HELP ! motor swap problems
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Joined: Apr 2012
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HELP ! motor swap problems
well i accidentally grounded the starter wires and i beleive i have blown my fusible links but i just replaced them with inline 20 amp fuses and had no luck. i have no dash lights no radio no wipers no start. i have interior lights headlights taillights. im just no longer sure what to do next
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 810
Likes: 58
From: Alva Florida
Well, first I'd get a FSM wiring diagram, and check that you have battery power to the starter from the battery. if ok,
Then see if you jump the solenoid it will bump the engine. if ok,
Then check to see if there is power to the ignition switch, if ok
Then check power to the other side of the switch, if ok
Then check if the power makes it to the starter solenoid, if ok
Look at the starting sequence in the Service Manual and see what could be the problem. Things like security, safety switches, and computer activated functions come to mind.
I'm sure others are better than I on this forum, but I hope this is a start.
Good Luck
Then see if you jump the solenoid it will bump the engine. if ok,
Then check to see if there is power to the ignition switch, if ok
Then check power to the other side of the switch, if ok
Then check if the power makes it to the starter solenoid, if ok
Look at the starting sequence in the Service Manual and see what could be the problem. Things like security, safety switches, and computer activated functions come to mind.
I'm sure others are better than I on this forum, but I hope this is a start.
Good Luck
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alright well ive gotten past the fusible links now. engine is timed and oil pressure switch put in (realized i missed that the first time i started and put it in after) now the problem i am having is the fuel to injectors seems to be getting cut off after about 5 seconds maybe about 10 if i give a bit of gas. another problem is the engine is brand new and hasnt been broken in yet. is there any specific break in procedures other than running for half an hour change the oil and run for another 500km and oil change?
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Also the only sensor that is not in the engine is oil temp because i couldnt get the blockoff screw out -_- there is also an electrical apparatus of some sort bolted to the intake by the distributor. one wire in one side with brown connector and single wire out the other to two brown single wire connectors. Could this be what is causing my rpm gauge from not working, all of the other gauges are back
EDIT ::: this is the 84 crossfire injection with a silver night turn-key package chevy 350 2 bolt main. NOT broken in yet http://www.phoenixmusclecar.com/Chevy-25.html
EDIT ::: this is the 84 crossfire injection with a silver night turn-key package chevy 350 2 bolt main. NOT broken in yet http://www.phoenixmusclecar.com/Chevy-25.html
Last edited by infernoman; Apr 21, 2012 at 10:03 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
( or even year model .Essential when asking questions as not all years the same)
Depends what style cam you have ; roller or flat tappet.
Completely different break in requirements on each
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1984 corvette with cross fire intake and fuel injection with a 350 small block witch is suppossed to have hydraulic rollers but has flat tappet. the engine is a silver night turn key package picked up from phoenix engines which had the power 2 package and was suppossed to be primed with oil and also was not. They knew what the engine was for but didnt send the proper crank pulley or water pump. And did not inform me of the 168 tooth flexplate which i needed a different starter for. http://www.phoenixmusclecar.com/Chevy-25.html is the engine
Last edited by infernoman; Apr 21, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 810
Likes: 58
From: Alva Florida
Sounds like the oil pressure switch. It is behind the intake. It is a switch that kills power to the fuel pump if oil pressure goes lower than (I think) 5 psi. If you are in an accident you will appreciate this safety feature. Try to jump the switch with a wire with a spade connector on each end. Make sure it's connected in the immediate future.
Break-in (flat tappet): Get a bottle of zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines. I personally use 2 bottles for break in. Get the engine started, and try to get the timing to a decent position by ear for now (engine should not struggle to run/start). Then immediately get it up to 2500 rpms. Hold it there for couple of minutes. This process helps polish the lobes, and mates the lifters and cams lobes together. Then for the next 20 minutes vary the engine speed from 2000-3500 rpms, never shutting down if you can help it. You should have someone there to help because it is rare that things wont happen. Water leaks, overheating, fires (exhaust is very hot), and oil leaks are very common, and you need to be watching everything. Then set the timing, and change the oil. You will need the zinc additive with every oil change with a flat tappet engine or you will wipe the cam lobes.
Break-in (flat tappet): Get a bottle of zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines. I personally use 2 bottles for break in. Get the engine started, and try to get the timing to a decent position by ear for now (engine should not struggle to run/start). Then immediately get it up to 2500 rpms. Hold it there for couple of minutes. This process helps polish the lobes, and mates the lifters and cams lobes together. Then for the next 20 minutes vary the engine speed from 2000-3500 rpms, never shutting down if you can help it. You should have someone there to help because it is rare that things wont happen. Water leaks, overheating, fires (exhaust is very hot), and oil leaks are very common, and you need to be watching everything. Then set the timing, and change the oil. You will need the zinc additive with every oil change with a flat tappet engine or you will wipe the cam lobes.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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im going to go back today again to check it out aswell. but yesterday after i noticed i had the oil pressure switch unhooked. I reinstalled it got the pressure in the gauge reading but i still have no fuel. my next guess is to put the fuel pump on a switch and wire it to the battery? any other suggestions?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,736
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From: WAY UPSTATE NY
Sounds like the oil pressure switch. It is behind the intake. It is a switch that kills power to the fuel pump if oil pressure goes lower than (I think) 5 psi. If you are in an accident you will appreciate this safety feature. Try to jump the switch with a wire with a spade connector on each end. Make sure it's connected in the immediate future.
Break-in (flat tappet): Get a bottle of zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines. I personally use 2 bottles for break in. Get the engine started, and try to get the timing to a decent position by ear for now (engine should not struggle to run/start). Then immediately get it up to 2500 rpms. Hold it there for couple of minutes. This process helps polish the lobes, and mates the lifters and cams lobes together. Then for the next 20 minutes vary the engine speed from 2000-3500 rpms, never shutting down if you can help it. You should have someone there to help because it is rare that things wont happen. Water leaks, overheating, fires (exhaust is very hot), and oil leaks are very common, and you need to be watching everything. Then set the timing, and change the oil. You will need the zinc additive with every oil change with a flat tappet engine or you will wipe the cam lobes.
Break-in (flat tappet): Get a bottle of zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines. I personally use 2 bottles for break in. Get the engine started, and try to get the timing to a decent position by ear for now (engine should not struggle to run/start). Then immediately get it up to 2500 rpms. Hold it there for couple of minutes. This process helps polish the lobes, and mates the lifters and cams lobes together. Then for the next 20 minutes vary the engine speed from 2000-3500 rpms, never shutting down if you can help it. You should have someone there to help because it is rare that things wont happen. Water leaks, overheating, fires (exhaust is very hot), and oil leaks are very common, and you need to be watching everything. Then set the timing, and change the oil. You will need the zinc additive with every oil change with a flat tappet engine or you will wipe the cam lobes.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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alright that makes a bit more sense now. could someone by chance put up a picture of the differences of hydraulic and flat tappet cams and lifters? on the engine prefferably so i have something to clarify. at the moment i have no zinc additive no idea where to get it as my local part source and canadian tire do not carry anything like that any more.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Flat tappets are also hydralic.
What is being discussed is roller or flat tappet.
A FT lifter is just that ; flat at bottom where a roller lifter has a wheel .
See
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...am_Profile.JPG
You will have to pull a lifter out and it will be obvious
Run diesel oil ; still high in zinc
What is being discussed is roller or flat tappet.
A FT lifter is just that ; flat at bottom where a roller lifter has a wheel .
See
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...am_Profile.JPG
You will have to pull a lifter out and it will be obvious
Run diesel oil ; still high in zinc
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 810
Likes: 58
From: Alva Florida
False info....The switch allows the fuel pump to run when oil pressure reaches 4 or 5 PSI, in case of relay failure.Don't want to steer the guy in the wrong direction.
Sorry, I guess I had it backwards. Thanks for clarifying.
You should see fuel pressure at the rail (not sure about where on an '84 though). If you have a gauge you can test that. Are you sure your injectors are firing?
Refer to a FSM, or search the forum to troubleshoot.
You need to fix the fuel problem prior to firing (as if you didn't know that). Could be a relay, or the pump maybe.
You can try to hot wire the fuel pump for diagnosis purposes, but be sure to find the problem prior to driving. Safety first.
Sorry, I guess I had it backwards. Thanks for clarifying.
You should see fuel pressure at the rail (not sure about where on an '84 though). If you have a gauge you can test that. Are you sure your injectors are firing?
Refer to a FSM, or search the forum to troubleshoot.
You need to fix the fuel problem prior to firing (as if you didn't know that). Could be a relay, or the pump maybe.
You can try to hot wire the fuel pump for diagnosis purposes, but be sure to find the problem prior to driving. Safety first.
