C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

plugs and wires

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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Default plugs and wires

Recently purchased my first Vette, an 86 coupe. I want to change the plugs out, is it advisable to also do the wires at the same time? I took a quick look at the wires and they look decent. I'm not a mechanic but figure with my limited experience i can do the job no problem. Would it also be advised to check the distributor cap as well? Remember I'm not a mechanic so any crazy engine terminology and I'll have to Google it!! Perhaps dumb it down for me, lol!! thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Calgaryvettedude
Recently purchased my first Vette, an 86 coupe. I want to change the plugs out, is it advisable to also do the wires at the same time? I took a quick look at the wires and they look decent. I'm not a mechanic but figure with my limited experience i can do the job no problem. Would it also be advised to check the distributor cap as well? Remember I'm not a mechanic so any crazy engine terminology and I'll have to Google it!! Perhaps dumb it down for me, lol!! thanks in advance.
Ask when the plugs and wires were last changed and same with the distributor cap and rotor. Also if you are changing plugs then usually wires need changed also.

Whenever I change my plugs I do wires also, but that is me.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Calgaryvettedude
Recently purchased my first Vette, an 86 coupe. I want to change the plugs out, is it advisable to also do the wires at the same time? I took a quick look at the wires and they look decent. I'm not a mechanic but figure with my limited experience i can do the job no problem. Would it also be advised to check the distributor cap as well? Remember I'm not a mechanic so any crazy engine terminology and I'll have to Google it!! Perhaps dumb it down for me, lol!! thanks in advance.
if wires look ok, no engine miss, I wouldn't bother. the originals will last 100K or more -if they have not been punctured. mine are original, 111K. check inside cap, clean with fuel or similar, to remove the oil or carbon tracks, fingerprints, etc. if terminals appears burned -a judgment decision, since they all appear burned- replace it.
most owners would change everything that looked old, but that logic follows for everything!

if you change wires, mark the old ones with paint dots or similar, on the dist plug boot, before removing, also the new ones, also mark where the #1 wire is in dist cap. the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, clockwise from 1. the cylinders are front to back, drivers side 1-3-5-7, 2-4-6-8 on pass side.

you will need a universal joint/swivel for your 3/8 ratchet, might have to remove inner fender to access 2-4-6-8 plugs. not as bad as it sounds, torx bolts, T27 I think, or allen wrench.

GM says to use one drop of engine oil on plug threads.

joe
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
if wires look ok, no engine miss, I wouldn't bother. the originals will last 100K or more -if they have not been punctured. mine are original, 111K. check inside cap, clean with fuel or similar, to remove the oil or carbon tracks, fingerprints, etc. if terminals appears burned -a judgment decision, since they all appear burned- replace it.
most owners would change everything that looked old, but that logic follows for everything!

if you change wires, mark the old ones with paint dots or similar, on the dist plug boot, before removing, also the new ones, also mark where the #1 wire is in dist cap. the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, clockwise from 1. the cylinders are front to back, drivers side 1-3-5-7, 2-4-6-8 on pass side.

you will need a universal joint/swivel for your 3/8 ratchet, might have to remove inner fender to access 2-4-6-8 plugs. not as bad as it sounds, torx bolts, T27 I think, or allen wrench.

GM says to use one drop of engine oil on plug threads.

joe
It is easier to take off 1 wire at a time and find the matching new one if he is replacing the wires and then to put it on and move to the next.

Also yes on the passenger side it is MUCH easier when you remove the wheel well to change those plugs, otherwise it can be time taking.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 01:42 PM
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Thanks for the advice everyone, I would never have thought to remove the fender!! The car has 114,000 kms, thats 70,000 miles and I think the wires are original. I just want to get in and get my hands dirty on something relatively easy. Do i still need the drop of oil on the plugs with aluminum heads? Also i currently don't have an owner's manual or FSM, is there a torque on the plugs that i should be aware of?
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Calgaryvettedude
Thanks for the advice everyone, I would never have thought to remove the fender!! The car has 114,000 kms, thats 70,000 miles and I think the wires are original. I just want to get in and get my hands dirty on something relatively easy. Do i still need the drop of oil on the plugs with aluminum heads? Also i currently don't have an owner's manual or FSM, is there a torque on the plugs that i should be aware of?
Forget the drop of oil and buy a small tube of "Antiseize" .. This is used on the threads of the spark plugs and alot of other bolts that go into the aluminum on the engine... If you don't use antiseize and leave the plugs in aluminm heads for a few years, good luck getting them out...
I just noticed you have an 86 , this is the year they changed over to aluminum heads .Make sure your heads are aluminum and not steel by using a magnet to check them if your not sure.They changed over from steel heads about mid year to aluminum, the different heads take different spark plugs so make sure you know what you have.......WW

Last edited by WW7; Jul 19, 2012 at 09:08 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 03:58 PM
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Just did this last weekend to my 85. Cap, rotor and wires I did MSD, coil and ignitor is Pertronix and AC-1 plugs. Big differance. Ive seen my average MPG go from 17.8 to 19.6. More power too. I personally don't use lube or anti sieze on iron heads. Driver side plugs are not to bad, #2 is easy, go thru the cutout above the frame with an extention, 4 and 6 are easy 8 is a bear. Get a good plug socket wrench without the built on swivel.

Last edited by LongBeachC4; Jul 19, 2012 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Forget the drop of oil and buy a small tube of "Antiseize" .. This is used on the threads of the spark plugs and alot of other bolts that go into the aluminum on the engine... If you don't use antiseize and leave the plugs in aluminm heads for a few years, good luck getting them out...
I just noticed you have an 86 , this is the year they changed over to aluminum heads .Make sure your heads are aluminum and not steel by using a magnet to check them if your not sure.They changed over from steel heads about mid year to aluminum, the different heads take different spark plugs so make sure you know what you have.......WW
Checked my heads and i do have aluminum, did the magnet check and the the bolt pattern on the heads, this forum is extremely helpful for new vette owners and guys who just want to save a few dollars on mechanics labor!!
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