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My water pump has had a slow leak for a long time and the coolant is deteriorating by serpentine belt. Is there a way to seal the link or do I just have to get a new one? If I get a new one it will be my 3rd so I want to get a good one (not GM) this time. Any recommendation on mfr's and where to buy? Anyone try the Evan's Cooling System (I think that is the name). They use a different water pump and also different coolant. Is it worth the price and the hassel?
You need a new water pump, it's not worth trying to rebuild the old one. I went with NAPA they have good quality parts $169.00 new. What ever you don't go rebuilt. As far as going with somthing that uses a different type of antifreeze, I would suggest not doing it. It's not a good idea to mix different types of fluids, and there is no way to get 100% of the old stuff out.
Meziere is the best, but its electric. Otherwise, just get one from the local store. Dont get a rebuilt one, and try to fix it fast, your opti is vented but its not waterproof.
What are the pros and cons of an electric pump? I know they don't have the parasitic loss, but are they as reliable and do they cool as well? Who besides GM makes pumps for the LT1?
Most rebuilt waterpumps should be sufficient for a stock motor. The real key to long lasting waterpumps is the lubrication that the coolant gives. Perhaps, your coolant mixture is not sufficiently lubricating your pump.
:cheers:
Ok. I am not going to go electric, because I had a new belt put on the other day before I knew about the pump. I am going to be saving for a C5 so I don't want to spend much, but I do want something that will last. I will get a new pump ( not rebuilt). Should I get a new one from NAPA or some other auto parts store and do I need a new gasket or does one come with the pump? Thanks for everyone's help.
I had to replace the water pump in my 87 and I chose the Stewart ($104 to my door) because it has higher delivery and 41% more at idle. It definetely keeps my engine cool. BTW an electric water pump gets its power from the alternator, so you will NOT be saving any hp from the engine, in fact for the same water pump shaft load, an electric water pump requires more power, not less. Your engine has to deliver the inefficiencies of both the alternator and the electric motor on top of the hp actually moving water.
The Stewart sounds good, but I don't think they make one for a 95 LT1. If this is incorrect let me know. What other aftermarket pumps are made for a 95 LT1?
BTW an electric water pump gets its power from the alternator, so you will NOT be saving any hp from the engine, in fact for the same water pump shaft load, an electric water pump requires more power, not less.
The above statement does not consider the short burst of a run say from 0-60mph. The alternator does not tax the engine's power for that few seconds to totally restore the battery drain. For acceleration power, go with the electric.
During your short burst run from 0 to 60, the electric water pump is running and it gets electrical power from the alternator. The engine turns the alternator so hp is taken from the engine to operate the electric water pump. Non stock drag racers do not have an alternator on their engines for this very reason, that is , to minimize any hp load on the engine so maximum hp is available to the rear wheels.
I repeat, there is less drag generated by the electric water pump and alternator combined than the belt driven water pump in a given amount of time and distance.
During your short burst run from 0 to 60, the electric water pump is running and it gets electrical power from the alternator
jfb, what happened to all that power stored in your battery?
You are stuck with the LT1 H2O pump, all the guys with L98 (85-91 Vettes) have a completely different H2O pump. You can purchase a factory H2O pump from an internet GM parts dealer for ~$160. Since all of them use the same bearing/impeller, the life of them should be the same rebuilt or brand new OEM. Unfortunately, GM used a single bearing for the impeller, so the life is short on these things.
southern son, The power stored in the battery stays there when the engine is running because the alternator is designed to maintain 14.7 volts across the battery and therefore supplies power to all the electrical system. A fully charged lead acid battery has a terminal voltage of 13.2 volts, and when any d.c. source at or above that voltage is connected to it , current only flows into the battery , not out of it! So when you are running down the road or race course or drag strip, the alternator is supplying all electrical power being used, and if you have an electric water pump, then the current to the water pump motor is being supplied by the alternator and the alternator is consuming hp from the running engine. Is this clear?
Jfb, I am truly shocked (no pun intended). Who woulda thought the voltage regulator was so consciencious in its duty to maintain that battery so quickly? :)
OK, guys, I was having just a little bit 'O fun here. The real question is "does the incipient drag induced by the mechanical spinning of the water pump by the belt during the high speed run-up of the engine exceed the 'relative' constant draw of power from the alternator?" I say yes. (of course, we are talking about a short burst of acceleration here, not the net average of power consumed over a 100 mile trip down the interstate.)