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Flexalite Cooler with fan Install help (wiring)

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Old May 27, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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Default Flexalite Cooler with fan Install help (wiring)

Hi guys , it's about time to install my transmission cooler upgrade
i'm jumping from B&M's 70264 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70264/

to the bigger heavy duty Flexalite 45956
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-45956/

My problem is the wiring :
Here is a picture for the 4595X models

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Black + POS wire is already plugged into the single connector.
No problem for the ground (Red wire) (not sure why they
use red as negative and black as positive)

Here is my doubt :

"Run another wire from an ignition switched 15A POS+
power source to either of the two connectors at arrow 2.
An electrical relay and a 15A Slowblow fuse are recommended on the POS side"

What's a good ignition switched source around the front of the car?
i will install the cooler in front of the radiator,where is the B&M now.


I will run an inline small fuse box and wire with the 15A in place.
But the electrical relay ? How can i do that and what's the function of it ???

Thanks !


As a point apart :

I succesfully installed a B&M Trans Temp gauge tapping on the Cigarrete lighter positive wire to later find out that the wire is powered all the time! Will that gauge drain my battery ? I'm planning to swap the wire to the ignition wire (any pictures of this wire?) Thanks !

Last edited by Calderone; May 27, 2012 at 08:45 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:13 PM
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Calde they are suggesting you use a Relay. I would if I were you. A relay sounds complex but its just an electrical switch basically.
On my 90 there is a couple of posts next to the battery that feed the car. I'm guessing yours is similar for the most part any Pink wire coming from that area is a "switched" wire easy to test. Turn your ignition on and test a wire. If its hot when the ignition is on and not when its off you have found a good wire. Then use this wire as the trigger for your relay.
Maybe this will help:

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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
Calde they are suggesting you use a Relay. I would if I were you. A relay sounds complex but its just an electrical switch basically.
On my 90 there is a couple of posts next to the battery that feed the car. I'm guessing yours is similar for the most part any Pink wire coming from that area is a "switched" wire easy to test. Turn your ignition on and test a wire. If its hot when the ignition is on and not when its off you have found a good wire. Then use this wire as the trigger for your relay.
Maybe this will help:


Thanks !!!
How the heck do i wire that relay !!!!
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Calderone
Thanks !!!
How the heck do i wire that relay !!!!
Look at the picture in white on the corner. The pink wire would be your trigger wire. The one coming from the batt you would wire on that post I told you about its constant hot and put a fuse in it or simply get a 15 amp fusible link for your auto parts store. Then the other red wire coming out would be your power to the fan. Then a ground.. green wire. This is a standard 1" relay. The hardest part will be finding a "switched wire" maybe someone will pop in and point one out to ya.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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i will buy a relay and post what im doing here
seems complicated but maybe not that much
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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Na you are just letting it scare you. Think of a switch when you flip the switch you are completing the circuit. In this case when you supply 12 to the trigger wire the relay closes and you are supplying voltage to your fan .. Just like flipping the switch.I hope i'm not confusing you more.

Last edited by ch@0s; May 27, 2012 at 10:01 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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you did , lol !
i will get one tomorrow and practice with the diagram
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Old May 28, 2012 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Calderone
What's a good ignition switched source around the front of the car?]
Canister Purge solenoid by drv side headlight ( and AIR valves ) have ( had if you deleted) key on , fulltime power.
Use one of them to operate the relay
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Old May 28, 2012 | 12:31 AM
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i deleted the air and ac but the wires are still there.
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Old May 28, 2012 | 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Calderone
the wires are still there.
One wire in either pair will be hot with the key on.
Use a DVM to determine which one

Use that wire to power up the the relay ( trigger in the diagram ) that then switches power on a heavier (15A Min ) wire direct from the battery ( fused ) to the fan motor.

Any time you turn the key on ,
the fan will have power available so it will operate whenever the thermo switch in the cooler turns it on
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Old May 29, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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Got the relay and relay holder today , bought a fuse holder as well.
I will try to install it this weekend , will post pics ! Thanks !
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Old May 29, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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Sammy, relays are easy enough. Mostly used for high amperage draw items with a lower amp switch. Use insulated female blade "Stake On" crimp electrical connectors. Most relays are clearly marked and typically have the same numbering system as your diagram. Do one wire at a time if it makes it easier. As noted use one of the "spare" wires as your trigger. You can go all the way to the battery with your power lead and put in a Slow Burn fuse as suggested. Ground can be a frame point or back to battery with the + lead if you like. Then 12v out to the fan. Easy Peasy.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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Thanks , will do ! i was thinking to use a normal ATO fuse (like the one on our fuse blocks)
but seems like i have to use the old style (if those are the slow blow ones).-

I got the relay holder too.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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Hi guys i haven't change the cooler yet !!!!!
i was thinking on installing it without a relay but using a fuse only.
Is that possible?
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 01:18 AM
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Update, finally made the time to work on this cooler upgrade.
Comparing both coolers from side to side, wow there is a major difference!

Bigger with a 900CFM Shrouded fan plus rated at 26,000 GVWR gross vehicle weight ratio.
Hopefully will make a difference, here are the pics compared to the B&M 70264:

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I deleted all the AC components so the AC Condenser can get out of there.
The space in front of the aux fan was perfect for the B&M but not for this big boy.

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I had to remove the aux fan (i will upgrade to a Dewitts double row radiator & upgraded 2360 cfm fan as soon as i can) so i didn't mind removing the aux fan. Now after removing this i found good space to mount the new cooler.

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Now i will need help finding a wire that is "HOT" when the key is on to trigger
the relay. Today i tried my unused AC connector and A.I.R. Pump connectors with no luck.
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I just need to mount this cooler tight and go test try it but i need to finish the wiring.
i got the relay, relay holder (with the exposed wires) and fuse holder w/fuse.

Thanks ! ! !
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 04:09 PM
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any ideas? :O
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 01:22 PM
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Sammy, I have an extensive thread on the Guru on a nearly identical install. I used the aux fan wiring. Make sure you wire the fan in the correct phase and have the blades installed the correct direction.

Matthew
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/mod...orumpost214391
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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Thanks Matt !!!!
i believe it's a puller fan
how can i check if it has different phases? Not sure about it.
The aux fan is hot all the time with the key on?
i will check your thread, thanks !!!
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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Just checked your thread i have a few questions:

- Why you put the fan looking to the front of the car ?
i believe this act as a puller, it pulls the hot air, so the fan has to go in the same way
the engine fan is, behind the cooler and the hose terminals aiming at the cooling lines.

I would like the fan to work all the time, my aux fan never comes on because
my car never overheats, i will need a new wire, any ideas?
Thanks !
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