Brake/rotor question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
Brake/rotor question
I just finished doing new u-joints, wheel bearings, tie rods on my LT4. I am going to have the calipers powder coated and I will be buying new EBC rotors and pads. I want to get it back on the road now and I wont be doing the brakes for a bit do to having to rebuild after powder coating so should I just put the old rotor on with the old pads or should I clean up the rotor first and if I clean the rotor, do I then need new pads? These are the rear brakes and the braking system worked fine. The rotors are in good condition, I could just buy some middle of the road pads and clean up the rotors but I don't want to spend money since I will be doing it down the road. what do you guys suggest. Thanks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
another question I have is: are the rear brake calipers any different on an LT4 than the LT1 or 96's from other years. I want to buy someones used calipers so I can take them apart, clean them up, powder coat them and then rebuild them. Then I can just replace them with the ones on there now without any downtime. Hopefully then I can sell mine and recoup a little bit. My rear calipers are single piston. I have not yet autocrossed but I would like to at some point so I don't know if I need to upgrade since I am going through the trouble. Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
I just finished doing new u-joints, wheel bearings, tie rods on my LT4. I am going to have the calipers powder coated and I will be buying new EBC rotors and pads. I want to get it back on the road now and I wont be doing the brakes for a bit do to having to rebuild after powder coating so should I just put the old rotor on with the old pads or should I clean up the rotor first and if I clean the rotor, do I then need new pads? These are the rear brakes and the braking system worked fine. The rotors are in good condition, I could just buy some middle of the road pads and clean up the rotors but I don't want to spend money since I will be doing it down the road. what do you guys suggest. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
As far as the rear calipers, they are the same for all 88-96 cars so getting an extra pair of rear calipers will help with the powdercoating work.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
How difficult is the removing and rebuilding process for the calipers? The piston and rubber boot etc? I have never done it, I have the fsm but I am a bit worried about doing this myself. also, the parking does not work, all the levers and wires move and look like they do what they should. They are all in good condition. I think I need to make an adjustment at the caliper so I figured new hardware should also help that when I rebuild. Thanks for the info. If anyone has some rear calipers they want to sell, let me know. I could not find any at corvette recycle, which was weird. They only had the front ones.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
How difficult is the removing and rebuilding process for the calipers? The piston and rubber boot etc? I have never done it, I have the fsm but I am a bit worried about doing this myself. also, the parking does not work, all the levers and wires move and look like they do what they should. They are all in good condition. I think I need to make an adjustment at the caliper so I figured new hardware should also help that when I rebuild. Thanks for the info. If anyone has some rear calipers they want to sell, let me know. I could not find any at corvette recycle, which was weird. They only had the front ones.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 849
Likes: 1
From: Shelbyville IN
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
There is a left and right side. The OEM calipers may not be marked L or R but the part numbers are different. Same with the caliper abutment (mounting) brackets; there is a left and right.
As far as rebuilding the calipers, IMHO, it would be easier to simply buy remanufactured calipers and use those caliper bodies to have powdercoated. Most reman calipers come with new boots, pistons and seals, and all of the internal passages are cleaned out. You also get new bleed screws. The only down side is that most companies want your old calipers back so you won't have to pay the core charge.
When you do go to reinstall the new calipers, get new guide pins and boots. Clean out the holes in the mounting brackets and apply new grease. The bolts can be re-used. Clean off the old threadlocker and apply a light amount of Loctite Blue. Same with the caliper mounting bracket bolts. Re-use those too. The FSM will have the proper torque specs.
The FSM will also have a procedure for adjusting the parking brake.
As far as rebuilding the calipers, IMHO, it would be easier to simply buy remanufactured calipers and use those caliper bodies to have powdercoated. Most reman calipers come with new boots, pistons and seals, and all of the internal passages are cleaned out. You also get new bleed screws. The only down side is that most companies want your old calipers back so you won't have to pay the core charge.
When you do go to reinstall the new calipers, get new guide pins and boots. Clean out the holes in the mounting brackets and apply new grease. The bolts can be re-used. Clean off the old threadlocker and apply a light amount of Loctite Blue. Same with the caliper mounting bracket bolts. Re-use those too. The FSM will have the proper torque specs.
The FSM will also have a procedure for adjusting the parking brake.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
There is a left and right side. The OEM calipers may not be marked L or R but the part numbers are different. Same with the caliper abutment (mounting) brackets; there is a left and right.
As far as rebuilding the calipers, IMHO, it would be easier to simply buy remanufactured calipers and use those caliper bodies to have powdercoated. Most reman calipers come with new boots, pistons and seals, and all of the internal passages are cleaned out. You also get new bleed screws. The only down side is that most companies want your old calipers back so you won't have to pay the core charge.
When you do go to reinstall the new calipers, get new guide pins and boots. Clean out the holes in the mounting brackets and apply new grease. The bolts can be re-used. Clean off the old threadlocker and apply a light amount of Loctite Blue. Same with the caliper mounting bracket bolts. Re-use those too. The FSM will have the proper torque specs.
The FSM will also have a procedure for adjusting the parking brake.
As far as rebuilding the calipers, IMHO, it would be easier to simply buy remanufactured calipers and use those caliper bodies to have powdercoated. Most reman calipers come with new boots, pistons and seals, and all of the internal passages are cleaned out. You also get new bleed screws. The only down side is that most companies want your old calipers back so you won't have to pay the core charge.
When you do go to reinstall the new calipers, get new guide pins and boots. Clean out the holes in the mounting brackets and apply new grease. The bolts can be re-used. Clean off the old threadlocker and apply a light amount of Loctite Blue. Same with the caliper mounting bracket bolts. Re-use those too. The FSM will have the proper torque specs.
The FSM will also have a procedure for adjusting the parking brake.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
This is required anytime you rebuild or replace a caliper.
In the photo; is were you check the brake lever free play. This is kind of involved, and requires two people. There is a 6mm x 16mm set screw on the inboard side of the caliper...I think opposite of the brake lever, that either screws in or out to adjust the free play, once you figure this out and "if" an adjustment is required apply blue thread locker to the set screw before making the final adjustment. Use your FSM for the procedure.
If this adjustment is incorrect you will either drag the brake or have very little parking brake...for what it's worth! our parking brakes aren't the best to begin with.
In the photo; is were you check the brake lever free play. This is kind of involved, and requires two people. There is a 6mm x 16mm set screw on the inboard side of the caliper...I think opposite of the brake lever, that either screws in or out to adjust the free play, once you figure this out and "if" an adjustment is required apply blue thread locker to the set screw before making the final adjustment. Use your FSM for the procedure.
If this adjustment is incorrect you will either drag the brake or have very little parking brake...for what it's worth! our parking brakes aren't the best to begin with.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
This is required anytime you rebuild or replace a caliper.
In the photo; is were you check the brake lever free play. This is kind of involved, and requires two people. There is a 6mm x 16mm set screw on the inboard side of the caliper...I think opposite of the brake lever, that either screws in or out to adjust the free play, once you figure this out and "if" an adjustment is required apply blue thread locker to the set screw before making the final adjustment. Use your FSM for the procedure.
If this adjustment is incorrect you will either drag the brake or have very little parking brake...for what it's worth! our parking brakes aren't the best to begin with.
In the photo; is were you check the brake lever free play. This is kind of involved, and requires two people. There is a 6mm x 16mm set screw on the inboard side of the caliper...I think opposite of the brake lever, that either screws in or out to adjust the free play, once you figure this out and "if" an adjustment is required apply blue thread locker to the set screw before making the final adjustment. Use your FSM for the procedure.
If this adjustment is incorrect you will either drag the brake or have very little parking brake...for what it's worth! our parking brakes aren't the best to begin with.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
In order to powder coat the calipers I have to disassemble. I don't think you can powder coat them with the piston and rubber boots and everything on them so thats what I am not comfortable doing. If I bought remaned I would have to take them apart, have them powder coated and then put them back together. Am I correct about this? I figured just buying someones old calipers would be cheaper and then I could learn a bit when I take them apart so hopefully I can put them back together after they are powder coated. I would just buy a new rebuild kit. what do you think? Any powder coaters out there that would powder coat my calipers and then rebuild them for me. That would be the best scenario. Thanks
You have to completely disassemble the caliper for powdercoating and they can't have any grease or oil/fluid present. There has to be some sort of plug for every hole in the caliper (Eastwood sells plug kits made for powdercoating)
Installing a rebuild kit is fairly simple to do, but the piston bore has to be smooth and free of any pitting or corrosion. Some caliper piston bores can be so bad that a sleeve must be installed. That requires machining. One reason why reman calipers are the way to go especially if you are removing the original calipers.
You didn't say what color you are looking at, but have you considered caliper paint? DupliColor has 4 different colors in kit form and you might even be able to use engine paint.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
There was a CF member that did that work and he offered just about any color. IIRC, he was an airline pilot.
You have to completely disassemble the caliper for powdercoating and they can't have any grease or oil/fluid present. There has to be some sort of plug for every hole in the caliper (Eastwood sells plug kits made for powdercoating)
Installing a rebuild kit is fairly simple to do, but the piston bore has to be smooth and free of any pitting or corrosion. Some caliper piston bores can be so bad that a sleeve must be installed. That requires machining. One reason why reman calipers are the way to go especially if you are removing the original calipers.
You didn't say what color you are looking at, but have you considered caliper paint? DupliColor has 4 different colors in kit form and you might even be able to use engine paint.
You have to completely disassemble the caliper for powdercoating and they can't have any grease or oil/fluid present. There has to be some sort of plug for every hole in the caliper (Eastwood sells plug kits made for powdercoating)
Installing a rebuild kit is fairly simple to do, but the piston bore has to be smooth and free of any pitting or corrosion. Some caliper piston bores can be so bad that a sleeve must be installed. That requires machining. One reason why reman calipers are the way to go especially if you are removing the original calipers.
You didn't say what color you are looking at, but have you considered caliper paint? DupliColor has 4 different colors in kit form and you might even be able to use engine paint.
