1987 TPI Injector Problems!!!
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
1987 TPI Injector Problems!!!
I just got a 1987 Corvette (TPI) It was running good, then started missing, surging and running rough, I changed the wires and still the same so I check the injector connections and found if I pull the #1 injector clip the Idle stops surging and sounds fine... So I check the compression and leak down they are fine. Get out my Nod light and test all injectors none are blinking just goes to red light on all. If I put the Nod on the injector base it does pulse? The passenger bank (2,4,6 &8) sound fine I can hear them clicking and when I pull a clip it runs rough. So I move to the Driver side bank (1,3,5 &7) and hear really a faint click out of the injectors, I pull the #1 injector clip and the click gets louder on the other 3 but not as loud as the passenger side. The #1 injector does not click at all, The old owner did change the pump and injectors about 1,000mi before I got the car? Help please I have no clue on the TPI engine??? 
If 1 injector doesnt work on the TPI can it make all of that side screw up? or is it in the harness pcm or what?
I did check the:
Inj1 and 2 fuses they are fine.
cleaned the maf
checked all vacuum lines???
Comp test
leak down
Plugs
If 1 injector doesnt work on the TPI can it make all of that side screw up? or is it in the harness pcm or what?I did check the:
Inj1 and 2 fuses they are fine.
cleaned the maf
checked all vacuum lines???
Comp test
leak down
Plugs
Last edited by LS3fosho; Jul 25, 2012 at 03:19 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
how did you test injectors, exactly? by "clip," I assume you refer to the harness connector, not the injector clip? if they were replaced, what led you to suspect them?
they all fire at once. if engine is running, the light should blink. but since they fire at the same time, no need to check them if engine is running. you check the HARNESS plug, not the injector.
listening to them is misleading. if you really suspect one, use an ohmmeter and check between the injector terminals. should read above 10, more like 15.
they all fire at once. if engine is running, the light should blink. but since they fire at the same time, no need to check them if engine is running. you check the HARNESS plug, not the injector.
listening to them is misleading. if you really suspect one, use an ohmmeter and check between the injector terminals. should read above 10, more like 15.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
As Jack & Joe have stated, you;re looking at a shorted injector OR harness.
VERY COMMON.
Ohms test all the driver side injectors. 16 is the goal number...less than 12 is junk. Do this hot and cold if possible.
Lets explain the way they work to understand how to fix.....
This is a single fuel injection circuit in the ECM that is split IN the ECM into 2 pathways, each with its own fuse. So you now have 2 inj circuits FROM the ECM out to the engine bay.
One goes to driver side (left) other to passenger (right side).
Each side now splits into 4 wires. Same for both sides. This is how you end up with 8 injectors plugs from a single inj control circuit.
Now the fun part...
This is a simple loop...a series where the hot wire jumps from one to the next. So the hot wire is hot all the time. Its the GROUND that the ECM uses to complete or open to tell the inj when to fire. And that ground path IS again the single circuit in the ECM so when the rt side gets a signal to fire all the inj on the rt side fire at the same time...regardless of where the intake valve is or what it is doing....same goes for the left side.
This is called "Bank-Fired" and the whole assy as a set of 8 is known as "Batch-Fired"..the whole batch fire.
The problem is that when any one injector gets shorted that short contaminates the whole bank..sometimes the batch. They all short and will stick open dumping fuel in the cyl at a scarey rate..The pan can actually over fill with gasoline if the engine does not explode from a hydrolock of gasoline first. Its serious.
If you d/c the #1 plug and it makes things settle down then its either the inj itself OR the plug, or wire to that inj. Trade it with the #3 inj and see if it moves. If it m oves then its the plug/wire. If the problem stays then its the #1 injector.
That noid lite is the best $10 tool thats ever been sold to the DIY guys working on EFI cars...great diagnostic aid. Almost as valuable as a FSM.
Do these test with caution....as I said before the risk of a hydro-lock is HUGE. IF you take a cyl thats completely flooded with fuel and try to start it....and another cylinder fires and makes a strong rotation of the crank at just the wrong time....that flooded cyl will break the piston or bend the rod...or worse.
I've seen liquid gasoline gush out of the tail pipes....not mist,...liquid. I had 2 gallons of oil and gasoline drain out of a crankcase once....all from a single shorted fuel injector. So if there is ANY doubt as to whats going on, pull the #1 plug and see if its wet and if it IS then proceed without that plug so the gas can blow out the hole and not destroy the rotating assy by hydrolocking.
This is an easy fix. Just do the proper diagnosis first and make sure of what the problem really is. These injectors can short and arc from the inj solenoid to the nearest part of the intake, or the wire or plug can short and ground out. You said the PO installed new injectors before selling but that does NOT mean they are all good...we've all seen new parts fail prematurely. Thats why we invented warranty.
If you DO happen to need replacements I'd call Jon at FIC and see if he can help. A full replacement set of Bosch-III injectors of the most recent design will cost you $250 with all the gaskets, O-rings for the fuel rails and Jons ph number for any questions. His service is outstanding and everyone here has brought from him atr some point. Most of the so called "speed shops" can;t even come close to price for all that stuff...The sell in the 4 to $800 area for that inj "kit" that Jon offers for about $250..or less.
Ohms ea inj.
isolate the bad one.
Move plugs around to see if problem moves.
Pull dipstick to check for excess gas.
Pull fuel regulator vac line to see if its wet with gas. (the other way this happens)
Call Jon.
Hope this helps
VERY COMMON.
Ohms test all the driver side injectors. 16 is the goal number...less than 12 is junk. Do this hot and cold if possible.
Lets explain the way they work to understand how to fix.....
This is a single fuel injection circuit in the ECM that is split IN the ECM into 2 pathways, each with its own fuse. So you now have 2 inj circuits FROM the ECM out to the engine bay.
One goes to driver side (left) other to passenger (right side).
Each side now splits into 4 wires. Same for both sides. This is how you end up with 8 injectors plugs from a single inj control circuit.
Now the fun part...
This is a simple loop...a series where the hot wire jumps from one to the next. So the hot wire is hot all the time. Its the GROUND that the ECM uses to complete or open to tell the inj when to fire. And that ground path IS again the single circuit in the ECM so when the rt side gets a signal to fire all the inj on the rt side fire at the same time...regardless of where the intake valve is or what it is doing....same goes for the left side.
This is called "Bank-Fired" and the whole assy as a set of 8 is known as "Batch-Fired"..the whole batch fire.
The problem is that when any one injector gets shorted that short contaminates the whole bank..sometimes the batch. They all short and will stick open dumping fuel in the cyl at a scarey rate..The pan can actually over fill with gasoline if the engine does not explode from a hydrolock of gasoline first. Its serious.
If you d/c the #1 plug and it makes things settle down then its either the inj itself OR the plug, or wire to that inj. Trade it with the #3 inj and see if it moves. If it m oves then its the plug/wire. If the problem stays then its the #1 injector.
That noid lite is the best $10 tool thats ever been sold to the DIY guys working on EFI cars...great diagnostic aid. Almost as valuable as a FSM.
Do these test with caution....as I said before the risk of a hydro-lock is HUGE. IF you take a cyl thats completely flooded with fuel and try to start it....and another cylinder fires and makes a strong rotation of the crank at just the wrong time....that flooded cyl will break the piston or bend the rod...or worse.
I've seen liquid gasoline gush out of the tail pipes....not mist,...liquid. I had 2 gallons of oil and gasoline drain out of a crankcase once....all from a single shorted fuel injector. So if there is ANY doubt as to whats going on, pull the #1 plug and see if its wet and if it IS then proceed without that plug so the gas can blow out the hole and not destroy the rotating assy by hydrolocking.
This is an easy fix. Just do the proper diagnosis first and make sure of what the problem really is. These injectors can short and arc from the inj solenoid to the nearest part of the intake, or the wire or plug can short and ground out. You said the PO installed new injectors before selling but that does NOT mean they are all good...we've all seen new parts fail prematurely. Thats why we invented warranty.
If you DO happen to need replacements I'd call Jon at FIC and see if he can help. A full replacement set of Bosch-III injectors of the most recent design will cost you $250 with all the gaskets, O-rings for the fuel rails and Jons ph number for any questions. His service is outstanding and everyone here has brought from him atr some point. Most of the so called "speed shops" can;t even come close to price for all that stuff...The sell in the 4 to $800 area for that inj "kit" that Jon offers for about $250..or less.
Ohms ea inj.
isolate the bad one.
Move plugs around to see if problem moves.
Pull dipstick to check for excess gas.
Pull fuel regulator vac line to see if its wet with gas. (the other way this happens)
Call Jon.
Hope this helps
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,448
Likes: 27
From: Valparaiso
Call them
Fuel Injector Connection, LLC
4966 Wade Valley Way
Cumming, GA 30040
Tel: 770-888-1662
Jon at FIC http://fuelinjectorconnection.com
SEND FICINJECTORS A PM HERE
This video might be useful to you as well
Let us know !
Fuel Injector Connection, LLC
4966 Wade Valley Way
Cumming, GA 30040
Tel: 770-888-1662
Jon at FIC http://fuelinjectorconnection.com
SEND FICINJECTORS A PM HERE
This video might be useful to you as well
Let us know !
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
how did you test injectors, exactly? by "clip," I assume you refer to the harness connector, not the injector clip? if they were replaced, what led you to suspect them?
they all fire at once. if engine is running, the light should blink. but since they fire at the same time, no need to check them if engine is running. you check the HARNESS plug, not the injector.
listening to them is misleading. if you really suspect one, use an ohmmeter and check between the injector terminals. should read above 10, more like 15.
they all fire at once. if engine is running, the light should blink. but since they fire at the same time, no need to check them if engine is running. you check the HARNESS plug, not the injector.
listening to them is misleading. if you really suspect one, use an ohmmeter and check between the injector terminals. should read above 10, more like 15.
Thank You
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
As Jack & Joe have stated, you;re looking at a shorted injector OR harness.
VERY COMMON.
Ohms test all the driver side injectors. 16 is the goal number...less than 12 is junk. Do this hot and cold if possible.
Lets explain the way they work to understand how to fix.....
This is a single fuel injection circuit in the ECM that is split IN the ECM into 2 pathways, each with its own fuse. So you now have 2 inj circuits FROM the ECM out to the engine bay.
One goes to driver side (left) other to passenger (right side).
Each side now splits into 4 wires. Same for both sides. This is how you end up with 8 injectors plugs from a single inj control circuit.
Now the fun part...
This is a simple loop...a series where the hot wire jumps from one to the next. So the hot wire is hot all the time. Its the GROUND that the ECM uses to complete or open to tell the inj when to fire. And that ground path IS again the single circuit in the ECM so when the rt side gets a signal to fire all the inj on the rt side fire at the same time...regardless of where the intake valve is or what it is doing....same goes for the left side.
This is called "Bank-Fired" and the whole assy as a set of 8 is known as "Batch-Fired"..the whole batch fire.
The problem is that when any one injector gets shorted that short contaminates the whole bank..sometimes the batch. They all short and will stick open dumping fuel in the cyl at a scarey rate..The pan can actually over fill with gasoline if the engine does not explode from a hydrolock of gasoline first. Its serious.
If you d/c the #1 plug and it makes things settle down then its either the inj itself OR the plug, or wire to that inj. Trade it with the #3 inj and see if it moves. If it m oves then its the plug/wire. If the problem stays then its the #1 injector.
That noid lite is the best $10 tool thats ever been sold to the DIY guys working on EFI cars...great diagnostic aid. Almost as valuable as a FSM.
Do these test with caution....as I said before the risk of a hydro-lock is HUGE. IF you take a cyl thats completely flooded with fuel and try to start it....and another cylinder fires and makes a strong rotation of the crank at just the wrong time....that flooded cyl will break the piston or bend the rod...or worse.
I've seen liquid gasoline gush out of the tail pipes....not mist,...liquid. I had 2 gallons of oil and gasoline drain out of a crankcase once....all from a single shorted fuel injector. So if there is ANY doubt as to whats going on, pull the #1 plug and see if its wet and if it IS then proceed without that plug so the gas can blow out the hole and not destroy the rotating assy by hydrolocking.
This is an easy fix. Just do the proper diagnosis first and make sure of what the problem really is. These injectors can short and arc from the inj solenoid to the nearest part of the intake, or the wire or plug can short and ground out. You said the PO installed new injectors before selling but that does NOT mean they are all good...we've all seen new parts fail prematurely. Thats why we invented warranty.
If you DO happen to need replacements I'd call Jon at FIC and see if he can help. A full replacement set of Bosch-III injectors of the most recent design will cost you $250 with all the gaskets, O-rings for the fuel rails and Jons ph number for any questions. His service is outstanding and everyone here has brought from him atr some point. Most of the so called "speed shops" can;t even come close to price for all that stuff...The sell in the 4 to $800 area for that inj "kit" that Jon offers for about $250..or less.
Ohms ea inj.
isolate the bad one.
Move plugs around to see if problem moves.
Pull dipstick to check for excess gas.
Pull fuel regulator vac line to see if its wet with gas. (the other way this happens)
Call Jon.
Hope this helps
VERY COMMON.
Ohms test all the driver side injectors. 16 is the goal number...less than 12 is junk. Do this hot and cold if possible.
Lets explain the way they work to understand how to fix.....
This is a single fuel injection circuit in the ECM that is split IN the ECM into 2 pathways, each with its own fuse. So you now have 2 inj circuits FROM the ECM out to the engine bay.
One goes to driver side (left) other to passenger (right side).
Each side now splits into 4 wires. Same for both sides. This is how you end up with 8 injectors plugs from a single inj control circuit.
Now the fun part...
This is a simple loop...a series where the hot wire jumps from one to the next. So the hot wire is hot all the time. Its the GROUND that the ECM uses to complete or open to tell the inj when to fire. And that ground path IS again the single circuit in the ECM so when the rt side gets a signal to fire all the inj on the rt side fire at the same time...regardless of where the intake valve is or what it is doing....same goes for the left side.
This is called "Bank-Fired" and the whole assy as a set of 8 is known as "Batch-Fired"..the whole batch fire.
The problem is that when any one injector gets shorted that short contaminates the whole bank..sometimes the batch. They all short and will stick open dumping fuel in the cyl at a scarey rate..The pan can actually over fill with gasoline if the engine does not explode from a hydrolock of gasoline first. Its serious.
If you d/c the #1 plug and it makes things settle down then its either the inj itself OR the plug, or wire to that inj. Trade it with the #3 inj and see if it moves. If it m oves then its the plug/wire. If the problem stays then its the #1 injector.
That noid lite is the best $10 tool thats ever been sold to the DIY guys working on EFI cars...great diagnostic aid. Almost as valuable as a FSM.
Do these test with caution....as I said before the risk of a hydro-lock is HUGE. IF you take a cyl thats completely flooded with fuel and try to start it....and another cylinder fires and makes a strong rotation of the crank at just the wrong time....that flooded cyl will break the piston or bend the rod...or worse.
I've seen liquid gasoline gush out of the tail pipes....not mist,...liquid. I had 2 gallons of oil and gasoline drain out of a crankcase once....all from a single shorted fuel injector. So if there is ANY doubt as to whats going on, pull the #1 plug and see if its wet and if it IS then proceed without that plug so the gas can blow out the hole and not destroy the rotating assy by hydrolocking.
This is an easy fix. Just do the proper diagnosis first and make sure of what the problem really is. These injectors can short and arc from the inj solenoid to the nearest part of the intake, or the wire or plug can short and ground out. You said the PO installed new injectors before selling but that does NOT mean they are all good...we've all seen new parts fail prematurely. Thats why we invented warranty.
If you DO happen to need replacements I'd call Jon at FIC and see if he can help. A full replacement set of Bosch-III injectors of the most recent design will cost you $250 with all the gaskets, O-rings for the fuel rails and Jons ph number for any questions. His service is outstanding and everyone here has brought from him atr some point. Most of the so called "speed shops" can;t even come close to price for all that stuff...The sell in the 4 to $800 area for that inj "kit" that Jon offers for about $250..or less.
Ohms ea inj.
isolate the bad one.
Move plugs around to see if problem moves.
Pull dipstick to check for excess gas.
Pull fuel regulator vac line to see if its wet with gas. (the other way this happens)
Call Jon.
Hope this helps
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
I tested the injector with the Nod light on the clip and pluged in to the injector by sticking the pointed part in the harness wire's individualy going to the injector's all 8 just make the light go to red at all times not blink with the pulse. In my short expierances you look at the newest parts put on the car and work backwards..LOL I figured the PO must have had a problem if they are all new. Ill check the OHM's like you said.
Thank You
Thank You
maybe another senior moment. but the light terminals attach to the harness plug terminals, not the clip. when ecm grounds the green'blue wires, light should blink.book says to unplug all harness connectors from injectors. use a light, noid light -I don' thave one- or test light. ck one each side while cranking -not running. if light blinks, ecm is firring injectors ok. that's what it says. I have verified it many times on my 91.
from that, if light blinks, you check ohms on injectors. if it does not, you are in deep doo doo!
from what you have reported, I am not pointing to injectors.
joe
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
go by the fsm. not sure even now what you did! maybe another senior moment. but the light terminals attach to the harness plug terminals, not the clip. when ecm grounds the green'blue wires, light should blink.
book says to unplug all harness connectors from injectors. use a light, noid light -I don' thave one- or test light. ck one each side while cranking -not running. if light blinks, ecm is firring injectors ok. that's what it says. I have verified it many times on my 91.
from that, if light blinks, you check ohms on injectors. if it does not, you are in deep doo doo!
from what you have reported, I am not pointing to injectors.
joe
maybe another senior moment. but the light terminals attach to the harness plug terminals, not the clip. when ecm grounds the green'blue wires, light should blink.book says to unplug all harness connectors from injectors. use a light, noid light -I don' thave one- or test light. ck one each side while cranking -not running. if light blinks, ecm is firring injectors ok. that's what it says. I have verified it many times on my 91.
from that, if light blinks, you check ohms on injectors. if it does not, you are in deep doo doo!
from what you have reported, I am not pointing to injectors.
joe
I OHMed the #1 injector it was at 03 so I removed it Now it is at 17..
I did the rest of the injectors and they are all within 8-16 one of them is at 8 I am going to replace the #1 first and hope the 8ohm will work till next week?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Thank you for the reply Joe, I dont know how to test the TPI injectors with the nod light, on the LS1's you can stick the probe down in the clip with the car running and the clip still on the Injector and it will blink with the tick of the injector?
I OHMed the #1 injector it was at 03 so I removed it Now it is at 17..
I did the rest of the injectors and they are all within 8-16 one of them is at 8 I am going to replace the #1 first and hope the 8ohm will work till next week?
I OHMed the #1 injector it was at 03 so I removed it Now it is at 17..
I did the rest of the injectors and they are all within 8-16 one of them is at 8 I am going to replace the #1 first and hope the 8ohm will work till next week?
this is a little more complicated than it appears...
1st there is no way to check the inj when its not running since the inj pulse comes from the ECM as a cycle. You can see power but thats all when its not running. IF its is running then checking the inj means very little...they work or not. If its running then you can use the mechanics stetiscope (sp??) to listen for each inj tik...easy and its LOUD thru a tube !
S the 8 inj are confirmed to be operating. That does NOT mean that one is not fully functional...thats where the ohms test will show a weak or slow injector.
Usually one that has a short in the inj solenoid OR the inj harness will NOT be ticking...it'll be silent..usually. BUT again, the engine has to be running to know that.
There is not much that can be learned from a non running engine other than ohms...power...sure. Its the ECM< ground path that matters. Inj will not fire unless the ECM gets a signal from the dist to indicate that the engine is/wants to run. The inj driver does not get permission until it hears from the distributer.
The last time I shopped for a noid lite there were different makes for different applications...GM, Accura, Dogies, Fords etc. Most even had specific makes they fit. IIRC the one I had (lost) fit in the plug then onto the inj so it was inline.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
Thank you for the reply Joe, I dont know how to test the TPI injectors with the nod light, on the LS1's you can stick the probe down in the clip with the car running and the clip still on the Injector and it will blink with the tick of the injector?
I OHMed the #1 injector it was at 03 so I removed it Now it is at 17..
I did the rest of the injectors and they are all within 8-16 one of them is at 8 I am going to replace the #1 first and hope the 8ohm will work till next week?
I OHMed the #1 injector it was at 03 so I removed it Now it is at 17..
I did the rest of the injectors and they are all within 8-16 one of them is at 8 I am going to replace the #1 first and hope the 8ohm will work till next week?
you test #1 at 03, removed it, now it is 17.
you removed the injector, or what? how did it go from 03 to 17? replacing injectors is a 6 hour job, so you can see my confusion.
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
You can get the #1 injector out by removing the bolt's (or backing them out as much as posible) on the rails and upper plenum then picking up the plenum 1/2 inch and the injector #1 pops out, watched it on youtube.. Then did it..lol The #1 is the only one you can get out!!! LOL I took it out of the rails and it ohms 17 now? I did break down and remove the rail to replace the other injector that was at 8 ohms It took me about 2 hours to pull the plenum and get the rails out, Injectors on order.. I dont understand how it went from 03 to 17, I did smack it on my hand.. but wtf?
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
Well,
this is a little more complicated than it appears...
1st there is no way to check the inj when its not running since the inj pulse comes from the ECM as a cycle. You can see power but thats all when its not running. IF its is running then checking the inj means very little...they work or not. If its running then you can use the mechanics stetiscope (sp??) to listen for each inj tik...easy and its LOUD thru a tube !
S the 8 inj are confirmed to be operating. That does NOT mean that one is not fully functional...thats where the ohms test will show a weak or slow injector.
Usually one that has a short in the inj solenoid OR the inj harness will NOT be ticking...it'll be silent..usually. BUT again, the engine has to be running to know that.
There is not much that can be learned from a non running engine other than ohms...power...sure. Its the ECM< ground path that matters. Inj will not fire unless the ECM gets a signal from the dist to indicate that the engine is/wants to run. The inj driver does not get permission until it hears from the distributer.
The last time I shopped for a noid lite there were different makes for different applications...GM, Accura, Dogies, Fords etc. Most even had specific makes they fit. IIRC the one I had (lost) fit in the plug then onto the inj so it was inline.
this is a little more complicated than it appears...
1st there is no way to check the inj when its not running since the inj pulse comes from the ECM as a cycle. You can see power but thats all when its not running. IF its is running then checking the inj means very little...they work or not. If its running then you can use the mechanics stetiscope (sp??) to listen for each inj tik...easy and its LOUD thru a tube !
S the 8 inj are confirmed to be operating. That does NOT mean that one is not fully functional...thats where the ohms test will show a weak or slow injector.
Usually one that has a short in the inj solenoid OR the inj harness will NOT be ticking...it'll be silent..usually. BUT again, the engine has to be running to know that.
There is not much that can be learned from a non running engine other than ohms...power...sure. Its the ECM< ground path that matters. Inj will not fire unless the ECM gets a signal from the dist to indicate that the engine is/wants to run. The inj driver does not get permission until it hears from the distributer.
The last time I shopped for a noid lite there were different makes for different applications...GM, Accura, Dogies, Fords etc. Most even had specific makes they fit. IIRC the one I had (lost) fit in the plug then onto the inj so it was inline.
I dont know, It works and blinks on my LS2 injectors when it is running?
I did ohm out all injectors most are at 16 one is at 8 and one is at 13.
not including the #1 at 03 ohms it is now at 17 but im going to change it out with the 8 ohm one as well.. Sound about right?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
You can get the #1 injector out by removing the bolt's (or backing them out as much as posible) on the rails and upper plenum then picking up the plenum 1/2 inch and the injector #1 pops out, watched it on youtube.. Then did it..lol The #1 is the only one you can get out!!! LOL I took it out of the rails and it ohms 17 now? I did break down and remove the rail to replace the other injector that was at 8 ohms It took me about 2 hours to pull the plenum and get the rails out, Injectors on order.. I dont understand how it went from 03 to 17, I did smack it on my hand.. but wtf?
my thoughts, exactly, fosho. you are one lucky guy! you find a solution to one specific injector on u-tube, and have the exact problem on your engine! but why go to that much work if you have to pull the rails anyway?
you should have just smacked the injectors.
I reckon you ordered from Jon, right?
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
"WTF?"
my thoughts, exactly, fosho. you are one lucky guy! you find a solution to one specific injector on u-tube, and have the exact problem on your engine! but why go to that much work if you have to pull the rails anyway?
you should have just smacked the injectors.
I reckon you ordered from Jon, right?
my thoughts, exactly, fosho. you are one lucky guy! you find a solution to one specific injector on u-tube, and have the exact problem on your engine! but why go to that much work if you have to pull the rails anyway?
you should have just smacked the injectors.
I reckon you ordered from Jon, right?
I was like sweet!!!!! then the #3 was low and I was like 
$HITTTTTT!!! I orderd them from the number gave to me for FIC..
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I think everybody walked right past ALL the other potential causes for the misfiring and burping...
you say you cleaned the MAF? thats so friggin fragile that its really not supposed to be touched. I don;pt care what anybody says...that wire is like the filement in a light bulb and will break just as easy if disturbed...besides, the 87 was self cleaning.
Now that we know that, did you check the MAF relays? A bad power relay will make it run like crap. This happened suddenly right? thats waht I'm getting from the original post?
Injectors don;t die like that. If this problem just started one day, then its not fuel injectors.
if the pressure is near right,. 40 psi, and the dist is right, it'll run fairly well with half the injectors ohms at 5. It won;t run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds but it will run and drive ok for street driving.
That being said, something failed or broke, IF this was a sudden onset. So, was it sudden? or was this something that started a while back and got worse and worse?
That matters...
you say you cleaned the MAF? thats so friggin fragile that its really not supposed to be touched. I don;pt care what anybody says...that wire is like the filement in a light bulb and will break just as easy if disturbed...besides, the 87 was self cleaning.
Now that we know that, did you check the MAF relays? A bad power relay will make it run like crap. This happened suddenly right? thats waht I'm getting from the original post?
Injectors don;t die like that. If this problem just started one day, then its not fuel injectors.
if the pressure is near right,. 40 psi, and the dist is right, it'll run fairly well with half the injectors ohms at 5. It won;t run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds but it will run and drive ok for street driving.
That being said, something failed or broke, IF this was a sudden onset. So, was it sudden? or was this something that started a while back and got worse and worse?
That matters...
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
I think everybody walked right past ALL the other potential causes for the misfiring and burping...
you say you cleaned the MAF? thats so friggin fragile that its really not supposed to be touched. I don;pt care what anybody says...that wire is like the filement in a light bulb and will break just as easy if disturbed...besides, the 87 was self cleaning.
Now that we know that, did you check the MAF relays? A bad power relay will make it run like crap. This happened suddenly right? thats waht I'm getting from the original post?
Injectors don;t die like that. If this problem just started one day, then its not fuel injectors.
if the pressure is near right,. 40 psi, and the dist is right, it'll run fairly well with half the injectors ohms at 5. It won;t run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds but it will run and drive ok for street driving.
That being said, something failed or broke, IF this was a sudden onset. So, was it sudden? or was this something that started a while back and got worse and worse?
That matters...
you say you cleaned the MAF? thats so friggin fragile that its really not supposed to be touched. I don;pt care what anybody says...that wire is like the filement in a light bulb and will break just as easy if disturbed...besides, the 87 was self cleaning.
Now that we know that, did you check the MAF relays? A bad power relay will make it run like crap. This happened suddenly right? thats waht I'm getting from the original post?
Injectors don;t die like that. If this problem just started one day, then its not fuel injectors.
if the pressure is near right,. 40 psi, and the dist is right, it'll run fairly well with half the injectors ohms at 5. It won;t run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds but it will run and drive ok for street driving.
That being said, something failed or broke, IF this was a sudden onset. So, was it sudden? or was this something that started a while back and got worse and worse?
That matters...
UPDATE: I put 2 good injectors (I bummed from the corvette center here in PHX) on while wating for the FIC set, changed the plugs again, it runs great when cold and way better hot but the #8 injector now ohms out at 14 cold and 8 hot and it was fine before?
It has a little roughness and surging when hot but once again if I unplug #8 it cleans up the Idle? studders on rev a bit but ramps up great? Can something be screwing up the injectors? I did chainged the fuell filter again and it was full of red crap looks like rust? I just dont want it to destroy the new injectors. I cant bitch I got it for $2,500 but I would like to drive it!!!!!!!
