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I am looking to replace the head gaskets and all valve seals etc. on my 1991 l98 engine.
When torqueing down the head I see in the fsm the pattern to use and the torque specification of 67 ft lbs.
However, I read some people torque the head down in 2 or 3 passes. I.E. 30 ft lbs in sequence,then, 50 ft lbs in sequence, and finally 67 ft lbs in sequence.
Anyone who has done this successfully on an l98... Their insight is valued.
Also, I plan to get the heads machined so they are perfectly flat... How much additional can they shave from the head for better compression/performance? And will there be a need to reprogram the computer to compensate for the new compression?
Last edited by Fredbird; Apr 25, 2012 at 02:06 PM.
Reason: additional info.
Your torquing procedure is correct. I do two additional steps, first I pull all bolts down until they are snug, slightly more than finger tight, insures the head is flat on the block. After my final torque I will run all the bolts twice more. I do not know if either of these are really necessary but I haven't lost a head gasket yet. Each time a head is milled the angle at which the intake manifold meets the head changes. I have heard .030 is the limit but am not sure. No, you will not need a tune due to the small increase in compression.
I have never seen or heard of anyone doing that... The FSM doesn't even say anything about doing that.
Is there an experience you've had which led to this suggestion or is this something you've heard?
I'm not trying to sound smart, just want more understanding before I do it.
Retorquing heads was a standard procedure with old head gaskets. Run thru a few heat/cool cycles then retorque the heads. The improvement in gasket technology eliminated this chore. I haven't checked lately but gasket makers used to make a big deal over no retorquing.
I would definitely torque in steps. Start with something light like 20 ft-lbs, then go to 45, then the final, then go over them again at final torque a couple more times.
You don't want to have one bolt super tight and the rest just snug when you start torquing. It just doesn't seem right, at least in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by Muffin
Retorquing heads was a standard procedure with old head gaskets. Run thru a few heat/cool cycles then retorque the heads. The improvement in gasket technology eliminated this chore. I haven't checked lately but gasket makers used to make a big deal over no retorquing.
its old school, but thats the way I learned and I still do it out of habit. The three times I've had the heads off and back on there might have been one head bolt that wasn't quite up to spec. So whats that one out of 60 bolts? Mine sees mostly road course use so the old method lets me sleep at night and not worry about it.
I replaced the head gaskets on my '91 2 years and 20k mi. ago. Fel-Pro 1094 .015" thick steel shim, coated gasket compared to the .050" thick stock gasket. The stock 52k mi. heads were surfaced, and torqued in stages one time with new bolts. The block surface was good.
No problems so far and that includes about 40 trips down the 1/4 mi. and several road trips.
Retorquing heads was a standard procedure with old head gaskets. Run thru a few heat/cool cycles then retorque the heads. The improvement in gasket technology eliminated this chore. I haven't checked lately but gasket makers used to make a big deal over no retorquing.
I know this thread is old but couldnt help but notice the talk of re torque for heads. I would never advise this as most head bolts that are used are tty- torque to yield bolts. If you re torque after running the engine, in other words a heat cycle, you will weaken these bolts and could have head gasket failure down the road... Always best to follow manufacturers instructions.