Frequency of oil changes
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
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Frequency of oil changes
I apologize if this question has been asked and answered, but how frequently should the oil be changed if the car sits in the garage on a battery tender and rarely driven? I use Mobil 1. Last oil change was 4 years ago. Thanks.
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I don't know about the interval for a car that is rarely driven like that but I would humbly suggest that on the occasions that you do start it that you make sure the oil gets above 200 degrees or so for long enough to evaporate the fuel and water that will be in the oil.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
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I don't know about the interval for a car that is rarely driven like that but I would humbly suggest that on the occasions that you do start it that you make sure the oil gets above 200 degrees or so for long enough to evaporate the fuel and water that will be in the oil.
But I thought the temp should be around 224. When runnin/drivin normally, I change it every 2000 miles.
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I don't know about the interval for a car that is rarely driven like that but I would humbly suggest that on the occasions that you do start it that you make sure the oil gets above 200 degrees or so for long enough to evaporate the fuel and water that will be in the oil.
x2Start the car every coupe of months and let it run for about 20 minutes. This will help to burn off any moisture/condensation in the engine and the exhaust system. It will also help to keep the seals and gaskets from drying out and leaking. Any moisture in the exhaust system will be removed and that helps to keep rust and corrosion from forming. By doing this, you should probably do an oil change and replace the filter every two years.
Also, make sure the gas tank is full and you add a gas stablizer like Sta-Bil. A full gas tank keeps moisture to a minimum.
If it's at all possible, drive the car for some distance even if it's only 20 miles or so. If the car has an automatic trans, that helps in keeping seals from drying out and insures that everything works.
Running the engine can also help the cooling system. Hoses can dry up and crack, the t-stat can stick, and the rubber seal in the radiator cap can dry up. Oil temps should usually be 10-20 degrees above coolant temps when driving so driving the car may be better overall than just letting it idle for some amount of time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
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x2Start the car every coupe of months and let it run for about 20 minutes. This will help to burn off any moisture/condensation in the engine and the exhaust system. It will also help to keep the seals and gaskets from drying out and leaking. Any moisture in the exhaust system will be removed and that helps to keep rust and corrosion from forming. By doing this, you should probably do an oil change and replace the filter every two years.
Also, make sure the gas tank is full and you add a gas stablizer like Sta-Bil. A full gas tank keeps moisture to a minimum.
If it's at all possible, drive the car for some distance even if it's only 20 miles or so. If the car has an automatic trans, that helps in keeping seals from drying out and insures that everything works.
Running the engine can also help the cooling system. Hoses can dry up and crack, the t-stat can stick, and the rubber seal in the radiator cap can dry up. Oil temps should usually be 10-20 degrees above coolant temps when driving so driving the car may be better overall than just letting it idle for some amount of time.
Lets not forget that having a car sit too long does more damage than anything, those seals and gasgets dry up and cause leaks that may or may not stop when the car gets hot again. I always run my car when it sits too long. The last thing you want is everything to start dripping and having to drop pans or pumps or worse, seals you can't easily change. Don't want varnish on those injectors as well.
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OTOH, if it sits long enough, draining the oil is recommend. Or, at least changing it to new oil before it sits.
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I disagree with running a few minutes, this creates the dreaded moisture everyone is afraid of. Shut the engine off hot after a good run, this is the time all the moisture has evaporated. Then let it sit until you use it again. As for changing the oil, I finally changed the oil in my Corvair last fall, previously it was changed, summer 1985. The oil had about 1,000 miles on it and looked like new. I never fill the fuel tank either, this way I can add fresh fuel when the car is put in service. No moisture problems in a stable environment, museum.
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It needs to be heated for at least 20 minutes after warmed up, oil temp around 200sh. So, drive the damn thing with AC on to help oil temp get up to temp and maintain it for at least 20 minutes prior to shutting down. This will boil off the contaminents, water etc.
But, you should change it at least once a year.
But, you should change it at least once a year.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
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It needs to be heated for at least 20 minutes after warmed up, oil temp around 200sh. So, drive the damn thing with AC on to help oil temp get up to temp and maintain it for at least 20 minutes prior to shutting down. This will boil off the contaminents, water etc.
But, you should change it at least once a year.
But, you should change it at least once a year.
I'm already looking to change it, I use Syntec-Edge 10/40 with Lucas by the way, if it means anything to anyone.
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Everyone else. Your call. 3000 miles, 10000 miles. How do you really know. I do oil analysis on my oils to see how good they are compared to what the were when new. Oil is very good today, better than 40 years ago.
Burning Brakes
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Garage queens-6 to 12 months due to oil sitting in crankcase not being used while driving.
Everyone else. Your call. 3000 miles, 10000 miles. How do you really know. I do oil analysis on my oils to see how good they are compared to what the were when new. Oil is very good today, better than 40 years ago.
Everyone else. Your call. 3000 miles, 10000 miles. How do you really know. I do oil analysis on my oils to see how good they are compared to what the were when new. Oil is very good today, better than 40 years ago.
I agree
In the 6 months I've had my car, not only did I find the time to put 2k on it, I also did all the work I listed in "My Garage" to it. I was out "Hazing the meats" the other night, and if the car didn't need all the work I've done so far, I probably would've put about 5 or 6k on it by now
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Garage Queen Vettes should have 4cyl or V6 in it. Who cares? You dont need performance you only need an empty garage, detailer spray and a car cover.
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I hope GM is reading this thread, a RPO for potential Garage Queeners buyers would be something new and affordable.
Like the 95 spare tire delete option -$50, the GQ1 -$2,000 with the Camaro V6 3.6L engine. Back on our generation it would have been the inline 5 cylinder (RPO C4C).
Burning Brakes
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Garage Queen Vettes should have 4cyl or V6 in it. Who cares? You dont need performance you only need an empty garage, detailer spray and a car cover.
I hope GM is reading this thread, a RPO for potential Garage Queeners buyers would be something new and affordable.
Like the 95 spare tire delete option -$50, the GQ1 -$2,000 with the Camaro V6 3.6L engine. Back on our generation it would have been the inline 5 cylinder (RPO C4C).
I hope GM is reading this thread, a RPO for potential Garage Queeners buyers would be something new and affordable.
Like the 95 spare tire delete option -$50, the GQ1 -$2,000 with the Camaro V6 3.6L engine. Back on our generation it would have been the inline 5 cylinder (RPO C4C).
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