ZF6 a bit clunky?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Peabody MA
ZF6 a bit clunky?
I've only had my '92 6-spd for 4 days. I notice that when shifting the transmission seems to be kind of noisy and it's sometimes difficult to put in first. Everything seems to be working okay but it's just loud, is this normal for C4s? It has 101k miles, transmission and clutch are the original
Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 725
Likes: 4
From: Plano, TX
The ZF6 in the 92 is probably a black tag made in Germany and has slightly noisier gears than the Blue Tag made in the USA. Good thing for you is the Black Tag's are very durable and are known to handle alot of abuse.
Your car originally had a dual mass flywheel and its possible someone has replaced it with a solid flywheel. This creates additional "rocks in a can" sound when idleing in neutral.
It should be fairly easy to shift into 1st gear. You should check that your clutch hydraulics are working properly.
Also please feel free to search any of these issues and you will find tons of info on your questions.
Hope this helps.
PS: If it is very loud it is also possible that the rubber seal that seals the shifter to the tunnel could have a rip or hole in it allowing road noise in the cockpit.
Your car originally had a dual mass flywheel and its possible someone has replaced it with a solid flywheel. This creates additional "rocks in a can" sound when idleing in neutral.
It should be fairly easy to shift into 1st gear. You should check that your clutch hydraulics are working properly.
Also please feel free to search any of these issues and you will find tons of info on your questions.
Hope this helps.
PS: If it is very loud it is also possible that the rubber seal that seals the shifter to the tunnel could have a rip or hole in it allowing road noise in the cockpit.
Last edited by 93VettePilot; May 24, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Remove ECM (its the box above the battery)
Unscrew the cap on the clutch master (its small and close tot he firewall)
take turkey baster and suck old fluid out
Replace with fresh dot3 brake fluid (I use valvoline syntech)
replace cap
clean up the mess
replace ECM and tighten it down
pump clutch pedal at least 10 times
clutch should release high - maybe an inch of pedal movement
Also if the previous owner has not changed the trans fluid - do it.
Go to the zfdoc's website to see the fuids that work and procedures.
Or do a search here, ther are lots of threads on changing the ZF fluid.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 108
From: Austin Texas
Open hood
Remove ECM (its the box above the battery)
Unscrew the cap on the clutch master (its small and close tot he firewall)
take turkey baster and suck old fluid out
Replace with fresh dot3 brake fluid (I use valvoline syntech)
replace cap
clean up the mess
replace ECM and tighten it down
pump clutch pedal at least 10 times
clutch should release high - maybe an inch of pedal movement
Also if the previous owner has not changed the trans fluid - do it.
Go to the zfdoc's website to see the fuids that work and procedures.
Or do a search here, ther are lots of threads on changing the ZF fluid.
Remove ECM (its the box above the battery)
Unscrew the cap on the clutch master (its small and close tot he firewall)
take turkey baster and suck old fluid out
Replace with fresh dot3 brake fluid (I use valvoline syntech)
replace cap
clean up the mess
replace ECM and tighten it down
pump clutch pedal at least 10 times
clutch should release high - maybe an inch of pedal movement
Also if the previous owner has not changed the trans fluid - do it.
Go to the zfdoc's website to see the fuids that work and procedures.
Or do a search here, ther are lots of threads on changing the ZF fluid.
You'd be surprised how many people religiously change engine oil but completely forget the transmission.
I change my ZF fluid out every few years when normal use, and yearly when I race it. It flushes out all the wear particles that can cause the synchros to not mesh.
I agree with the clutch fluids as well...I'll bet it looks like Coke inside the clutch master...
