Well after having a bad vibration I took the 93 to the GM Dealer to find out what was going on. They found the let side ball joints, outer tie rod end, and both hubs worn. Going to replace all four shocks while I am under the car. They also put the foot from the lift into my drivers floor pan!!! They had the floor pan fixed and undercoated Tuesday. So all my parts came in yesterday hoping to collect the tools today so I can get started on this job soon. I would like any input on doing this. I have the FSM and will be following it closely, but I could also use any help the experts can throw in to make it easier or less painful. This will be a slow and steady project as my sis in law is coming to visit today and staying for the weekend. So drop me a line and let me know what you have done or how to make this a little quicker for me.

Thanks in advance.

 

I was sure hoping someone might give me some pointers here! I got started on the front end, ball joints are the only things left to do. I believe I can get the uppers off with a pickle fork. I see in the FSM the GM tool numbers needed to do the lowers. I am wondering if anyone has the correct tool to remove the lowers? If so would you be willing to help me out by allowing me to rent or borrow it? I have searched everywere within 150 miles of HInevlle, GA and nobody has anyything that comes close to working. If I cant find the correct tool the car will have to go to a shop to have them installed and the front end aligned.

 

Been a while since I replaced my upper and lower ball joints. I used a rubber mallet with a few careful taps and everything came loose once the nuts were off. The uppers are easy versus the lowers which require pressing the old ones out and pressing the new in.

The old upper ball joints were riveted in place, if you have a cutting wheel with a grinder attachment, you can grind off the rivets on top. if you take the A arm and gently hit the old ball joint stud on a hard surface, the grinded joint unseats and pops right out. Thankfully, the news offered are screwed in place, so you don't need special tools to install.


A shop back in my old state of Alabama charged $80 to press out the old and press in the new lower joints. Not sure if that's a lot or not but I was just glad to have someone do it. Have you tried O'Reily's/Autozone/Advanced Auto? They have been known to rent ball joint press tools.

If not them, then possibly a nearby Harbor Freight. With your hubs, you will have to use your existing bolts and nuts holding the fronts on. The hubs have a serieds of holes in them all the same size....except for one. The larger single hole is the one to turn over the bolts so they can be separated.

If you don't have a grease gun, now is a good time to get a good quality one. The joints will need to be packed with grease. I just used Lucas brand grease for heavy duty applications. Once they are greased, it may be a good idea to leave a dab of grease on top of each zerk, it acts as a shield to keep any foreign contaminants from entering the ball joint. Though the zerks themselves are self sealing, it's optional. I didn't do it but I have seen those who have.

Red loctite couldn't hurt on the upper ball joint screws. Take some time to grease your front sway bar while you are in there. Do your best to adhere to the torque specs upon reassembly.

Some of suspension gurus may chime in with all the specifics. Good luck.

 

Glad to hear from you. I have tried all the parts stores and Harbor Freight as you have mentioned. The only joint tool they have is way to large to get between the control arms. I am hoping not to have to remove the control arms. The best price I have gotten to do the lower ball joints is $265. I am buying time right now hoping somoeone has a ool I can borrow or rent from them. If all else fails I might have to take it to a repair shop for the lowers. I will be going into my garage to start on the uppers in about half an hour or so. Sure wish I could locate someone around here that could offer up a tool for a few hours but I am not that lucky.

 

I assume that you were able to separate both ball joints from the spindle...is this correct?
With the spindle removed the large C clamp style ball joint press will work on the lower ones. But to me it is much easier and safer to remove the lower control arms and take to a shop to have the old and new joints pressed out/in.
Or you could jut do a complete swap of control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Corvette Recyclers has/had a comlete set for $400 and then you could sell the old set.

An alignment is going to be required regardless of the method used.

Good luck.

 

Or you could just do it the easy way. This way you also get new bushings, hard to beat this price. Just unbolt the old ones, bolt in the new ones..WW

http://www.corvetterecycling.com/198...trolarmkit.htm

 

Just back in from another disapointing attempt. I told the wife we are taking it to the shop tomorrow morning and let them deal with it. I am sure they will have the correct press to get the joints in and out and then align it.
Thanks for everyones help.

 

I'm kinda leaning toward the new assy idea....sure, its almost twice the cost of just replacing ball joints BUT you get bushings too and that accounts for a LOT of front end concerns...The weak link in a vette suspension forces the stresses upon the next componant causing premature wear on everything.

The cheap easy way out...
go buy your new rebuilt control arms, return the other parts for a refund, and then pay the shop to install. labor to swap the whole arm will be less than changing joints..easier job...heck, you;re back to doing THAT at home !

 

In the title of the post you mention 'wheel hub' replacement.

Do those need replaced too?

Are they still even available (as NOS, and not made-in-china replacements)?

 

There was a gentleman posting from Macon several weeks ago that did Corvette work. I don't remember if he was posting in General section or Southeast section. Might be a possible contact for help?

Joel