How are you guys, after a coolant hose blew yesterday (because my fan was not working (will post another thread) i decided to swap them all for GoodYear's Hi Miler blue hoses.
I already have the TB Coolant bypass done.
This is my current setup :




I realized that both the intake are feeding with water
the oil cooler tube. So , is it a good idea if i run a hose
straight from the intake to the oil cooler tube and cap the water
pump pipe ? Or ....If i run a hose from the water pump pipe
straight to the oil cooler tube and i cap the intake.

Is this a good idea ? Which way is better?
Im inclined to cap the water pump and run the hose
straight from the intake to oil cooler tube.
But on the hand running a short hose from the waterpump
pipe to the oil cooler tube would look clean as well.

What you think ?
Thanks !

 

Oil cooler supply is the colder coolant from the fitting on LH side of block with the outlet to the water ( suction ) pump ;so coolant goes block, cooler, water pump ;
As you have drawn it above ,you have hot coolant from the intake going straight back to the block through the water pump bypassing the thermostat
(as well as the return coolant from oil cooler )

Run oil cooler return line direct to water pump , cap outlet on intake
Solved

 

Thanks !

 

Rod, i have a doubt , where is the oil cooler supply line ? that comes from the driver's side (right) of the block ? i cannot remember ...

so i have to run my water pump fitting straight to the 90 degree yellow (in the picture) tube.

Thanks

 

I think the original design was to get some HOT water for the heater core...thats why it taps a source thats not been thru the radiator yet. Thats the only real reason there is a small water exit on the intake sitting next to the big hose with the T-stat.

If you are willing to do without a heater then sure, go directly from oil cooler discharge to water pump inlet. You could put the heater in that loop somehow but it might suffer from slow to low heat output in the cabin.
There is always the option of heater bypass until winter months...just depends on how bad you want a couple degrees of improved cooling.

Oh yeah, the top end HAS to have the T-stat IF this heater bypass is done so there is some tension on the system. You must have some back pressure or the heads & intake will get hot spots or dry spots and risk cracks or warping. Thats what the small orifice does in the intake exit...slows the flow down so water stays full and backed up inside the top end.

I know I've hated that little mess of hose under the compressor bracket...not accessable and a haven for rub thru spots...I have tried a doz times to eliminate that mess with no success. I installed as much metal as possible to cut back on odd hoses but that T connection has to be hose no way around it and it almost has to be right there. For now mines all wrapped in a second heater hose for protection, but I;d sure like to just get rid of that mess...

The other option would be to route the cooler hose in a different place. You could go big and bend lots of tubing or use hose and double bag it and secure it around behind the block to the heater possibly? THEN a single line to the pump intake...

I wonder if anyone has made a manifold of sorts so these heater/cooler lines could join the big return line and go thru the radiator? a simple fitting would not be that difficult to make and add the hose just past the t-stat...just thinking outloud.

 

Most engines use some type of circulation plumbing for the heads and intake. The reason for this is to keep the coolant circulating through the heads and intake when the thermostate is closed. The heads are the hottest part of an engine due to the hot exhaust gasses passing through them. If coolant can not circulate through them when the stat is closed, then you get hot areas in the cylinder heads until the heat finally gets to the stat and opens it.

When the stat closes, there is still circulation occuring in the engine, just not through the radiator. When the stat opens, the circulation then goes through the radiator to exchange the hot coolant for cold(er) coolant.

Eliminating this ciculation loop is not a good idea. Eliminating the throttle body portion is not going to hurt anything, but won't improve anything either...other than making it easier to remove the throttle body in the future...but how often do you remove it anyways?

 

I'd leave the current routing you already had except maybe delete the oil cooler. I know it sounds weird to do away with the oil cooler, but unless you're running extended lengths of time at high rooms (4500+), then the oil cooler isn't needed.