I have started looking for a corvette, probably a later C4 model. I ran across a 94 but it has 140k miles on it. I am fairly new to the Corvette world, but have loved the cars since I was small. How long do these engines, transmissions, etc last? I know it depends on how well it was taken care of, but is 140k something that may nickel and dime me to death and make it not worth the price? Also it will not be my DD, so some downtime is fine.

 

Well its 20 yrs old youll be spending money on it.

140k for me would be just too much may still run well but most everything will be due for repair at some point.

 

I totally understand I would be putting $ into it but I will not have an extra thousand(s) here and there to drop in it to keep it running. I expect some money to go into it, that is what comes with buying an older vehicle. I was basically wondering if there was anything that could cost me a ton that I should stay away from.

 

Milage is not the determining factor anymore. Maint IS.

I have seen many cars with 1/4 mil miles that were running just fine, reliable and dependable. As matter of fact, my engine is pushing 200K, chassis is 300k and Its a DD. BUT ! I DO the maint and I fix things. I use quality lubes, change them often and stay on top of any leaks, noises or other warning signs. Everything wears...things break when they are ignored too long.

When to walk?
When someone has no documentation on the maint. When they are showing you a car t hey put 100,000 miles on and cannot produce and records. Sticks are scarey, and cars that have aftermarket junk glued and bolted on everywhere. Aftermarket alarms, stereos, and other electrical trash are warning signs of amature engineering.

Go by the simple rule of thumb...

about 100,000 miles for about $10,000 for 20 yrs or less. With maint records...that should not be a problem.

I see '86s that will sell for $12,000 but its got less than 30K miles and its showroom fresh. I also see 2005's that sell for the same price that have had the dog $hit run out of them and show obvious signs of abuse.
I once walked by a Corvette and looked inside to see the ashtray STUFFED full of butts and ashes all over the console. I was tempted to wait to see what kind of animal would do that to a world class car...Even cleaned up with low miles, that car would not bring more than $3000 because of the neglect. Its shocking at how some low class people abuse their cars by not changing oil but every 25,000 miles or ever changing the coolant...

When shopping, look the SELLER as well as the car but decide based on the maint records, or lack there of. I've walked away several times when the seller was some wanna be hot-rodder that talked like he was Knight-Rider and his street stories were too "fast and frivolous" for my liking...

 

My 92 has 173k miles on it and runs fine. I have had to replace the alternator and the injectors so far. I will need to also replace the thermostat. These are normal for a car with this kind of mileage.

If you can do the work yourself then the cost is not bad. If you have to take it to someone to do the work then it can get expensive. Parts for above were about $375 total. The labor charge for a shop to do the work would be more than that.

 

Id buy a car with good paint and interior. Miles would not matter too much to me if cosmetics are good.

 

Yeah, wish I had followed that advice. Got mine with 170K on it back in 2000.... there's a reason why it worked on and off for two years and spent the last eight having everything replaced.....even today, still.

 

I have seen these small block engine with over 330K on them and still run strong. GM was building some good engines during this time frame, of the L98. I would think that a LT1 would get the same kind of service, but the opti spark is the weak link in those, but even that the block should get into the 300K with proper mantiance

 

A 94 with 140 on the clock has been driven and not stored. This is good.
It also means a few things will need to be serviced or replaced. That can be expensive.
If the price is right <10K and the interior is in good condition. This is good.

Here are some numbers to consider when negotiating a price;
Seats and carpet = 1000 - 1500
Tires = 1000
Shocks = 400
Brakes = 200-400
Paint = 5000
Remote key entry = 300-500
Trans = 2000

These numbers are rough but can give you an idea what $$ your looking at should these items need replacing.

Good Luck

 

Coach,
& everyone facing seats...
I found a decent alternative thats not too bubba and maintains the style of the Vette...
I was sick to death of my sport leather that did little more than burn my hide off living in Phx...and it dried and dry rotted,. leather kits were $1100..per seat. Ain;t happenin.

Sooo
I got a auto interior seamster (?) a guy that sews seats... and we found some marine grade HD vinyl and used that instead. Just as suple,looks like faux leather and has a very high UV rating good for years since it was designed for boat seats in the salt water !

Got the 2 seats recovered for a total of $400 labor and materials. And as a nice surprise...they just happen to be the same color combo of the 2012 ZR1...grey on drk grey, looks good!

Just remember...,Marine Grade Vinyl...its a whole other class of vinyl and offers much higher quality and colors than the standard automotive vinyls that are usually what you have to choose from.

 

Great solution!

Thanks

 

thats the best advice ive seen for a long time regarding buying, well said Lee !!!

 

Bought my 88' Auto 6 years ago with 150,000 miles and it now has over 260,000 miles. I do all the work myself, upgraded to CS140 alt, Dyno Don shorty headers, cat delete, frisbee delete, Magnaflow mufflers, custom tune with chip re-burn, poly bushing all around, Bilstein shocks, distributor rebuild, trans rebuild, all sensors and fuel pump replacements as they fail and steering rack rebuilt coming up soon. I'm currently putting together a 355 with mega ported Edelbrock base and SLP runners, I like the TPI and am sticking to it. I've also replaced the complete interior. I beat the crap out of her and she loves me for it, so I take care of her and give her the best. She responds immediately and bites on take off better than new. But I bought it with the knowledge she'd get driven harder than most. So, a hard driven car will need alot more maintenance, true, but my thought is, why have it and not drive it as it was intended?
Sold my S10 and BMW because I didn't drive them any more after I got the Vette.

 

The lack of documentation is also the side-effect of being in original condition, too.

My 93 had 59,000 when bought last Spring. Still had 20 year old parts and growing lazy.
Had to play catch-up with the lack of prior maintenance just to get it back to shape.

Since then: fuel sending unit, fuel pump/sock, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, tires, shocks, bushings, throttle position sensor, map sensor, plugs and wires, idle air control, coil, and ignition control module.

The only visible changes (from the previous owner) were the slotted discs and pads in the front.

The Corvette is now refreshed, renewed, and responsive.
{Am a big proponent on preventive maintenance.}

However @ 140K - need a indepth inspection, first at a reliable shop.

 

Pretty easy tell how well it was taken care of. Pull the dipstick; is it clean all the way up? If the oil isn't changed it will be chared up near the top. Stick your finger in the oil cap and see if you can dig out gunk. Take the radiator cap off and see if it's clean without rust. Passed those tests you can figure the engine is in decent shape.
If I was looking for a vette I'd look for who passed the under hood tests with decent interior AND weatherstrip.
If you don't intend working on it yourself pass it up and look for a C5 or C6. Like everyone said something almost 20 years old will have some issues. Labor is what will eat you up.
My 87 with 240k miles has never spent the night inside in 20 years. I think the body will rot off before the drivetrain wears out.

JS

 

Bought my '92 in '94 with 25k on it, pristine shape. Skip tires, really brakes too, easily measured for how much life is left in them. It's the sneak stuff that got me, though I love it just the same.

I'm giving you 'garage' prices, sometimes I did it myself, sometimes not.

FSM - full shop manual, do not even think about buying a C4 without it!

Optispark - read all you want here, bad design, $800 or so at a garage
Heater core - also about $800 at a garage
Wheel bearings - only 1 failed so far but then I replaced all, maybe $6-800
Car stereo - mines been rebuilt twice, $200-500 depending on extent
Interior - I got iggoo (sp) seat covers, they certainly look better than tattered leather, about $250?
Plugs and wire set - $300 because of garage labor, parts not bad but this is the one thing I did that most improved my cars performance/idle
Headlight motors - I'm on my 2nd/3rd set, easy to do, $200 each
Various little interior switches, door closed, power locks, etc, cheap parts really and easy to install
Weatherstripping - ugh, mine is shot, needs $500 worth in parts
Injectors - I probably needed new ones awhile ago, $200 or so, easy to install
02 sensors - $40 each, I keep thinking I should replace mine just cause they're so inexpensive but, I haven't
Shocks - you can go cheap with Monroe for $100 or better for more

Some of these items you KNOW when you need, others, not so much. Thats the fun of it. Right??