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I just purchased a C4 rear end for a street rod- By the batwing it appears to be 84-87-Are there any markings on the differential that will tell exactly what year it is? The red tag is still on the side- Thanks
The "as built" information should be etched on the bottom of the unit BUT I would think that since it's for a "build" I'd likely separate the cover from the housing to inspect the condition of the rear. When you do that you can confirm the ratio, and if it's the original build the information will be on the ring gear.
You purchased this "blind"? Didn't know ratio, D36 or D44 before the buy? Seems odd!
The "as built" information should be etched on the bottom of the unit BUT I would think that since it's for a "build" I'd likely separate the cover from the housing to inspect the condition of the rear. When you do that you can confirm the ratio, and if it's the original build the information will be on the ring gear.
You purchased this "blind"? Didn't know ratio, D36 or D44 before the buy? Seems odd!
The fellow that had it ( on ebay ) didn't know-I presumed it to be a Dana 36--I'll be changing the gears and rebuilding it , so it really didn't matter-it is complete-I'll be running an automatic -so it should be OK-Was wanting to be able to determine the year-for parts-It's going in a 33 Chevrolet convertible
The fellow that had it ( on ebay ) didn't know-I presumed it to be a Dana 36--I'll be changing the gears and rebuilding it , so it really didn't matter-it is complete-I'll be running an automatic -so it should be OK-Was wanting to be able to determine the year-for parts-It's going in a 33 Chevrolet convertible
If it's a D36 the "service parts" are not a problem. Now changing the gear can get complicated, if it's a 2 series gear you'll either need a 3-series case to get into the 3's or you'll need a "thick gear" package. The ratios are pretty limited these days. Maybe 3.54 and 3.73 for "thick gears"! What ratio were you intending?
I'm guessing your buy was for a "complete" with hubs, suspension etc? You're bolting the front of the housing (at the pinion) to a fixed bracket in your chassis? Are you using the complete "bat-wing" or modifying that also for attachment to the chassis?
If it's a D36 the "service parts" are not a problem. Now changing the gear can get complicated, if it's a 2 series gear you'll either need a 3-series case to get into the 3's or you'll need a "thick gear" package. The ratios are pretty limited these days. Maybe 3.54 and 3.73 for "thick gears"! What ratio were you intending?
I'm guessing your buy was for a "complete" with hubs, suspension etc? You're bolting the front of the housing (at the pinion) to a fixed bracket in your chassis? Are you using the complete "bat-wing" or modifying that also for attachment to the chassis?
I'll be using the complete batwing and a cast aluminum torque arm from Newman Car creations-I'd like to run at least 3.70 's---I'd run 4.11's if I could-I'll be running a 700R4
I'll be using the complete batwing and a cast aluminum torque arm from Newman Car creations-I'd like to run at least 3.70 's---I'd run 4.11's if I could-I'll be running a 700R4
Paul does some real nice stuff and is a great guy to do business with. I've done some D44 parts transactions with him.
You should be good with a 3.70 in a thick gear and for the D36 you should only need 6 bearings, 3 seals and some shims. It's usually a package and will cost $110 or so. I'd do a clutch pack, pinion washers, pinion shaft for the posi and it should be "as new"! I haven't bought pinion washers and a shaft for a D36 in a long while. They're often overlooked in a build and might be harder to find.
When will you have the rear?
If you wanted to do this with a D44, I've a new housing, new bat-wing, new differential, a choice of 3.54, 3.73 or a 4.10 gear. It's all either NOS or New Dana brand stuff. Not inexpensive but quite sound stuff. Being NOS the housing and the bat-wing would be very easy to "POLISH"!!
I'm quite sure I've left and right hubs/spindles etc also.