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1984 Rad replacement

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Old May 7, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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Default 1984 Rad replacement

Hey guys....I have the '84 Vette with the HD radiator (original) and cannot seem to find anyone locally that will clean it..rod it out. So I found this rad online and wanted to get opinions from the group.

http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...aia_id=1041196

Please share your experience or ideas or best place to purchase...

Best Regards;

G

Last edited by GMAN1953; May 8, 2012 at 04:31 AM.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GMAN1953
Hey guys....I have the '84 Vette with the HD radiator (original) and cannot seem to find anyone locally that will clean it..rod it out. So I found this rad online and wanted to get opinions from the group.

http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...aia_id=1041196

Best Regards;

G
Seeing you're gonna buy new, I'd shop around and get a three row for around the same price. That seems pretty steep for a two. Personally, I'd wan't something that has the fluid-level sender opening on it, if possible. I'd take my time and shop around and I'm sure there are people who can steer you in that direction.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
Seeing you're gonna buy new, I'd shop around and get a three row for around the same price. That seems pretty steep for a two. Personally, I'd wan't something that has the fluid-level sender opening on it, if possible. I'd take my time and shop around and I'm sure there are people who can steer you in that direction.
That is why I posted here...wanted the pros opinions...appreciate the reply..

here is a 3 row...
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...ia_id=1041196\

Regards; G
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Old May 7, 2012 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GMAN1953
That is why I posted here...wanted the pros opinions...appreciate the reply..

here is a 3 row...
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...ia_id=1041196\

Regards; G
Hang tight, I'm sure people here have got good rad contacts. My 2 row is fine but I thought of getting a 3, which is the way to go if you gotta change it anyway, you might as well use the opportunity to do a cooling up-grade.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
Hang tight, I'm sure people here have got good rad contacts. My 2 row is fine but I thought of getting a 3, which is the way to go if you gotta change it anyway, you might as well use the opportunity to do a cooling up-grade.
I will...thanks!!!!

G
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Old May 7, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Default I replaced mine a couple of years ago..

When a tank broke on my 85, I called around to several parts places here in Boise. NAPA had a new radiator in stock, and list price was like 100 bucks. I was shocked that they had one, and that it was probably the cheapest thing on the whole car. I don't remember if it was a 2 or a 3 core.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by martymcfly
When a tank broke on my 85, I called around to several parts places here in Boise. NAPA had a new radiator in stock, and list price was like 100 bucks. I was shocked that they had one, and that it was probably the cheapest thing on the whole car. I don't remember if it was a 2 or a 3 core.
Really haven't thought about local auto parts....I should check with Napa and see...thanks for the idea!!!

G
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Old May 8, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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The OEM replacement has in the past sold for ~$100 and without 28 years of scale buildup, works just fine.

My '84 has no "low fluid level sensor" so the OEM that you receive may have the port for that sensor, you'll have to buy they sensor and stick it into the port (hole) and there will be a spade connector with no wire.....
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Old May 8, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
The OEM replacement has in the past sold for ~$100 and without 28 years of scale buildup, works just fine.

My '84 has no "low fluid level sensor" so the OEM that you receive may have the port for that sensor, you'll have to buy they sensor and stick it into the port (hole) and there will be a spade connector with no wire.....
Stopped at NAPA today and they have a replacement rad for $130 guaranteed to fit and perform...just not sure what to do but am sure a new one would be cleaner than my 28 year old one...still looking for all the info I can get... info on NAPA Rad below;

Part Number: NR 2051
Product Line: NAPA Radiators
Attributes:
Comments : Aluminum Core; Plastic Tanks
Engine Oil Cooler Size : None
Radiator Core Size : 23 5/8" x 15" x 1 1/4"
Radiator Inlet Connector Size : 1 5/16"
Radiator Inlet Header Size : 2 3/8" x 16 5/8"
Radiator Make : GM
Radiator Mount Type : Channel
Radiator Outlet Connector Size : 1 5/16"
Radiator Outlet Header Size : 2 3/8" x 16 5/8"
Transmission Oil Cooler Size : Concentric; 11 1/2"
Features and Benefits:
Innovative Engineering, Manufacturing Technology And Quality Control Ensure That Spectra Premium Radiators Meets Or Exceeds The Performance Of The Original Equipment Radiators They Replace. That Extends To All Components, Including Engine And Transmission Oil Coolers.
Maximum Cooling Efficiency
No Modifications Required For Proper Fit
Engineered To Last
Validated For Fit, Form And Function

Regards; G

Last edited by GMAN1953; May 8, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by GMAN1953
Radiator Make : GM
Regards; G
Sounds like you may have an OEM

Just compare it to the one you have in the your care with a visual inspection.....

Look for that port that I described and tranny Lines if applicable....Then stick it in....

Do yourself a favor, when you are taking the top of the fan shroud off to get the radiator, There are holes for your hoses in that shroud, Cut them and make them slots....that way in the future you can take the top of the fan shroud off without having to remove any hoses. You'll thank me later.

The only thing holding that radiator in place is the top fan shroud, so once you get your lines loose, and the lid taken off the thing just lifts out.....easy job....

Don't put tap water back in....ever....

Use distilled or deionized water from here on out.....Can't get scale build up if you never introduce scale forming minerals from the get go....Tap water or water from your garden hose has all kinds of crap in it that forms scale.....

Look for that low coolant sensor and buy the sensor for it as you won't have one....then it just pushes into place....push it in and be done with this project.

Your water pump will go out next....I'll bet you a dozen donuts that it fails this summer if it hasn't already been replaced recently.

Get new hoses and a new thermostat and tackle all that ****......my '84 idles at less than 200° after I replaced all those items...
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Old May 9, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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Default the hard part is...

getting all of the air out of the engine. After I replaced my radiator, I bled it out at the t-stat being that that was the highest point of the cooling system. I let it get hot, then CAREFULLY loosened the hose clamp a little to let the air out. I had to do it a couple of times.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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^^ I never get that.....

You have to run the car until the TS opens for good and then fill the radiator and close the cap and you're done.

The problem lies in the fact that the TS may close up to three times as cool water hits it....so people think they are in full flow when they are not.

You have to run the engine until everything is up to temperature and then fill the radiator......You'll see it when the TS opens and the thing takes a big gulp of water.....

Watch it cycle as the temps come up both in the engine and the radiator...it's not 2 minute job......takes at least 10 minutes....

I've never had to do any of this burping thing that is described.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Sounds like you may have an OEM

Just compare it to the one you have in the your care with a visual inspection.....

Look for that port that I described and tranny Lines if applicable....Then stick it in....

Do yourself a favor, when you are taking the top of the fan shroud off to get the radiator, There are holes for your hoses in that shroud, Cut them and make them slots....that way in the future you can take the top of the fan shroud off without having to remove any hoses. You'll thank me later.

The only thing holding that radiator in place is the top fan shroud, so once you get your lines loose, and the lid taken off the thing just lifts out.....easy job....

Don't put tap water back in....ever....

Use distilled or deionized water from here on out.....Can't get scale build up if you never introduce scale forming minerals from the get go....Tap water or water from your garden hose has all kinds of crap in it that forms scale.....

Look for that low coolant sensor and buy the sensor for it as you won't have one....then it just pushes into place....push it in and be done with this project.

Your water pump will go out next....I'll bet you a dozen donuts that it fails this summer if it hasn't already been replaced recently.

Get new hoses and a new thermostat and tackle all that ****......my '84 idles at less than 200° after I replaced all those items...
I picked the radiator up and it has one or two extra holes that are plugged with plastic ..... not sure if they are meant to stay in place if I don't use them or not...looks like a straight forward job except for maybe getting all the anti freeze out without making a mess..ugh.... and thanks for the tip about cutting the plastic, I'll use my dremel when I get it out.
Best Regards;
G
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Old May 9, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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^^Do you have a 4x3 or automatic tranny?
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Old May 10, 2012 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
^^Do you have a 4x3 or automatic tranny?
Auto....it has two trans lines to radiator...

G
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Old May 10, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Good, just wanted to see if you had taken note of that...and that your new one has the ports
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Old May 10, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Good, just wanted to see if you had taken note of that...and that your new one has the ports
Yes...it does have the two ports for the tranny lines...but also a couple of other plastic plugged ports that I won't need...so can I just leave the plastic plugs in place or will that leak? Thanks for all the HELP!!
Regards; G
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Old May 10, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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you are getting good advice from the brothers here. all I would add is that I lokked at 1000$ radiators for my 88 as I was overheating too. I bought the standard edition 140$ replacement and hoped for the best. the new CLEAN radiator was so good compared to the old one that my overheating was cured. dd
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Old May 11, 2012 | 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by daddog
you are getting good advice from the brothers here. all I would add is that I lokked at 1000$ radiators for my 88 as I was overheating too. I bought the standard edition 140$ replacement and hoped for the best. the new CLEAN radiator was so good compared to the old one that my overheating was cured. dd
Thanks for the update dd...hoping for the same...I've been really busy so haven't started on the change yet

G
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Old May 12, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
The OEM replacement has in the past sold for ~$100 and without 28 years of scale buildup, works just fine.

My '84 has no "low fluid level sensor" so the OEM that you receive may have the port for that sensor, you'll have to buy they sensor and stick it into the port (hole) and there will be a spade connector with no wire.....
The port you speak of...did it have a plastic plug in place when you bought it? Mine has the two trans line ports and another port with a plastic plug...?

Regards; G
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