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I have a chance to pick up a 3.73 Dana 36 for my 95 that has a Dana 36 3.07. It comes with the housing, drive shaft and C brace. Would this be too much for my Auto 95 with long tubes, and a 2800 stall. I am currently running 12.8 @107 MPH
That was the 1st thing i did to the car back when i 1st bought it back when i was in high school ... It's a great upgread as long as you dont try to put a slick tire on the car .
That was the 1st thing i did to the car back when i 1st bought it back when i was in high school ... It's a great upgread as long as you dont try to put a slick tire on the car .
The D44 is much stronger than the D36. All manual trans C4's got the D44. So if your car hooks up with drag radials, the chances are pretty good that the D36 will fail.
Do you have any idea what the mileage is on this diff you are considering? If it has high miles on it, definitely rebuild it. Add some HD u-joints for both the half-shafts and the driveshaft. But it really would be best to find a D44
IMO the gearing 3.73 is ideal for a stock lt1 motor. But as others are saying, its not likely to last long, if you are dead hooking the car on drag radials.
If you can find a D44 with the 3.73 gears you would be much better off. To bolt everything in, you need the D44, the batwing, c beam, and the driveshaft from a 6sp car.
I am dead hooking with the drag radials,60' time is 1.816 power braking to 3000 RPM's with the Dana 36 3.07, I have a chance to get the 3.73 for $400. I thought maybe I should grab this for a cheap fix if the 3.07 goes, I have about 30 1/4 mile runs on it
I am dead hooking with the drag radials,60' time is 1.816 power braking to 3000 RPM's with the Dana 36 3.07, I have a chance to get the 3.73 for $400. I thought maybe I should grab this for a cheap fix if the 3.07 goes, I have about 30 1/4 mile runs on it
If you turn your own wrenches, then for $400.00 I would give it a try. Just keep in mind that the additional torque ratio puts extra stress on the rear end, everything including the case, axles etc. I would try to limit my burnouts, and make sure when you do them that both tires are wet. Look up this guy, John Mackey, (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...ckeyred96.html) He ran a bolt on 96 with a stall and a D36 3.73 Several years ago, he had some pointers on how to keep it alive.
But FWIW the D44 is stronger, but by no means are they bullet proof. I have broke mine at least 4 times and that is just with the first car in my signature. Right now, it needs new clutches in the rear, which we are going to do when we put the motor back in the car.
For a drag only car go for it.Fine on the street too if you don't mind the extra cruising rpm.
The extra gear may lower the stall speed in your converter some also.
I think a stock Dana 44 with the 3.45 gear would be the perfect compromise for you.