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I have a 92 c4 which has 112k on it and I just had the rear wheel bearings replaced, (a lot of popping and grinding coming from the left side, as well vibration). Both sides were worn out and in bad shape.
Now that has been fixed the car rides much quieter, no popping or roaring/grinding. However sometimes I swear it vibrates on acceleration more, and in corners. The corner deal is usually right handers (left side load), when I get on it. It is very sporadic and will go days without doing it, then bam!. I put brand new tires on at 109k. The shop that did the wheel bearings said all the U-joints were fine.
From reading posts here on CF I feel the axle shaft u-joints are bad. I am thinking just replace them, but I do not like to throw money at something and accomplish nothing.
Also the rear end alignment is correct as is the front, there is no odd tire wear. The vibration does not happen if the car is not under a load, unless it is a right hand turn.
I have a 92 c4 which has 112k on it and I just had the rear wheel bearings replaced, (a lot of popping and grinding coming from the left side, as well vibration). Both sides were worn out and in bad shape.
Now that has been fixed the car rides much quieter, no popping or roaring/grinding. However sometimes I swear it vibrates on acceleration more, and in corners. The corner deal is usually right handers (left side load), when I get on it. It is very sporadic and will go days without doing it, then bam!. I put brand new tires on at 109k. The shop that did the wheel bearings said all the U-joints were fine.
From reading posts here on CF I feel the axle shaft u-joints are bad. I am thinking just replace them, but I do not like to throw money at something and accomplish nothing.
Also the rear end alignment is correct as is the front, there is no odd tire wear. The vibration does not happen if the car is not under a load, unless it is a right hand turn.
Any ideas? Thanks
This is just a thought, so don't freak I bought a MINT 94 with a clean CarFax and all that, I bought $1,000 in rubber and the fronts wore badly on the insides. I had everything done that you had and supposedly everything was plumb. I found out later that the car was in a quite severe accident that was never reported to CarFax, I found out through my insurance company. I was pissed, turned out the chassis was twisted just enough to cause the tire wear. I never trusted CarFax after that. This is something that nobody would think of and unfortunately was learned through a very bad experience.
I had thought the same thing so I contacted all 3 previous owners. They all said no. This goes back to the original owner when new.
The last 5 years the car was only driven about 5000 miles, (I have 3000 on it after I bought it). The car did spend a lot of time sitting, spiders and cobwebs all underneath. The tires that were on it were not round anymore and dry rotted even though they only had 10,000 miles on them, hence the the new tires the day after brought it home.
The local Chevy dealer checked it all when the manifold gaskets were replaced and all was good and showed no sign of having been wrecked.
Today I noticed the rubber bushings in some areas of the rear suspension are cracking and hard, they will be replaced.
The previous owner all kept meticulous records and they show shocks replaced a 89,000, brake rotors and pads at 91,000.
Also I drove it to the paint shop today, (repainting the front and rear bumpers. Black Rose on those things does get cloudy and faded after 20 years in Florida), and it drove and rode fine.
Thanks for the thought and sorry to hear about your experience.
Well, thats good to hear It's probably a matter of just dialing in the suspension and maybe finding the worn part. Have the balance double checked because a weight can fall off after being on the road for a day, another thing I've experienced. Check for a bent wheel also.
The rims are the originals and look kind of beat, I also noticed that front saw blades are pointed in the opposite direction from the rears. Don't know if that matters. They will be replaced soon. The balance issue is something I will have checked the minute I get it back, thanks.
The rims are the originals and look kind of beat, I also noticed that front saw blades are pointed in the opposite direction from the rears. Don't know if that matters. They will be replaced soon. The balance issue is something I will have checked the minute I get it back, thanks.
The "saw-blade" wheels actually have to be on the right sides, there is a left & right, for looks and to properly cool the brakes. Just because they look bad don't mean they're bent, you could always have them re-done. I had wheels re-done on my Benz and they came out beautiful for $125 a wheel through Quicksilver.com, they have shops all over the place, something you might wanna consider.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Not so "caddy" there is too much load on the joints to detect slack that way. You'll need to get a prybar in there to make the joints move. If your lucky to have slack. Otherwise the joints will rust up with no play.
Not so "caddy" there is too much load on the joints to detect slack that way. You'll need to get a prybar in there to make the joints move. If your lucky to have slack. Otherwise the joints will rust up with no play.
Sounds like a typical U-joint problem to me.
I would've thought slack on the drives would be similar to slack on the drive-shaft. Seems alot of things on the adverage automobile don't apply to the C4.
Last edited by caddyboy84; May 29, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by sierra 43
Both sides were worn out and in bad shape. Now that has been fixed the car rides much quieter, no popping or roaring/grinding. However sometimes I swear it vibrates on acceleration more, and in corners. The shop that did the wheel bearings said all the U-joints were fine.
Assuming the shop your using is competent and pulled the caps on the u-joints for a visual inspection. I'd get under there with a flashlight and mirror for a good look-see of their work and any loose hardware/bushings.