Head and Intake bolts Question
I have read conflicting info on head bolts so I wanted to double check...
I have an ’89 vette (105k miles) all stock with aluminum heads and in the middle of a first time head gaskets replacements (due to leaking coolant along the head seam on the no. 8 cylinder) and second time intake manifold replacement.
I will be using the Fel-Pro 1010 gaskets for the heads and was planning on using the Fel-Pro ES72856 head bolts (which have sealant pre-applied and have no washers). The included instruction say these bolts are applicable to all make, model and years listed. And even more than, their 79 page “Torque Tables” official guide (page 44) for applicability on GM V-8’s states:
350 (5.7L) Chevrolet 1991-86 Aluminum heads exc. VIN P
Torque Short Bolts 60; Medium Bolts 65;Long Bolts 65 ft/lbs
Note:copy of their guide is on :
http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf
But without the washers, most forums say that this will screw up an accurate torque reading due to the aluminum heads. Looking for advice (can someone actually say Fel-pro bolts guide is wrong?) and if OK to use without washers, any added advice when I torque them down. I already bought the Fel-pros bolts and had them shipped.
Also, I am pretty sure my intake manifold bolts (the T-40 torx bolts) never had washers on them. I did the job myself a year ago and I can’t believe I forgot them – so I’m thinking they were never on my intake. Do I need them for the same reasons on aluminum (so I really need to buy a new set of intake bolts)?
Thanks,
barrypaul
Researching shows most people say do not use the tap to clean out the bolts (may cut into the metal) - but rather using a thread chaser specific for these bolts or making your own thread chaser by grinding one side of the old bolts for clean-out.
I think I'm going for new intake manny bolts with washers...






