'91 700R4 TV Cable Question/Shift Issue Still
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'91 700R4 TV Cable Question/Shift Issue Still
My '91 I bot recently has a square button (instead of half round) on the TV cable and it doesn't seem to be very tight after I set it, is it possible it is the wrong cable? I bot the car with a shift issue and I'm still trying to see if I can narrow down what the issue is. Pan was relatively clean (usual mud on magnet). I'm going to say it stays in 2nd because I can move the shift lever to 1st and it drops down. It has shifted a few times for me after I have reset the cable, but only for a few minutes.
I think I am getting down to either spending way too much to have someone else (hopefully) fix it , or pulling the valve body and trying to figure out if anything is wrong there. Should I connect a pressure gage 1st and ck pressure?
I think I am getting down to either spending way too much to have someone else (hopefully) fix it , or pulling the valve body and trying to figure out if anything is wrong there. Should I connect a pressure gage 1st and ck pressure?
Last edited by cimchazz1; Aug 20, 2012 at 12:17 AM. Reason: add info
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I have seen TV cables with a rectangular plastic button. I believe those are aftermarket. The one I played with seemed pretty good (the spring was strong, which is the important thing -- it needs to hold the cable housing securely).
Le Mans Master
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From: Bangkok, Thailand
Here is my thread about this from earlier this year: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...djustment.html
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Wow, thanks, that looks EXACTLY like my '91, including the TV (not television) cable, (except for the nice injectors, which I need to replace on mine). But I wasn't so lucky after the adjustment, my trans still seems to start in 2nd and stay there. So I am now assuming somebody changed the TV cable and the fluid and filter awhile ago because there was 1 american thread pan bolt that someone put in and stripped a thread (I have found that whenever someone else has worked on something I have, it's usually screwed up worse than it was to start). But thanks for the info, I am thinking the next step is to drop the pan again and pull the valve body, something I have never done before, but the alternative is hearing some trans shop tell me I need a $1500.00 trans rebuild, I guess, so what do I have to lose, right?? I'm trying not to disturb the exhaust system if possible, though.
Le Mans Master
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From: Bangkok, Thailand
Wow, thanks, that looks EXACTLY like my '91, including the TV (not television) cable, (except for the nice injectors, which I need to replace on mine). But I wasn't so lucky after the adjustment, my trans still seems to start in 2nd and stay there. So I am now assuming somebody changed the TV cable and the fluid and filter awhile ago because there was 1 american thread pan bolt that someone put in and stripped a thread (I have found that whenever someone else has worked on something I have, it's usually screwed up worse than it was to start). But thanks for the info, I am thinking the next step is to drop the pan again and pull the valve body, something I have never done before, but the alternative is hearing some trans shop tell me I need a $1500.00 trans rebuild, I guess, so what do I have to lose, right?? I'm trying not to disturb the exhaust system if possible, though.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...ale-400-a.html
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Thanks, Michigan. Maybe I will attempt to drop the valve body and see if anything looks to be stuck or missing, I get the feeling it's a valve body issue. Of course, I should probably get a good 700R4 service manual 1st, any suggestions on what to look at in the VB besides the TV (not television)?
Last edited by cimchazz1; Aug 20, 2012 at 06:35 PM. Reason: add info
Le Mans Master
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When I had my trans rebuilt for the second time the trans shop could not adjust the cable and wanted to replace the valve body.I brought it to Vette Doctors , they adjusted the cables, had to start from scratch which seems to be the only way, the trans shop was messing around with the the throttle cable only. get it fixed soon or you will trash the tranny for sure...Cost me $100.00...after spending $1000.00 on a rebuild..but I didn't care as it runs great now.
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St. Jude Donor '15
sounds like my story
I think you have to remove exhaust to replace the cable with a new one. What did the shop charge to replace yours? dd
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Wish there was a place like Vette Doctors in the Detroit Metro area, I don't know who I can trust around here , I'd gladly pay 100 bucks to have my trans shifting properly. I usually do my own work, but I have never done auto trans work. Right now I am suspecting there is a problem in the valve body. I'd rather take it to someone who knows what they are doing and won't rip me off, but have no idea who that might be, so I will learn how to do this myself, I guess. Any suggestions on what the best valve body repair kit might be for a '91 700R4 in a daily driver?
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The TV cable adjustment should take 30 seconds and you don't need any tools, so there's no reason not to do it.
This is a TV cable bracket for a carburetor, but the picture is so good that I like to use it (the cable itself is the same):
(1) Push in on the D-shaped button with your right thumb (could be a rectangular plastic button if it's an aftermarket cable).
(2) Push the plastic cable housing to the rear (away from the throttle body) -- left forefinger and thumb in the picture.
(3) Release the lock button.
(4) Turn the throttle valve to the maximum open position (WOT). The cable housing will click several times as it comes out of the adjuster. Make sure the throttle is all the way open and the lever hits the stop.
When you're done the steel cable should be straight and tight (NOT saggy like the one in the link posted earlier):
This is a TV cable bracket for a carburetor, but the picture is so good that I like to use it (the cable itself is the same):
(1) Push in on the D-shaped button with your right thumb (could be a rectangular plastic button if it's an aftermarket cable).
(2) Push the plastic cable housing to the rear (away from the throttle body) -- left forefinger and thumb in the picture.
(3) Release the lock button.
(4) Turn the throttle valve to the maximum open position (WOT). The cable housing will click several times as it comes out of the adjuster. Make sure the throttle is all the way open and the lever hits the stop.
When you're done the steel cable should be straight and tight (NOT saggy like the one in the link posted earlier):
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
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The TV cable adjustment should take 30 seconds and you don't need any tools, so there's no reason not to do it.
This is a TV cable bracket for a carburetor, but the picture is so good that I like to use it (the cable itself is the same):
(1) Push in on the D-shaped button with your right thumb (could be a rectangular plastic button if it's an aftermarket cable).
(2) Push the plastic cable housing to the rear (away from the throttle body) -- left forefinger and thumb in the picture.
(3) Release the lock button.
(4) Turn the throttle valve to the maximum open position (WOT). The cable housing will click several times as it comes out of the adjuster. Make sure the throttle is all the way open and the lever hits the stop.
When you're done the steel cable should be straight and tight (NOT saggy like the one in the link posted earlier):
This is a TV cable bracket for a carburetor, but the picture is so good that I like to use it (the cable itself is the same):
(1) Push in on the D-shaped button with your right thumb (could be a rectangular plastic button if it's an aftermarket cable).
(2) Push the plastic cable housing to the rear (away from the throttle body) -- left forefinger and thumb in the picture.
(3) Release the lock button.
(4) Turn the throttle valve to the maximum open position (WOT). The cable housing will click several times as it comes out of the adjuster. Make sure the throttle is all the way open and the lever hits the stop.
When you're done the steel cable should be straight and tight (NOT saggy like the one in the link posted earlier):