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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-‘17, '22
Basic 90 airbag sensor question
My airbag and seatbelt lights have been on in my car for some time and seeing as I have a few things apart while I replace the heater core I figure now is as good a time as any to try lick this problem again.
Both airbag frame sensors and mounting points were cleaned a while ago and the light stayed on after I cleared the codes. I repainted the top part of the chassis rails where the sensors mount at the same time because it was looking pretty miserable. Is this okay or should I have some exposed metal to contact the airbag sensor at each end. As best as I can figure, I don't need to do this because if dialectic grease is to be used on the mounting points then that would prevent any electical grounding.
I got mine to clear for good by sanding the two end points down under the metal tabs at the ends of each sensor. I sanded the frame down to bare metal under the sensors. I used new bolts and put a new lock washer on each bolt. As you tighten them down the lock washer will actually cut into the metal a little bit to assure a good ground. Then I put the silicon grease over any bare metal to prevent corrosion and water penetration. I also cleaned out all of the connectors in the airbag system with electronic parts cleaner. I reset the light and it and the seatbelt light have been working properly for over a year now. Good luck with that thing. :cheers:
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-‘17, '22
Re: Basic 90 airbag sensor question (KYVette90)
Thanks! :cheers:
I'll be working on it tomorrow. Now that you mention it now is as good a time as any to clean the conections as well. Here's hoping there isn't a sensor or DERM purchase in my near future...
The dielectric grease is supposed to conduct electricity. You also said you cleared the codes but it stayed on. Are you sure you cleared the code? It IS VERY frustrating and difficult, at least for me, to do once you have everything cleaned. It took me allmost 45 minutes to get mine to clear. Ground, count 1,2,3, unground etc etc etc. I also used some star washers.
Red, last time I tryed to fix it was some months ago and I only cleaned one sensor (the right side one). I did manage to clear the codes but then found that it was the left sensor that was giving me trouble when the light reappeared and I read the code. I do know what you mean about clearing the code successfully, last time it took me a fair while to get my timing just right to clear the codes.
I've cleaned both sensors and frame rails but haven't cleared the codes and re-tested it as I am getting sidetracking with the heater replacement and it is taking longer than I expected. Hopefully I'll finish up tonight.
I have taken mine to dealer 4 times in the past 12 years, and each time they replaced the sensor on the left side. The light just went on again this week. Grrrrrr. Will have to get serious this time.
Just had my first drive after cleaning both sensors, exposing bare metal on the frame on the contact points for the sesnors. I somehow managed to get the code clearing sequence just right the first time :eek: and the light hasn't come back on... I'll insulate the top of the connections with some dialectic grease when I get home to insulate them from moisture... Woohoo! Thanks guys. :cheers: