C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Upper Ball Joints

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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:14 PM
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Default Upper Ball Joints

I have to replace both of the upper balljoints in my 93 LT1 coupe. I have read that Corvette Recyclers has the upper arm assembly, but it is $100 more than the ball joint by itself. I also have to buy a set of tires so money is a little tight. Is it worth the additional $100 (times 2) for the upper arm assembly vs just replacing the ball joints? It looks like the lowers are the PIA to replace, not so much the uppers. It has been a long time since I have had to replace a ball joint. Where is the upper ball joint pressed in, the control arm or spindle (or both)? If it is pressed in the spindle, it seems I will have to deal with that either way and I will only have to cut the rivets to take the joint out of the upper arm. Will I need a press or can I tap it out? I would really like to save $200, but not if it is going to take me all weekend.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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Save the $200. Drill out the rivets and bolt in your new upper joints.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wschmidt
IWhere is the upper ball joint pressed in, the control arm or spindle (or both)?


The Factory Service Manual shows all this stuff clear as day. It'll be the best $100 you've ever spent since you're not buying NOS control arms
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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The advantage of the NOS control arms is that you'll also get NOS control arm bushings, which are a big contributor to improved ride quality after front-end work.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Your choice on if it's worthwhile or not. I've done the 2 upper ball joints - it takes a little while - but it isn't hard to do. Drill out the center of the rivets, but don't drill out all the rivet material out (if you don't drill perfectly down the centerline, you will drill the upper control arm) - then use a punch to drive the remaining part of the old rivet out. The new ball joints have good old fashined nuts and bolts.

If you do it - just take your time and go slow.

It's a nice time to put poly bushings in the upper arms, but that is a bit trickier to do...
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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you most likely will need a balljoint fork to force the tapered stud out of the spindle. Not a difficult job. Good luck with it.
Dave
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Just got it back from the inspection and it looks like there are already nuts and bolts in there so the decision just got a lot easier. Tires are going to be ~$900 after installation, balance, alignment, etc so I can really use the $200. Thanks for the advice guys.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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Just for the record, the lower ball joint takes most of the punishment. THe uppers are basically "locators" for the top of the spindles.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Just for the record, the lower ball joint takes most of the punishment. THe uppers are basically "locators" for the top of the spindles.
Is that why some aftermarket ball joints come with a plate to sandwich the aluminum arm and some don't?

The ones I bought had nuts and bolts, but no gasket or spacer plate as shown in the picture of some of the Moog or AC Delco brands. So does the plate do anything for you as far as safety or is it just there to prevent gouging the aluminum?
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