Question about starting engine for 1st time
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Question about starting engine for 1st time
Finally got my LT4 rebuilt and am ready to put it in the car (96 ZF6). I would like to start the engine before installing the transmission/exhaust, etc. Is this possible? Will the motor mounts and a jack stand for the rear of the engine be enough to hold it in place? Or is this just something I should not do?
Will the computer allow it to start with the transmission disconnected (from the engine and the computer)?
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on starting the engine for the 1st time? I plan to pull the fuel relay and build up oil pressure before starting the 1st time. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help.
Will the computer allow it to start with the transmission disconnected (from the engine and the computer)?
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on starting the engine for the 1st time? I plan to pull the fuel relay and build up oil pressure before starting the 1st time. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
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Likes: 22
Whats the point?
Its never good to jury rig an engine much less a brand new one. It needs its computer control and it does NOT need cold air in the open exhaust ports after a run.
There is no point in doing this. Drop it in and bolt it up and start it when its ALL connected. Thats the right way and the only way as far as I'm concerned. Why take a chance when it can be done right?
The right way to pre-oil is to get an old dist shaft and grind the gear off so you can modify it to turn the oil pump only. Attach your drill to the top end and spin it to build oil pressure. The engine is full of assy lube anyway but it is nice to know that oil is flowing everywhere. Won;t hurt to have some marvel mystery oil in the gas for top end lube. I still do that every few thou miles... Maybe why I'm pushing 200K on this rebuild and no oil burning or bad pressure yet...
Its never good to jury rig an engine much less a brand new one. It needs its computer control and it does NOT need cold air in the open exhaust ports after a run.
There is no point in doing this. Drop it in and bolt it up and start it when its ALL connected. Thats the right way and the only way as far as I'm concerned. Why take a chance when it can be done right?
The right way to pre-oil is to get an old dist shaft and grind the gear off so you can modify it to turn the oil pump only. Attach your drill to the top end and spin it to build oil pressure. The engine is full of assy lube anyway but it is nice to know that oil is flowing everywhere. Won;t hurt to have some marvel mystery oil in the gas for top end lube. I still do that every few thou miles... Maybe why I'm pushing 200K on this rebuild and no oil burning or bad pressure yet...
Last edited by leesvet; Jul 31, 2012 at 06:01 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
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From: Texas
Finally got my LT4 rebuilt and am ready to put it in the car (96 ZF6). I would like to start the engine before installing the transmission/exhaust, etc. Is this possible? Will the motor mounts and a jack stand for the rear of the engine be enough to hold it in place? Or is this just something I should not do?
Will the computer allow it to start with the transmission disconnected (from the engine and the computer)?
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on starting the engine for the 1st time? I plan to pull the fuel relay and build up oil pressure before starting the 1st time. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help.
Will the computer allow it to start with the transmission disconnected (from the engine and the computer)?
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on starting the engine for the 1st time? I plan to pull the fuel relay and build up oil pressure before starting the 1st time. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help.
Please, for the Love of God, bolt the thing together. It'll start just fine. However, trying to balance a 500+ pound running engine on a jackstand and a block of wood on the oil pan or magnesium bell housing is not the most intelligent thing to do.If the intake is on the engine, you can prime it by turning it over as you've described since there is no distributor hole that allows you access to the oil pump. Personally, I prefer to pull the coil wire since residual fuel in the injectors will start the engine, albeit briefly.
If the intake is off the engine, you can remove the stub drive and then prime the engine using a drill and oil pump priming tool (available for rent/free at almost any autoparts store).
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Ha, point taken, I will put everything together before starting it. Just impatient after all this time. Got the engine put in the car tonight. Intake is already on, so I will just pull the coil wire, that is probably easiest. Thanks for the advise guys.
Please, for the Love of God, bolt the thing together. It'll start just fine. However, trying to balance a 500+ pound running engine on a jackstand and a block of wood on the oil pan or magnesium bell housing is not the most intelligent thing to do.
If the intake is on the engine, you can prime it by turning it over as you've described since there is no distributor hole that allows you access to the oil pump. Personally, I prefer to pull the coil wire since residual fuel in the injectors will start the engine, albeit briefly.
If the intake is off the engine, you can remove the stub drive and then prime the engine using a drill and oil pump priming tool (available for rent/free at almost any autoparts store).
Please, for the Love of God, bolt the thing together. It'll start just fine. However, trying to balance a 500+ pound running engine on a jackstand and a block of wood on the oil pan or magnesium bell housing is not the most intelligent thing to do.If the intake is on the engine, you can prime it by turning it over as you've described since there is no distributor hole that allows you access to the oil pump. Personally, I prefer to pull the coil wire since residual fuel in the injectors will start the engine, albeit briefly.
If the intake is off the engine, you can remove the stub drive and then prime the engine using a drill and oil pump priming tool (available for rent/free at almost any autoparts store).
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Riverside County Southern California
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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It will start. My 96 was on stands for 4 months and it started right away.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: San ANtonio Texas
Purchase an engine run stand. You can find a model that supports FI ( electric fuel pump and fuel return provisions). Makes sense if you are building more than one engines. Useful to find oil leaks and water leaks. You can work on your initial tune. Usually requires removing the computer and firewall harness from the car.
If you are just building one engine, take it to a dyno shop. Cost in my town is $500. About half the cost of an engine run stand.
If you are just building one engine, take it to a dyno shop. Cost in my town is $500. About half the cost of an engine run stand.
