C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Remove the Radiator Shroud

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Default Remove the Radiator Shroud

Has anyone removed their Radiator Shroud to allow more air through the Radiator? Also would like to use SLP Cold air induction on my 1990 has anyone had good results by converting to a SLP Cold air induction?

Thank you
Jeff
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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This thread has potential.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Please be more specific. What part of the shroud would you be removing? How would it increase air flow to the radiator?
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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yup what they said
What SLP cold air induction are you referring to?
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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Want to see where this goes.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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With 160 stat, I hear non-shrouded cars really run hard -- especially with a Hypertech chip and cold air box!

I rerouted an A/C duct to mine.

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
With 160 stat, I hear non-shrouded cars really run hard -- especially with a Hypertech chip and cold air box!

I rerouted an A/C duct to mine.

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:44 PM
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Remove the entire shroud and leave the radiator exposed, then add the SLP cold air induction to feed the throttle body.
If the radiator is in-cased in the shroud there is limited flow through the radiator.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jghmczo6
Remove the entire shroud and leave the radiator exposed, then add the SLP cold air induction to feed the throttle body.
If the radiator is in-cased in the shroud there is limited flow through the radiator.
Radiator shrouds are designed to maximize air flow. In other words they help air flow in conjunction with the fans. It would be counter productive to remove it.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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it creates a tunnel effect.

Last edited by kimmer; Sep 9, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 11:39 AM
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removing the AC condenser might help but that's another thing
the shrould should be in place to do its work
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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I asked a simple question to which I received honest answers, although others chose to be sarcastic in their return reply. Too bad this forum experiences this type of activity.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Don't worry Jeff, they are just joking.
BTW removing the air conditioning condenser and leave the shroud in place
would be the closest to what you are looking for. The ac condenser kinda blocks
the air but works as a safety device too if something hard gets in place.
I will remove mine soon.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jghmczo6
I asked a simple question to which I received honest answers, although others chose to be sarcastic in their return reply. Too bad this forum experiences this type of activity.
Don't be so sensitive. Humor is a good thing. The shroud funnels air to the radiator and the intake. If you remove the shroud, air will allow to pass around the radiator and you will lose any "ram air" effect of positive air pressure that the shroud provides.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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Before you go out and waste your money unless you plan on really modifying your engine like big cams, head work, bigger displacement.
The SLP cold air intake and cut air lids, K&N's, etc...won't get you crap in the HP department on a otherwise mostly stock engine.

I went faster at the drag strip on the stock air lid and stock paper filter than I did with the K&N and cut air lid. Anyone want them?
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Calderone
Don't worry Jeff, they are just joking.
BTW removing the air conditioning condenser and leave the shroud in place
would be the closest to what you are looking for. The ac condenser kinda blocks
the air but works as a safety device too if something hard gets in place.
I will remove mine soon.
I just removed the A/C from my 87. It was done more for weight reduction that anything else. The car is uses primarily for autocross and track days so the A/C didn't have any value although it did work fine and had been converted to R134a.

With the condenser out, I did notice an improvement in cooling especially at slow speeds and at idle. I can now let the car idle in my garage and coolant temps will not exceed 185. I have a 180 stat in place. As far as I can tel,l the radiator is OEM and more importantly, there is no dirt or debris between the fins and tubes that would be clogging up airflow. The last track day I attended had air temps in the mid-80's and I never saw coolant temps above 200.

If you are after lower cooler temps, then the first thing to to is to clean out the garbage that has collected in the condenser, between the condenser and radiator and the radiator itself. Then do a complete cooling system flush and refill with a 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol anti-freeze and distilled water. Maybe replace the pressure cap to insure a good seal.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jghmczo6
I asked a simple question to which I received honest answers, although others chose to be sarcastic in their return reply. Too bad this forum experiences this type of activity.
Easy Bud!!

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