Rear Hub Replacement ??? "84"
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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From: co
Rear Hub Replacement ??? "84"
hi guys; i am changing the rear hubs. am up to the step to take out the 3 tork head bolts holding the bearing assembly to housing.
question is, are these red loctited in? so due i need to heat? they are tight
also doe's #50 tork head socket sound like the right size. mine seems a bit loose and don't have a bigger one to compare with.
question is, are these red loctited in? so due i need to heat? they are tight
also doe's #50 tork head socket sound like the right size. mine seems a bit loose and don't have a bigger one to compare with.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 201
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From: co
O K if any one else tries this
the bolt takes a #55 tork or star head socket.
if you have a 3/8 drive as i started with, don't wast you time.
get a 1/2 drive socket with a long handle ratchet or breaker bar. piece of cake then.
the bolt doesn't look to be loctited. just tight.
if any one know the torque specification for these bolts please post for me. thinking over 100 ft lbs any way
the bolt takes a #55 tork or star head socket.
if you have a 3/8 drive as i started with, don't wast you time.
get a 1/2 drive socket with a long handle ratchet or breaker bar. piece of cake then.
the bolt doesn't look to be loctited. just tight.
if any one know the torque specification for these bolts please post for me. thinking over 100 ft lbs any way
Le Mans Master
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From: Australia
Le Mans Master
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
They are grade 8 bolts, and Rodj is correct about the heads.
Seemed like I bought a special offset 17mm wrench for something in there. It was about 10 years ago, but I still have the wrench, it is something I use on rare occasion.
Just for grins, if you didn't change your U joints before, now is a really good time to do it.
Seemed like I bought a special offset 17mm wrench for something in there. It was about 10 years ago, but I still have the wrench, it is something I use on rare occasion.
Just for grins, if you didn't change your U joints before, now is a really good time to do it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,269
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From: Ottawa Ontario
O K if any one else tries this
the bolt takes a #55 tork or star head socket.
if you have a 3/8 drive as i started with, don't wast you time.
get a 1/2 drive socket with a long handle ratchet or breaker bar. piece of cake then.
the bolt doesn't look to be loctited. just tight.
if any one know the torque specification for these bolts please post for me. thinking over 100 ft lbs any way
the bolt takes a #55 tork or star head socket.
if you have a 3/8 drive as i started with, don't wast you time.
get a 1/2 drive socket with a long handle ratchet or breaker bar. piece of cake then.
the bolt doesn't look to be loctited. just tight.
if any one know the torque specification for these bolts please post for me. thinking over 100 ft lbs any way
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Use the correct torx bit and 1/2 inch socket set with a large breaker bar, just go for it put plenty of pressure so the torx bit doesn't slip.
I ended up having to use a piece of pipe over the breaker bar, for extra leverage when i did mine. I recommend you keep heat well away from the bearings and aluminum you wont need it, good quality torx heads and bolts can handle the torque.
I ended up having to use a piece of pipe over the breaker bar, for extra leverage when i did mine. I recommend you keep heat well away from the bearings and aluminum you wont need it, good quality torx heads and bolts can handle the torque.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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From: co
Safety Car
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Do yourself a BIG favor and just take the half-shafts out....it makes accessing the hubs 1000% easier, AND you can clean and regrease the u-joint if you do not feel that its time to replace. IMO anytime you have a u-joint on the table its time to replace them...$25 ea is too cheap to avoid going back under the car again this year. or next or the year after that...
You can also replace the torx bolts with allen heads or hex, whatever your preference. I like the allens. As long as they are grade-8 or better, you;re good to go. See if there is a Fastenal store in the area. Thats the worlds best nut & bolt store.
See your FSM for the torque spec.
You can also replace the torx bolts with allen heads or hex, whatever your preference. I like the allens. As long as they are grade-8 or better, you;re good to go. See if there is a Fastenal store in the area. Thats the worlds best nut & bolt store.
See your FSM for the torque spec.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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From: co
thanks good advise.
all ready done and just trying to get drivable for now.........your right though about doing both hubs and half shaft u-joints at the same time.
have to do a full bushing kit next spring and plan on u-joints,break pads, and shocks at that time
wouldn't have done hubs now, but the drivers side had 3/8" i play form side to side at the ends of the tire. the pass side was a different brand and looked to have been changed not to long ago. have new in both sides now, SKF manufactured in usa. they look much better quality than the ones that were in there
all ready done and just trying to get drivable for now.........your right though about doing both hubs and half shaft u-joints at the same time.
have to do a full bushing kit next spring and plan on u-joints,break pads, and shocks at that time
wouldn't have done hubs now, but the drivers side had 3/8" i play form side to side at the ends of the tire. the pass side was a different brand and looked to have been changed not to long ago. have new in both sides now, SKF manufactured in usa. they look much better quality than the ones that were in there