C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

no power here i go again

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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by joe paco
hitmanpty, you could have saved yourself and some others a lot of wasted time if you had verified -meaning check and double check- where your rotor was pointing! several times you insisted that it was at #1 plug dist terminal. "woe is me...what can it be?" you folllowed the video, exactly. sure you did.

how did it get from #1 to #2? That do make a difference, yessir! you will notice that your adjusted rotor position is the same as the pic I sent you -which points to #1 firing tab.

you owe gerard for figuring it out. in the future, you can help yourself -and maybe establish some credibility- by doing the simple things, like marking plug wires at the distributor.

If you would have followed directions this would have been the outcome long ago.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by joe paco
hitmanpty, you could have saved yourself and some others a lot of wasted time if you had verified -meaning check and double check- where your rotor was pointing! several times you insisted that it was at #1 plug dist terminal. "woe is me...what can it be?" you folllowed the video, exactly. sure you did.

how did it get from #1 to #2? That do make a difference, yessir! you will notice that your adjusted rotor position is the same as the pic I sent you -which points to #1 firing tab.

you owe gerard for figuring it out. in the future, you can help yourself -and maybe establish some credibility- by doing the simple things, like marking plug wires at the distributor.
Just want to say something on my defense. if you look at my first rotor picture. the rotor was pointing to my number one pole on the dist cap. all this time every body told me that i most align rotor to number one cylinder. or 5 oclock position.

At the end i find out this was wrong. i have to align the rotor to the center of the engine. between 1 and 8 cap post 6 oclock position.

so in part i was under the belief that the rotor was ok at 5 oclock position.

that is why I thought that everything was ok.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
Just want to say something on my defense. if you look at my first rotor picture. the rotor was pointing to my number one pole on the dist cap. all this time every body told me that i most align rotor to number one cylinder. or 5 oclock position.

At the end i find out this was wrong. i have to align the rotor to the center of the engine. between 1 and 8 cap post 6 oclock position.

so in part i was under the belief that the rotor was ok at 5 oclock position.

that is why I thought that everything was ok.
Just to clarify...It does not matter where the rotor ends up at all. As long as it is pointing at or very near the #1 plug and then followed by the others in this order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Then timing it will get you where you need to be... With a timing light that works. It can be done without one and get you close but I would not recommend this. Yes the FSM wants you to have it pointed at a specific location but..IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE THERE. Just FYI for the future.

Last edited by ch@0s; Sep 12, 2012 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #64  
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hello again.

after seting the TPS to spec the car is not working ok

I try to set timing using my timming light. and the mark on the balancer is way off.

when i try to rotate the dist cap clock wise to get the mark closer to 6* BTDC the rpm get so low that the car turn off

in order for the car not to die on me, the mark on balancer is way off . in fact out of scale

like a inch away from the last number on the scale btdc

i set tps to the correct numbers 0.45 close to 4.3 full open. did not get to 4.5 but i guest 4.3 is close enogh

here is a picture of the reding of TPS
[IMG][/IMG]

here is a pic of the distributor the way it is now after reseting the tps. nothing like before
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #65  
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one more thing. may be is nothing but is good to mention.

I dont feel number 7 injector clicking. if i touch every other injectors. clearly can feel the clicking. but not in number 7 injector.

I disconect injector 7 with the engine running. and i feel the change on the engine.

so one thing is telling me injector is not working, the oder tell me is ok.

I was planing on doing some more test on that injector. but iam going to the beach tomorrow and coming back on saturday. so may be on sunday. any way i will take my laptop to check the forum like always

Last edited by hitmanpty; Sep 12, 2012 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 06:14 PM
  #66  
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yyytttt
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:23 AM
  #67  
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Hi
Best and quickest way to check all your injectors work. (my new injectors are very quiet) so that clicking noise may not be a good indicator but you felt a change so it must be working.

From cold start the car and run for 20 or 30 seconds then shut her of, feel each exhaust header pipe about an inch from the head and check they are all the same temperature? and hot to touch.

I had a injector electrical connector that had a cracked metal strip, when it was unplugged and turned over i could see the 12 volt pulses with my multimeter but obviously it couldn't pass enough current to the injector. Now that was a hard one to trace. If you have a cold exhaust on no 7 then you will need to check the connector or replace it. Note if an injector is not working the engine will shudder under acceleration and feel like it is missing and have a lot of engine shake. Note loss of compression from valves not closing all the way can have the same symptoms.

You did disconnect the timing bypass connector?
It is a single wire plug near the fuel pump relay and windshield wiper.
You need to disconnect it and then set the timing, then re connect it for the ecm/spark retard to work.

The tps 0.54 to 4.3 should be fine and should rise gradually.

Have you confirmed you are getting good fuel pressure (at least 30psi)

Also check all your connections are good especially the mass airflow sensor and make sure there is no corrosion which will act as an insulator.


Last edited by gerardvg; Sep 14, 2012 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #68  
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 08:21 PM
  #69  
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ibm not near my car now because iam away on a small vacation but weeks ago i contacto Mecanic to help me start the car now. i think the mecanic move the idle screw on the left site of Tb .i think i remember see that screw all the way out . but i will Have to get home to check that screw
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
I try to set timing using my timming light. and the mark on the balancer is way off.

when i try to rotate the dist cap clock wise to get the mark closer to 6* BTDC the rpm get so low that the car turn off

in order for the car not to die on me, the mark on balancer is way off . in fact out of scale

like a inch away from the last number on the scale btdc
Hmmm. I'm pretty sure that someone already gave you advice on how to check this...earlier in the very same thread. HINT: Post #33 Check it out!
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 01:56 AM
  #71  
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done Sorry i know What.it is now taking ok tps ok tps the problem is the idle screw. on the Tb .
will check that on sunday . preaty sur that finaly fin all my problems
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