Hi...

Sometimes when I try to start the car, it cranks but doesnt fire. If I leave it for a time its fine. Not an ideal situation!

Now occasionally whilst driving, the security light comes on So I am thinking (maybe too much? LOL) that the security gizmo might be the cause of occasional start problem?

Anyone experienced this, or have any advice?

I am in the process of getting the manual, but I dont have it yet, and here in Mexico there aren't any stores to get one. Likewise I dont have the owners manual.

Of course I am hoping for a quick fix...

PS This car even with this nuisance is brilliant!

 

I haven't heard of that one but I would check grounds. Something is loose or there is a bad connection somewhere.

 

Yes thats what I thought. A loose wire... But I have no idea which. Hmmm...

I forsee an auto electrician in my near future.

 

If you have another ignition key try it. Maybe the vats chip is worn out on the key you are using. My z28 did this and it was the key.

 

I dont have another key, the car only came with one. It doesnt look like there is a chip in the key but I guess there must be...

I will try to get a hold of a dealer. nearest one is 4 hour drive, plus will have little or no knowledge of these cars as they are rarer here than snow!

Thanks for the tip!

 

your security light came on while driving? the CCM reads the key for a split second, than sends signal to ecm to allow starting. doesn't read it until next cycle, the way I understand it. no reason to arm the security system while engine is in motion.

definitely not intended by the ccm.

 

Yes it flashed on a few times whilst driving. I arrived at my destination and stopped. Tried to move the car and it wouldn't start. Went back a while later and no problemo. There must be a loose wire to a door sensor or something???

 

What year is the car?
And before taking to an auto electrician....take some time and check around the engine compartment....look at the frame connections for corrision on the frame. Living by the ocean with the salt air is....well....you know the rest of that story.

Has there been an aftermarket alarm system installed?

Many things to check.

 

Good advice thanks. Car is a '93.

 

When the VATS system is working correctly it will disable the starter and fuel injectors. Sometimes people jumper out the starter enable relay, but you still need the ECM to see a valid VATS signal to enable the fuel injectors.

It's possible that your VATS system was bypassed or disabled. The ECM can be reprogrammed to remove the VATS test.

A VATS key looks like this. The resistor pellet is in the center of the key.

 

I do have a key exactly like that.

So this problem is likely not the VATS system otherwise it wouldn't crank?

Which brings me to where do I get another key like that? I guess it has to be programed to the car...

 

I still haven't had the electrics checked out (just had a hurricane pass through), but here the total lack of Corvettes makes me wary of the mechanics knowledge... Then again imagine you had the only convertible Corvette in your state. Yeah. Nice!

So I have discovered that either by freak coincidence or whatever, as long as my door is in the lock position, the car starts first turn.

I don't know if this is just luck, but if you're having start/ security light problems, it works for me...

 

You can get blank keys from eBay or order from a parts catalog. What you do is measure the resistance on your current key, and then make sure you order the correct number key to match your car.

CODE RESISTOR VALUE IN OHMS

1 402
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800

 

Thank you very much.

 

The security system is turned off by unlocking the door with the key. There is a switch on the lock. The switch could be dirty, loose, bad connections, etc.

If you have a key fob that unlocks the car then its receiver box is supposed to do the same function as the door switch.

 

Ah...

I don't have the fob... I always use the key. So time to look for the fob!
The "Search" box is my friend...

 

Before you spend money on a remote, go through the programming procedure (in the owners manual) and make sure everything works as it says right up until you need a fob. Lots of members have bought an expensive fob (about $130 US) to find out the receiver in the car is no longer working. If you don't have the owners manual you can get a softcopy free.

(P.S. I love Playa. My favorite vacation destination.)

 

Hi Mexc4,

Frequently the door switches create odd happenings with the alarm, radio, hatch, etc as they provide input to the CCM which then controls lots of things based on the door switch 'state' (CCM diagnostics can also be invoked to troubleshoot the switches electrical operations).

Are the door switche working correctly? i.e. when you open the door, do the internal lights go on and radio, if on, go off, and the security light start to blink?

Also a another symptom of door switches being problematic -- do the door locks cycle(make noise) and the dome light flicker while driving?

The door switch(s) fail in 1 of 3 ways:
1 - electrically -- either don't open the circuit (when door closed), or don't close the circuit (when door is open) - must be replaced, but good news, its easy, see below.
2. - mechanically - stuck or sticking while pushed-in -- can lubricate, but ONLY with vaseline -- anything else will swell the plastic.
3. - self-adjusting 'nose' is pushed in and or won't stay extended. A small screwdriver can pry 'nose' out, or very smal o-rings (NAPA) can be put on its shaft to keep it extended.

FYI, If the door switch(s) need to be replaced, they can be done right through the switch hole and do NOT require door disasembly. Documented in FSM or do a search or post back for procedure.

 

Great! I will start this tomorrow afternoon...