C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

L-98 torque converter preference?

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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Default L-98 torque converter preference?

The C5 guys like the small diameter Vigilante converters a lot so I was wondering if there is any similar consensus for the L-98 cars.

I'm not in the market anytime soon (unless my trans grenades unexpectedly), but I'm thinking of the future.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:42 PM
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Default Smaller converter

I don't know the number or a name but I'm told the converter used in the Chevy Astro van works quite well with a "built" C4 auto trans.
JD
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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I have a pair of 9.5" Vigilante converters that I have been using for a long time. A thousand full throttle lockups and no hiccups.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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I like the idea of the smaller diameter converters becasue they are much more efficient. Also the aftermarkter ones are typically better suited to a "performance" build than a production piece.

Last edited by mcm95403; Apr 11, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:22 AM
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I just put a 10" 3200 rpm stall in mine and the difference is quite amazing - it really hauls azz from a standing start now !
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:27 AM
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I've used 2800 stall 9.5" Edge Racing in my old bolt on L98. I felt it was a GREAT match for that cars power band. With TPI it had a shorter powerband but with the HSR intake, i extended my rpm range about 800 rpm. Really picked up performance. 2800 matched it well. 1.70-1.71 60 foots with just 250whp/315wtq. Car ran hard for the bolt ons.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:52 AM
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3 transmission failures due to TCI torque converter clutch failures, I finally learned. Stay away from anything from Comp. TCI converters are junk. Get yourself a real converter and get a Precision. Yup, send them back to TCI, they are guaranteed, they fix them for $75. Then they just fail again. Every time a converter fails, it takes out your trans, big expense...
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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With my 383 I leave 20 foot black marks every time i push the pedal down more then 3/4 from a stop.

so i have to ask myself (and you guys) is there a reason to upgrade the converter without finding a way to hook the power up better?

The only way i can leave the light hard without a smokey burnout is to start out in second gear.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rbates74
With my 383 I leave 20 foot black marks every time i push the pedal down more then 3/4 from a stop.

so i have to ask myself (and you guys) is there a reason to upgrade the converter without finding a way to hook the power up better?

The only way i can leave the light hard without a smokey burnout is to start out in second gear.
In that case, you need a tighter converter or you need to get rid of the bicycle tires.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jd2
I don't know the number or a name but I'm told the converter used in the Chevy Astro van works quite well with a "built" C4 auto trans.
JD
I think the GM 4.3v6 700r4 uses the same converter stall as the vettes 700r4.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
In that case, you need a tighter converter or you need to get rid of the bicycle tires.
please define "tighter"

tires look pretty beefy to me, but they are just stock size
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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On the street, converters can make it harder to hook. Dont expect to hook up in first gear on the street with full throttle from just about any motor and any tire combination. The surfaces just wont allow it. Prepped surface at a track is different story.

From a roll, they make goin WOT much more enjoyable since the motor is in the powerband depending on the gear you start in. It also helps on gear shifts in that keeps rpms from dropping to low. My LS1 car picked up 2 tenths and 2 mph in the 1/8 mile just by going to 3200 stall over stock on street tires when doing same 60 foots. The higher stall didnt lose as much rpm between shifts and thus gave me more average power down the track.
Once added some drag radials and in better weather, 60 foots went from 2.0's on street tires/stock stall to 1.6's on radials with 3200 stall. 4 tenths in 60 foot, and I seen 0.8-1.0 second off my 1/8 mile time alone! Huge difference in being able to launch at full throttle and hook.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:23 PM
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I have a Vigilante 2600, but seems a bit higher. Anyway, the performance gain from a stop is huge and quite fun based on my experience. Laying rubber is ridiculously easy, but using drag radials allows me to take off quite nicely. I can say though that for everyday driving it tends to get bothersome riding around at 2600 (or higher) rpms at speeds that don't allow the convertor to lockup. The gas consumption in these conditions is horrific. If I am in light traffic anywhere above approx 42 mph or on the highway, it locks up and mileage is much, much better.
Bottom line is it is much more fun to drive fast, but around town in congestion, not so much. But I would never go back to a stock convertor

ps- budget for a trans cooler too...the trans will generate more heat with the higher stall. I have one and my original stock trans (140k) is still kicking after years of unnecessary abuse
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rbates74
please define "tighter"

tires look pretty beefy to me, but they are just stock size
I was just messing with you. A tighter converter will have less torque multiplication (less umph off the line). For someone who is blowing away the tires, a tight converter will help solve that problem. It usually will mean slower elapsed times at the track.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:33 PM
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Sorry, I like costly smelly smoke.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rbates74
Sorry, I like costly smelly smoke.
You mean this?

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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
You mean this?

Thats it exactly. though ive never done it at the strip.
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