LT1 engine block pull
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
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LT1 engine block pull
Need advice on how to best pull the engine from a '96 C4 LT1. I have the block stripped down to the short block, exhaust removed, oil pan removed (had to do that to verify the crankshaft/connecting rod damage). Remaining problem is how to get to the transmission/engine block bolts. It looks like you actually have to lower the engine/trans to get to the bolts. Is this correct? And do you have to remove the driveshaft beam to get the trans to drop enough? All advice appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
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From: Texas
The "best" way was to leave it all assembled and pull the engine as an assembly.
The next thing you need is the Factory Service Manual.
You've "cut twice and measured once".
You remove the c-beam. The engine/transmission will tilt aft allowing easy access to the engine/transmission bolts. You will also need to remove the center console trim in order to avoid ripping it through the floor.
The next thing you need is the Factory Service Manual.
You've "cut twice and measured once".
You remove the c-beam. The engine/transmission will tilt aft allowing easy access to the engine/transmission bolts. You will also need to remove the center console trim in order to avoid ripping it through the floor.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Oct 1, 2012 at 08:06 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
pulled my 96; pulled it from side; had very little room to manuever engine hoist:
pulled radiator;
pulled off harmonic balancer;
pulled crankshaft hub (could probably skip this step)
stripped engine down to short block;
removed nut from each side of the bottom of the respective motor mount;
jacked engine up slightly and placed jack stand under transmission;
lowered engine back down;
removed the four bolts holding transmission to bellhousing;
removed and hung clutch slave cylinder to side;
unplugged various wiring harnesses and tied them out of the way;
pulled short block, bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch as a unit.
all in all, it went much easier than I had anticipated.
pulled radiator;
pulled off harmonic balancer;
pulled crankshaft hub (could probably skip this step)
stripped engine down to short block;
removed nut from each side of the bottom of the respective motor mount;
jacked engine up slightly and placed jack stand under transmission;
lowered engine back down;
removed the four bolts holding transmission to bellhousing;
removed and hung clutch slave cylinder to side;
unplugged various wiring harnesses and tied them out of the way;
pulled short block, bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch as a unit.
all in all, it went much easier than I had anticipated.
Team Owner
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Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
pulled my 96; pulled it from side; had very little room to manuever engine hoist:
pulled radiator;
pulled off harmonic balancer;
pulled crankshaft hub (could probably skip this step)
stripped engine down to short block;
removed nut from each side of the bottom of the respective motor mount;
jacked engine up slightly and placed jack stand under transmission;
lowered engine back down;
removed the four bolts holding transmission to bellhousing;
removed and hung clutch slave cylinder to side;
unplugged various wiring harnesses and tied them out of the way;
pulled short block, bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch as a unit.
all in all, it went much easier than I had anticipated.
pulled radiator;
pulled off harmonic balancer;
pulled crankshaft hub (could probably skip this step)
stripped engine down to short block;
removed nut from each side of the bottom of the respective motor mount;
jacked engine up slightly and placed jack stand under transmission;
lowered engine back down;
removed the four bolts holding transmission to bellhousing;
removed and hung clutch slave cylinder to side;
unplugged various wiring harnesses and tied them out of the way;
pulled short block, bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch as a unit.
all in all, it went much easier than I had anticipated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
as I recall, some patience, a six sided socket / universal joint and a long extension or two, were all I needed to loosen the transmission to bellhousing bolts; didn't loosen C beam or remove motor mounts, although doing so would make the bolts more accessible.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,094
Likes: 282
From: Phila., PA burbs
I didn't touch touch the C-beam, but I did remove the motor mounts. I supported the engine/trans with a jack, removed the engine mounts and then lower the whole unit to gain better access to the bell housing bolts. Even with the additional clearance they were still a bitch. 
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
If you removed the four large bolts that hold the transmission onto the bellhousing, you're good to go; once the bellhousing is clear of the transmission , on the drivers side you will see a large recessed allen head bolt; this is the clutch fork pivot stud; unscrew it by turning it CLOCKWISE as you look at it; i.e. into the bellhousing; when it comes free the bellhousing can be seperated from the clutch.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,094
Likes: 282
From: Phila., PA burbs
I might be confused, but if you pulled the bolts that go from the bell housing into the rear of the block DO NOT attempt to seperate the bellhousing from the block; a pull type clutch will NOT disengage the throw out bearing / clutch fork from the pressure plate.
If you removed the four large bolts that hold the transmission onto the bellhousing, you're good to go; once the bellhousing is clear of the transmission , on the drivers side you will see a large recessed allen head bolt; this is the clutch fork pivot stud; unscrew it by turning it CLOCKWISE as you look at it; i.e. into the bellhousing; when it comes free the bellhousing can be seperated from the clutch.
If you removed the four large bolts that hold the transmission onto the bellhousing, you're good to go; once the bellhousing is clear of the transmission , on the drivers side you will see a large recessed allen head bolt; this is the clutch fork pivot stud; unscrew it by turning it CLOCKWISE as you look at it; i.e. into the bellhousing; when it comes free the bellhousing can be seperated from the clutch.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Removing the engine mounts uses the c-beam as a de-facto lever against the rear of the transmission and the differential. It's an awesome way to elongate the holes in the c-beam.
The correct method is to remove the c-beam bolts and the c-beam, thus allowing the engine to tilt back and provide very easy access to the bell housing or transmission bolts.
The correct method is to remove the c-beam bolts and the c-beam, thus allowing the engine to tilt back and provide very easy access to the bell housing or transmission bolts.
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 670
Likes: 55
You will absolutely not be able to pull a fully dressed motor out of a 6 speed with the tranny in the car, just to let you know, the above pix were the motor being pulled with the tranny out of the car. As for my 6 speed (you don't say which your car is, auto or 6 spd) I had to remove both headers to drop the motor back in, also had to remove the balancer and accessory brackets because I left the tranny in. Good luck and hope we helped you out.
OOps missed it, you have an auto so that's different, just adding the above note for anyone with a 6 spd trying to leave it in and pull the motor, it just won't work.
OOps missed it, you have an auto so that's different, just adding the above note for anyone with a 6 spd trying to leave it in and pull the motor, it just won't work.
Last edited by tombrammer; Oct 5, 2012 at 09:37 PM. Reason: missed something
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 670
Likes: 55
The motor will come out with the tranny in place, but you have to pull off the balancer and hub, the accessory brackets, headers first. The shaft from the tranny is very long and the motor has to come a long way forward before you can start to go up with it. I was able to leave the radiator in but had to loosen all the bolts to the shroud and shift it all forward. The motor will come out with the motor mounts but mine would not go back in with them attached. I found it helpful to grind a small half circle in the motor mount above each bolt going in to the block to make it easier to get to them started when the motor is back in and you are trying to get the motor mounts reattached. Also be careful lifting and lowering the motor when you are trying to get at the top bell housing bolts and try not to pinch any of the wires running over the top of the tranny.