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I'm gonna be putting in a new clutch. I've pretty much narrowed my choices down to the Spec Stage 2 or a Centerforce Dual Friction. The car is an 89 with built motor. I'm pushing about 310 hp and 389 ft-lbs at the rear wheels. I have the single mass flywheel already. I think it has the Spec Stage 2 in there now, though I am not sure as the previous owner did it before. My old 88 had the Centerforce dual friction and I liked it better than what's in my 89 now, but I don't know how it will handle the power my 89 makes (my 88 was more mildly built).
I don't race at all but I do drive it hard sometimes when I get out on deserted back roads. Any thoughts on my choices? Any other recommended options?
And why do you need a spec 2 on about 310 fwhp that's about 260 rwhp
If my stock clutch can. lol somewhat hold my current setup. I'm thinking your good to go
Torque can help kill a clutch too........hp is a just a function of torque over the RPM range....alot of clutch damage results upon launching of a car.....that's what moves the car from the launch.....torque
The spec 2 is a good choice even for mild builds but the torque rating you have may be good for the spec stage 2. I run the Spec Stage 2 and so far it has provided the best results of anything I used before with driveability/durability.
What is included in the "anything you've used before"?
Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
And why do you need a spec 2 on about 310 fwhp that's about 260 rwhp
If my stock clutch can. lol somewhat hold my current setup. I'm thinking your good to go
Originally Posted by Leftoverture
The car is an 89 with built motor. I'm pushing about 310 hp and 389 ft-lbs at the rear wheels.
"At the rear wheels"....which is ~370hp/450tq at the crank. Although a stock clutch MAY hold that fine for the intended use, I'd probably look to upgrade too.
What is included in the "anything you've used before"?
"At the rear wheels"....which is ~370hp/450tq at the crank. Although a stock clutch MAY hold that fine for the intended use, I'd probably look to upgrade too.
Yep...the previous owner upgraded because the stock clutch wouldn't handle the current set up. I don't know exactly what's in there now because the invoice only says "perf clutch". But the PO said it's kevlar.
I'm running a Stage 1 SPEC in my 89 pushing 322 rwhp and 345 rwtq. It's a road race car, so I don't use it on the street at all, but it holds the power just fine.
I'm running a Stage 1 SPEC in my 89 pushing 322 rwhp and 345 rwtq. It's a road race car, so I don't use it on the street at all, but it holds the power just fine.
I would estimate out 100 miles so far. I've never had any slipping or chatter issues at all. I didn't have anywhere to drive it for 500 miles for break-in so I'm just careful about how much I slip it, though with the aluminum FW, you do have to slip it a bit more in order to not stall the car.
What is included in the "anything you've used before"?
"At the rear wheels"....which is ~370hp/450tq at the crank. Although a stock clutch MAY hold that fine for the intended use, I'd probably look to upgrade too.
I originally after my build had a stock Valeo set up; grenaded that thing way too fast...
then to RAM puck style; that shook the car so violently in reverse gear when slipping the clutch out (espcially on an inclined surface) it would be a matter of time before the whole car was in pieces.....
this SPEC II set up has been a great compromise between a grabby clutch and durability/driveability.
So I ordered a Zoom clutch that was specced identical to the Spec Stage 2, but I could get it faster so I went for the Zoom. It showed up with the throw out bearing destroyed due to poor packaging. Returned it and now have ordered the Spec Stage 2 I wanted in the first place. My effort to save time and get the car back on the road has resulted in a lost week. The driving season in MN is too short for that to happen.
856Speed - you're running the Spec Stage 2. How long is the break in period and what are they recommending as far as how you drive during that period? I'm running the steel FW so hopefully chatter won't be an issue.
So I ordered a Zoom clutch that was specced identical to the Spec Stage 2, but I could get it faster so I went for the Zoom. It showed up with the throw out bearing destroyed due to poor packaging. Returned it and now have ordered the Spec Stage 2 I wanted in the first place. My effort to save time and get the car back on the road has resulted in a lost week. The driving season in MN is too short for that to happen.
856Speed - you're running the Spec Stage 2. How long is the break in period and what are they recommending as far as how you drive during that period? I'm running the steel FW so hopefully chatter won't be an issue.
Well,
Tom at Carolina Clutch told me to give it a 500 mile break in period wereby he called for "easy driving." No hard launches, hard exceleration pulls, etc..etc....also try to make stop and go trips here and there and combine it with highway driving....basically didn't want me to hammer the thing for 500 miles.........not sure I followed all of that but for the most part I did; I take care of my car since I have a few bucks in it.....understatement.....
You will have better driveability with the steel FW....the steel FW makes it a little easier to move off the line without higher revs.....I actually have a steel FW in storage....may go to that one day, but the aluminum FW has it's advantages too.......
Tom at Carolina Clutch told me to give it a 500 mile break in period wereby he called for "easy driving." No hard launches, hard exceleration pulls, etc..etc....also try to make stop and go trips here and there and combine it with highway driving....basically didn't want me to hammer the thing for 500 miles.........not sure I followed all of that but for the most part I did; I take care of my car since I have a few bucks in it.....understatement.....
You will have better driveability with the steel FW....the steel FW makes it a little easier to move off the line without higher revs.....I actually have a steel FW in storage....may go to that one day, but the aluminum FW has it's advantages too.......
You will like the SPEC clutch! I hope!
Thanks for the info. I drive 50 miles each way to work. Mostly highway but with some stop n go. I figured 5 trips to work and back and I'll be through the break in period in no time. But there probably isn't as much stop n go as would be recommended. Not hammering on it for 500 miles will be hard, though.
The clutch that was in there was a kevlar disc. Not 100% sure of the brand, but it may have been the stage 2. I got pretty used to it with no real driveability issues...until it went bye, bye on me, of course. So I'm not expecting to have any real issues.
I've had good luck with it, but I don't get to the drags very often or things like that....I run it with a Fidanza alum. FW with no issues at all (so far) and I have had this clutch for a while......
I think you will like it......may be a little chatter when slipping it out but not anything crazy or something you can't live with.....
I'll continue this thread with a shout out to Enjuku Racing out of Florida. They somehow managed to get my Spec Stage 2 parts to me a day earlier than promised! With a little luck I'll be able to end this thread tonight with a report on how well the parts work! It'll sure be nice to be behind the wheel of my Vette again.
Well, I managed to get 75 miles on my new Spec Stage 2 clutch already. My driving consisted of a 50/50 mix of surface streets and freeways. Lots of start/stops and shifting with all the rush hour traffic I navigated. It works flawlessly! No chatter, take up is perfectly smooth. Overall, I'm satisfied and sure glad to have my Vette back on the road. Now to rebuild those headlight motors....
Like I said me and others on the forum have had good luck with the Spec 2......Tom at Carolina Clutch seemed to understand the C4 application well and knows different set ups for different hp ratings....