C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

P/S pump noise ????

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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #1  
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Default P/S pump noise ????

I recently flushed my power steering system and replaced the fluid with synthetic PS fluid. Now when the engine & accessories get hot, the power steering pump makes a constant wirring noise. No leaks and no vibration and the power steering works just fine, but it wirrrrrrs when hot.

Is it time to replace or rebuild the 26 year OEM pump or should I go back to non-synthetic fluid OR just live with it until the pump starts leaking or fails?

WHAT THINK ??
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #2  
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I'd probably try to purge any air, jack up the front wheels off the ground, start engine, slowly turn front wheels lock to lock several times.

If the noise persists, then you may have a pump on its way out, or just a noisy bearing. I guess you could try changing the fluid back to the old stuff to see if it helps, but rebuilt pumps are cheap.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Often when we do the maint...too little too late, we end up with symptoms that warn of the impending failure...that would have happened anyway, we just made them appear by trying to do the right thing.

I agree 100% on the syn fluid. use that AND some LUCAS PS rack conditioner and you will never have a problem.

The whinning is the cavitation inside the pump from air foaming. usually from worn rollers in the vane-type impeller thats causing a mixing/stirring action instead of pumping...Its called "slippage" in hyd terms. It'll g o on for some time..then something WILL fail..a seal, pump, sumthin. If the car has been driven uch since the flush, air in the system is possible but not likely. A tight system chases it out first time the wheel is turned.
Like its been said, rebuilds are cheap....its good medicine to replace the old hoses as well. Those on the other hand are NOT cheap...
Get your FSM out and collect the tools. Its a good saturday job. Be damn careful with that bracket...hard to find and easy to break.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 11:30 AM
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What you probably did not do is bleed the system and yes I know there is no bleeder.
jack the car up use an old turkey baster and get out as much fluid as you can as all it is foam and aerated fluid.

Let the car sit several hours since last time run.
With the key on turn the wheels back and forth by hand if this puts fluid in the resivoir get it out of there. Repeat until you can not get any more out. Personally i would drain the whole thing out and flush with the fluid GM reccomends in the first place. It lasted 26 years with no problems and I doubt you will be driving the car 26 years from now. Anyway add a little fluid and move the wheels along with some Lucas PS conditoner the idea like brakes to not let it run dry and add more air. keep going until you are sure you have all the air out then start it and see what you have.

Worked on a good friends Ford that had a PS leak and they forgot to check it and air got in. You could hear that thing for 3 blocks away and no dead silent.

Dave
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet


Often when we do the maint...too little too late, we end up with symptoms that warn of the impending failure...that would have happened anyway, we just made them appear by trying to do the right thing.

I agree 100% on the syn fluid. use that AND some LUCAS PS rack conditioner and you will never have a problem.

The whinning is the cavitation inside the pump from air foaming. usually from worn rollers in the vane-type impeller thats causing a mixing/stirring action instead of pumping...Its called "slippage" in hyd terms. It'll g o on for some time..then something WILL fail..a seal, pump, sumthin. If the car has been driven uch since the flush, air in the system is possible but not likely. A tight system chases it out first time the wheel is turned.
Like its been said, rebuilds are cheap....its good medicine to replace the old hoses as well. Those on the other hand are NOT cheap...
Get your FSM out and collect the tools. Its a good saturday job. Be damn careful with that bracket...hard to find and easy to break.
The PS system was properly flushed and purged with the front wheels off the ground. All of the old fluid was captured from the return line B4 it came back to the reservoir. New fluid was added while the old fluid was purged out. We continued this process until all the old fluid was flushed out and only new fluid came out of the return line (all the while turning the wheels lock to lock). Also added PS conditioner to the new fluid.

I suspect that you are right that the whinning is the cavitation inside the pump from air foaming due to the worn 26 year old rollers in the vane-type impeller.

Soooooo, I think I'll live with it for a bit longer until I get time to have the folks at Turn One rebuild it for me. Thanks for your advice which has been very helpful. AND, thanks for the tip on the bracket. I'd hate to break it and then have to find a new one.

Thanks much
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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I had the same thing, I topped off with Lucas and it was gone Still is too and it's been a while.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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The OEM pump on my '87 autocross/track car started to whine pretty bad a few years ago. Once the fluid got hot, the noise was pretty loud. So I flushed out the old fluid and replaced it with Red Line Synthetic PS fluid.

That helped a lot but the whine did come back. Last year, I installed a PS fluid cooler using a small tranny cooler. That was a real big help and so far, there is no noise with the Red Line fluid and the cooler.

The pump is 25 years old so it's probably just a matter of time before it gets to where it will constantly whine or simply fail. Over this winter, I think I will go for a Turn One pump rebuild.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
good medicine to replace the old hoses as well. Those on the other hand are NOT cheap...
Or have a local hydraulic hose shop redo them.

Originally Posted by leesvet
Be damn careful with that bracket...hard to find and easy to break.
I bought one from CL but GM parts Direct lists them new, for $45, plus shipping.

The pump can be removed from the bracket w/o removing the pulley. All four attaching bolts are removable with a standard, slightly angled 1/2" box wrench. The three in front are tight to remove/install but come out despite snug clearances with the pulley.

Just changed my broken bracket, is how I know.
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