide up far enough to get it in there and still have freeplay. It has been this way for a few thousand miles now with no problems.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 304
From: Timra, Sweden
Re: Dana 44 swap (Fastguy)
I didn't "prie" the tranny and diff apart. I drilled the holes where they were.
I got a driveshaft with the rear end I bought, but It must have been from an auto because it was the same length as the one that was on my car.
I did not want to wait for another driveshaft so I tried the one I had, and as you said it would not slip into the tranny far enough to get it in place over the diff yoke.
I unbolted the tourqe tube from the tranny and let the rear of the tranny drop down an inch or two. That gave me enough room to get the rear u-joint on place. Then I lifted the trany back up and bolted it to the tourqe tube again.
Modifying the yoke like you did would make it easier to replace in the future.
[Modified by JoBy, 4:02 PM 5/21/2002]
I got a driveshaft with the rear end I bought, but It must have been from an auto because it was the same length as the one that was on my car.
I did not want to wait for another driveshaft so I tried the one I had, and as you said it would not slip into the tranny far enough to get it in place over the diff yoke.
I unbolted the tourqe tube from the tranny and let the rear of the tranny drop down an inch or two. That gave me enough room to get the rear u-joint on place. Then I lifted the trany back up and bolted it to the tourqe tube again.
Modifying the yoke like you did would make it easier to replace in the future.
[Modified by JoBy, 4:02 PM 5/21/2002]
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 26,679
Likes: 17
From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
Re: Dana 44 swap (JoBy)
I didn't "prie" the tranny and diff apart. I drilled the holes where they were.
you said it would not slip into the tranny far enough to get it in place over the diff yoke.
I unbolted the tourqe tube from the tranny and let the rear of the tranny drop down an inch or two. That gave me enough room to get the rear u-joint on place. Then I lifted the trany back up and bolted it to the tourqe tube again.
Modifying the yoke like you did would make it easier to replace in the future.
[Modified by JoBy, 4:02 PM 5/21/2002]
you said it would not slip into the tranny far enough to get it in place over the diff yoke.
I unbolted the tourqe tube from the tranny and let the rear of the tranny drop down an inch or two. That gave me enough room to get the rear u-joint on place. Then I lifted the trany back up and bolted it to the tourqe tube again.
Modifying the yoke like you did would make it easier to replace in the future.
[Modified by JoBy, 4:02 PM 5/21/2002]
