C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear brake upgrade

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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 06:09 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Ricky 91 vette
with my current setup the front are still locking up slightley before the rear, even though i kept the DRM bias spring in the master sylender!! but the stock rears never locked up while the new setup does....
I wonder if something else is wrong. Perhaps in the MC restricting the rear line pressure. You have a LOT of rear bias, no reason the fronts should be locking up first.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #62  
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oh by the way here is a link to dale, he is a forum member and he is the one who sold me the adapters and he shipped them to me in no time

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...76ls1bird.html

Last edited by Ricky 91 vette; Aug 2, 2012 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
Yes i installed custom hoses. I will give you a list of the part numbers i used when I can look them up. I will also snap a few pics this weekend.


Edit: Here are the part numbers:

These go in each caliper
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641431/

These go on the hardline on the car
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-989534ERL/

These are the hoses I used
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-63010116ERL/

I chose hoses with straight fittings because I wasnt sure how close to the wheel the hose would get with 90 or 45 degree. You can try a different end. I route the hose in between the trailing arms, up to the fitting on the car.

All the fittings and hoses for all four corners cost less than a pre-made "kit" for a C4, and I can change hose length easily if I change brake setups in the future.
thanks for all these info, u r totally right, these are cheaper than a pre made c4 set, mine coasted me over $100, by the way do u have in mind any thing for the e brake?
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I wonder if something else is wrong. Perhaps in the MC restricting the rear line pressure. You have a LOT of rear bias, no reason the fronts should be locking up first.
you know what my friend, i was thinking the same thing too, actually since i have stock c5 up front, and bigger rotors and the c5 brakes on the rear + DRM bias, i should be locking my rear first!! i was thinking on the first days that the pads needs to set first, but now it's been more than a week, i tried them this morning in a parking lot and felt the front locking first, the pressure on the rear felt good when i was bleeding them, i dont know i may need to bleed them again.... by the way do i need to bleed all 4 wheels? i only messed with the rear, and what is the best way to bleed the abs?
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Ricky 91 vette
thanks for all these info, u r totally right, these are cheaper than a pre made c4 set, mine coasted me over $100, by the way do u have in mind any thing for the e brake?
Mine is track only so I dont mind not having an e-brake. Sorry I can't be more help there.

Originally Posted by Ricky 91 vette
you know what my friend, i was thinking the same thing too, actually since i have stock c5 up front, and bigger rotors and the c5 brakes on the rear + DRM bias, i should be locking my rear first!! i was thinking on the first days that the pads needs to set first, but now it's been more than a week, i tried them this morning in a parking lot and felt the front locking first, the pressure on the rear felt good when i was bleeding them, i dont know i may need to bleed them again.... by the way do i need to bleed all 4 wheels? i only messed with the rear, and what is the best way to bleed the abs?
It is possible you still have air. The front and rear are two separate systems so it should not affect the front. I have never bled the abs by itself. Usually enough bleeding at the wheel will take car of it. I would try bleeding again. Sometimes air bubbles hide in places and driving it around can work them loose. Start with the right rear, then the left, then do them each again.

Even if the pads were not properly bedded the rear should still lock firstI would think.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #66  
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will do, thanks Kubs
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #67  
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In my 93 there is a line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit behind the drivers seat. The ABS unit has a bleeder valve on it's side. I used a Mity-Vac pump to bleed that line out.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by kalister1
In my 93 there is a line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit behind the drivers seat. The ABS unit has a bleeder valve on it's side. I used a Mity-Vac pump to bleed that line out.
i know i looked everywhere but i couldn't find a bleeder on the abs unit so i ended bleeding through the lines where they conect to it one by one, when i change the rear ss brake lines to a longer ones i will take a closer look to see if i missed it....
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Ricky 91 vette
i ended bleeding through the lines where they conect to it one by one.
That may have actually allowed air to enter the system.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 02:26 AM
  #70  
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I don't think so, I've bleeded too many cars before, but normally when there is air in the system u can tell by stepping on the brakes twice and if the second step felt higher it will mean it needs more bleeding but mine feels really good now and doesn't do that , but anyways when I change the ss brake lines I will bleed them again
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