C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

96 LT4 Oil Leak

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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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Default 96 LT4 Oil Leak

My 96 has about 42,000 miles on it and it has an annoying oil leak that appears to be originating from the front of the engine and splashing back. Looks like it could be coming from the spark plug/crank pulley area. I haven't crawled under the car yet for a closer look. Are crank seals for the LT engines one piece or two?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KJL
My 96 has about 42,000 miles on it and it has an annoying oil leak that appears to be originating from the front of the engine and splashing back. Looks like it could be coming from the spark plug/crank pulley area. I haven't crawled under the car yet for a closer look. Are crank seals for the LT engines one piece or two?

Thanks.
All '86 and up engines are one piece. The seal for the harmonic balancer has always been one piece, even in 1955.

The leak you describe typically comes from one of the following areas...
- intake manifold end seal (which is just RTV)
- water pump driveshaft seal in the timing chain (front) cover
- balancer seal in the front cover
- o-ring around the crankshaft position sensor

Every once in awhile the opti seal in the front cover will leak, but that's pretty rare.

All three seals in the front cover can be replaced with the front cover on the engine.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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I would suspect the water pump drive shaft seal to be the cause.

And a bit of a PITA to replace as well.

Check the back side of the water pump for oil as well. If oil there then it is the drive shaft seal. Lots of posts on replacing it. Plan on several hours if you do your own work or a hefty bill to have a shop do it.

Good luck.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Thanks guys for the help. I saw in a post they sell a tool for replacing the WP drive shaft seal. It looks like the tool they sell to replace the turbo 400 transmission shifter shaft seal, just a bigger version. Thread it around the shaft and withdraw seal, use other end to seat new seal. The biggest pain is finding the source. There is a lot "stuff" in the front of the engine. I may just replace them all and be done with it. Leaning over engine bays is also taking its toll on my aging back.

Looks like at a minimum I will need to remove water pump?

How well does the rear main seal hold up?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KJL
Thanks guys for the help. I saw in a post they sell a tool for replacing the WP drive shaft seal. It looks like the tool they sell to replace the turbo 400 transmission shifter shaft seal, just a bigger version. Thread it around the shaft and withdraw seal, use other end to seat new seal. The biggest pain is finding the source. There is a lot "stuff" in the front of the engine. I may just replace them all and be done with it. Leaning over engine bays is also taking its toll on my aging back.

Looks like at a minimum I will need to remove water pump?

How well does the rear main seal hold up?
To replace all three seals, you will need to remove the water pump, the optispark, the crankshaft balancer/pulley, and the crankshaft hub. The hub, without having the correct tool, can be removed with a typical puller (many threads on this), but it's a real PIA. If someone local to you has the Kent Moore tool it's a 5 minute job vs 30-60 minutes (in some threads you will see that people have spent days). You will spend 3-4 hours total to do this job, including draining and refilling the coolant, assuming decent mechanical skills. If you're new at this, assume a weekend.

You should also carefully check around the front and rear of the intake. When oil starts leaking past the end seals, it can make a heck of a mess. Wouldn't surprise me in the least if it's the end seal at the front of the intake. The intake takes about 90 minutes to r&r. If you're new at spinning wrenches assume 6-8 hours.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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Thanks, not new to spinning wrenches but never been in a real rush and prefer to work slowly as to not forget I left the the darn rag in the lifter gallery after I finish torquing the last intake bolt. Beer and late nights don't mix well. I will see if someone can loan me the Kent Moore tool if it obvious that is the source of the leak. Thanks for your help.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 07:45 PM
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It also helps to drain the block by removing the knock sensors (both sides) along with draining the radiator. Otherwise you will have a hard time telling if you have a front seal leaking once the water pump comes off and fluid runs down the front of the motor.
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