Anyone using a Crank Trigger?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
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From: Indianapolis IN
Anyone using a Crank Trigger?
Anyone using a Crank Trigger for sequential cylinder control?
I am in the throws of making this change in order to have better individual cylinder control, and as a result, get some more HP as well.
I know some use the Dual Sync distributor instead, but I would prefer the Crank Trigger method for my FAST XFI
I am in the throws of making this change in order to have better individual cylinder control, and as a result, get some more HP as well.
I know some use the Dual Sync distributor instead, but I would prefer the Crank Trigger method for my FAST XFI
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
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From: Indianapolis IN
Spoke to FAST tech and my local tuner, they say the past Dual Sync issues have been rectified a couple of years ago, so apparently the dual sync is the the simplest way to go
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
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I think "RedLS1GTO" has a crank trigger on his engine. Might want to contact him.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Göteborg
Made my own crank trigger for my L98 stroker with a sequential Autronic DFI system. Using a Honeywell GT101 sensor (hall type). I put four mild steel teeths equally spaced on the stock crank pulley. The GT101 sensor mounted on a L-shaped aluminum profile bolted to an existing threaded bolt hole on the block. works great.
Last edited by bogor; Jun 15, 2012 at 06:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
Sweet, I'm going buy the FAST because its plug n play,, evidently, I can alter my MSD distributor by removing 7 of the reluctor tabs (?) so I only get one signal per revolution, so I will give that a try...
or,,,, I might pick up a new distributor and sell my MSD 8366
What distributor are you guys using?
or,,,, I might pick up a new distributor and sell my MSD 8366
What distributor are you guys using?
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Göteborg
An old pic of the L-profile that holds the crank sensor
Its a standard Honeywell product but this is the only info I found: http://www.haltech.com/store/index.p...ct-sensor.html
The crank pulley with the four teeths I have added
The modified HEI distributor
Needed to remove everything inside to put the bottom from a oil can holder ($1) and grinded a small "window" in it to trigger the Hall sensor.
Here is the hall sensor I used (got it from somewhere else but it gives you some details about the sensor): http://octopart.com/2av54-honeywell-910593
I think I spent about $50 in total (about $45 for the two sensors) and surprisingly enough, it has worked flawlessly. Quite stable spark advance (guess around +- 1 degree) and no issues with interference. Depends ultimately on how you manage to make everything tight and rigid with small clearences and tolerances.
Download the manual to my Autronic system and you will get some good info how to do the crank trigger design with the GT101: http://www.mrm-racing.se/forum/showthread.php?t=294
Its a standard Honeywell product but this is the only info I found: http://www.haltech.com/store/index.p...ct-sensor.html
The crank pulley with the four teeths I have added
The modified HEI distributor
Needed to remove everything inside to put the bottom from a oil can holder ($1) and grinded a small "window" in it to trigger the Hall sensor.
Here is the hall sensor I used (got it from somewhere else but it gives you some details about the sensor): http://octopart.com/2av54-honeywell-910593
I think I spent about $50 in total (about $45 for the two sensors) and surprisingly enough, it has worked flawlessly. Quite stable spark advance (guess around +- 1 degree) and no issues with interference. Depends ultimately on how you manage to make everything tight and rigid with small clearences and tolerances.
Download the manual to my Autronic system and you will get some good info how to do the crank trigger design with the GT101: http://www.mrm-racing.se/forum/showthread.php?t=294
Last edited by bogor; Jun 16, 2012 at 03:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 4
From: Canton MI
It uses a ford style cap , so it's wide .. but you can clear MSD 8489 with no problem .
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...stributor.aspx
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
It uses a ford style cap , so it's wide .. but you can clear MSD 8489 with no problem .
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...stributor.aspx
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...stributor.aspx
I can sell my MSD 8366 pretty easily
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 4
From: Canton MI
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
Phasing the crank and cam seems tricky, is it that tough to do? Sounds like you align the crank with the max timing you would have in the ECU and then set the distributor reluctor to #1 on the cam.
I''m sure I'll figure it out once I have all the parts in my hands