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Zf6 swap hydraulic problems

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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Default Zf6 swap hydraulic problems

So I put a zf6 in my 85 everything was put back together no problem ,but I'm using the 4+3 master with the zf6 slave and the rod seems to be hyper extending I've heard of a "spacer" but i dont have one. does anyone know if that's my problem?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 11:45 AM
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Its To space the slave cylinder from the bellhousing
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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I thought the early C4's were push-style clutches, and the ZF's are pull-style.

I think everything needs to match up...no crossing of styles.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Well I found out the spacers from the fire wall to the master cylinder not on the slave.
I'm not willing to dish out more $$$ for a new master cylinder how can I make this work?
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob1985z51
Well I found out the spacers from the fire wall to the master cylinder not on the slave.
I'm not willing to dish out more $$$ for a new master cylinder how can I make this work?
You want a bastardized setup to work? Really?

The SYSTEM is designed to work together...throw out a MAJOR part of the system and replace it (like with a 4+3 master) and it just isn't gonna work. Period.

You have 2 choices:

1) Install ALL of the correct equipment so it works, or

2) Throw the baby out with the bath water...

At this stage, you are too far along to rip it all back out.

The 4+3 master was DESIGNED to push more fluid as the push-style clutches needed more throw to disengage.

Your only other choice is to put a pedal stop in to prevent it from going too far.

It's your car...do with it what you like.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 11:19 AM
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You can shorten the rod that goes through the firewall into the master. The pedal will sit a bit lower at the top, but it would stop hyperextending the slave. Either that or put a stop on the clutch pedal so that it hits the firewall. Those are the two cheapest options.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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Sounds like a pedal stop would be easiest at this point. With the car jacked up and in gear, push the clutch pedal just until the rear tires can spin freely (may require two people), go no more than 1/2" of pedal travel beyond that point, and that is how far your pedal should go. Make a stop to keep the pedal there.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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Thanks for the info I'm thinking of going the pedal stop route. What's involved the with custom fab of one?
Or do they sell one?
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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Just push the clutch in as Kubs said and measure the distance from the pedal to the firewall. You are probably going to have to weld something (like a bolt) on the pedal the correct space from the firewall.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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You could go a couple different ways. The easiest would be to just bolt a piece of wood to the firewall for the pedal arm to hit. Mount it close to the pivot point.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the help guys
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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I just need to be the devil's advocate here for a second........You went through the trouble of the ZF conversion in a 1985 Corvette.....but you are not willing to swap out the old master cylinder for the proper ZF master cylinder to properly put things in order?? I am assuming if you could afford to get that far, you can afford a master cylinder???

I guess I'm missing something here.......to me its like buying a new set of tires and having them mounted but not willing to spring for the balancing????

Help me out here??
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:21 PM
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Well I'm 17 money is tight but I did manage to save just enough money to buy a 93 zf master cylinder so I could feel better after finding out fabing something would be about half of the price
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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I see,

well, personally installing a wood block on the floor board of my Vette to stop the clutch travel is a little bit........well, I'll stop here and bite my tongue.........



have fun my young Vette owner brother......
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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Don't build it out of wood, but don't feel bad about the pedal stop. They are extremely common and when you rewrite the book sometimes necessary. Also, some racers (myself included) like the pedal stop as it shortens clutch throw and helps with faster shifts. To each their own. Kudos to you for the ambitious project at 17.

Anyway, quick and easy you can take some aluminum strap and 4 bolts and clamp the strap to the clutch pedal with it bent in a 90 at the base so it has good and well distributed contact with the floor. Might be worth a shot.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks guys I am fiddling with the new clutch master cylinder as I type this looks like it's straight forward and simple compared to the rest of the build. hopefully tonight I will have my vett back on the road where it belongs
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