Going with my 3rd clutch install, 3 different brands, Going now with carolina clutch stage one and their flywheel. IS there a special way the clutch fork goes into the spring. When I did it prior it seemed to fit corrrect into the spring and so does this time, but it doesnt mean I am not putting it in 3 times wrong. I keep getting severe, not annoying chatter, I get un driveable chatter, ok on the road, starting off in first or reverse is embarrassing. Wish I could explain it better, Wish someone could help me with my limited description. I mean I even torqued everything down via 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench. I am putting in another new pilot bearing this time but it had new ones each time. I have a fluted pilot bearing now. Can maybe someone do a ZF install for dummies write up- just the clutch pressure plate, pilot , throw out bearing, pivot ball ect. I did also install new clutch slave and master cylinder too after last install. MY gut says I have something wrong in the throw out bearing/shift fork/shift fork bearing install. I have the factory manual and have followed it step by step as I could.

 

step two (step one would be install flywheel) is to check the flywheel for run out; as even a miniscule burr on the flywheel to crank mating surface can cause considerable "wobble" at the flywheel's outer rim. An excessively worn thrust bearing on the crank can contribute to this problem also.

the easy way to check is with a dial indicator if one is available; if not there is a low tech but accurate way to accomplish the same thing.

use bolts, c clamps or vise grip pliers to fasten something substantial to the back of the block positioned a few thousandths of a inch above the clutch surface of the flywheel. measure this distance with a feeler gage. slowly rotate the flywheel / crank, while continuing to take measurements; any substantial variation indicates excessive flywheel run out.

if everything checks out, you may have a problem with the clutch disc or pressure plate...which seems unlikely with a series of new parts.

If you have a late "blue tag" ZF, make sure a throw out bearing for an earlier "black tag" ZF wasn't mistakenly installed (the inner diameter of the black tag is larger and can't properly center itself on the pressure plate).

before you install the transmission, leave the clutch installation tool in the clutch disc and measure the actual throw on the throwout bearing, it should be in the range of 0.290 to 0.315 inches (although a SPEC clutch and flywheel in my car functioned perfectly with slightly less throw) Any gross deviation would indicate an issue with the hydraulics.

Lastly, did you change out the clutch fork and/ or its pivot ball ? There have been some mix ups with LT5 parts reported, but the problems reported were very severe interference between the clutch fork and the pressure plate.

I don't know why, but clutch problems are one of the most often reported and vexing issues with these cars. hang in there.

 

Well, the transmission going in is a blueprinted NOS and upgraded by ZFDOC, I will verify with him the correct throw out bearing. Thanks.

 

A couple of things come to mind; please note that I am not an expert.

My question would be, What kind of sound does it make? and When does it make the sound?

I had an experience with a worn out clutch fork ball stud. It had grooved to where it allowed the fork to rub against the pressure plate if I pushed the pedal far enough. I tend to push the pedal deeper going into first, and of course reverse. The sound was knocking type noise and only occured when the pedal was pushed far enough.

Another question would be, was the smf weight balanced to the original dmf? These engines are externally balanced at the rear by the flywheel. If the balance is off, I imagine it would cause things to jump around enough to create excessive chatter, especially on start off and reverse. Also, does the new clutch plate have the spring vibration dampers? The dmf had them between the plates, and the clutch plate had no springs. So when going to an smf, the clutch plate needs to have the springs.

I have also read/heard that smf's require a higher rpm at start off. Something to do with momentum. The dual mass had more weight and carried the flywheel around enough to keep things smooth. But a lighter flywheel lacks this momentum, so it must be at a higher rpm, or it will get lugged down at start off.

As I said, I'm not a pro, and these may all be trans 101 stuff that you have long ago ruled out. However, I'm curious as well, because I know my dmf is getting ready to go.

 

I have had bad experience with the CC with the heavy SPEC SM Flywheel. Initially the chatter was so bad I could hardly drive it. CC replaced PP TOB and clutch plate. I resurfaced the flywheel. I can drive it now but it is not fun. Chatter is unpredictable and feels like starting out in 3rd gear. I had the new flywheel balanced (to the old DM unit). The chatter is unacceptable and I intend to swap out to something else this winter. I am interested in "smooth driveablity". Street use only. Any experience with RAM force 9.5 Dual Disc? They converts the pull to a push setup with an internal hydraulic slave unit.

 

I have had great luck with the CC spec stage II set up and I run a Fidanza alum. FW. I once ran the RAM puck style disc.......

chatter in reverse gear was so bad it shook the whole car violently to the point I thought I had a pinion angle problem......I have had good luck with the SPEC stage II; the alum. fw has it's challenges but also has its advantages.....

 

another thing with going to a new FW; make sure it is balanced with the old FW if not already out of the box....also make sure the FW is for the Y-body; not the F-body! ask me how I know about that.....

 

Gosh, so many different problems, still dont know where to start. Cant keep throwing money at the problem.