Wheel stud
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From: Wishing this year would end :( Philly PA
St. Jude Donor '06
Wheel stud
I have to replace one of the Wheel studs on my 91. I broke it off replacing a flat the other night :cry Anyone know what size they are? I don't have my shop books with me and wanted to run out @ lunch. Thanks! :seeya
>mike
>mike
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Wishing this year would end :( Philly PA
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: Wheel stud (Rich B.)
M12 x 1.5 x 44
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: And on the fifth day, subpoenas were served to Obama senior staff
Re: Wheel stud (mikeg826)
Becomming an expert.
You didn't say front or rears?
Front is easy, just remove caliper bracket and caliper. Use big c-clamp and push stud out. Start new stud and using a couple of big thick washers and strong nut of correct size, pull stud in until seated.
Re-install caliper brackets using new GM bolts and torque to specs (137 ft/lbs on 89 J55 fronts).
Rear seems more problematic and manual calls for removal of hub, haven't tried to see if their is a way w/o removing the hub.
You didn't say front or rears?
Front is easy, just remove caliper bracket and caliper. Use big c-clamp and push stud out. Start new stud and using a couple of big thick washers and strong nut of correct size, pull stud in until seated.
Re-install caliper brackets using new GM bolts and torque to specs (137 ft/lbs on 89 J55 fronts).
Rear seems more problematic and manual calls for removal of hub, haven't tried to see if their is a way w/o removing the hub.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
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From: The Motor City
Re: Wheel stud (Rich B.)
I replaced one of my pasenger-side front wheel studs just about 2 months ago on my '89.
I contemplated taking the caliper and bracket off, but I was concerned about retorquing the bolts (133ft-lbs is difficult when the car isn't on a hoist).
So here's what I did: I soaked the broken stud with some 3-in-1 oil for about 4 days (applied directly to the stud head behind the bearing). I continued to reapply the oil each day - once in the morning before leaving for work, and once at night after work. Bought a new 'sacrificial' wheel nut from an autoparts store. Threaded the nut part-way onto the broken stud (to provide more surface area), then hit it with an 8lb. sledgehammer. 3 solid hits, and it was off! And no damage to the bearing either. Cleaned up the excess 3-in-1 oil with some brake clean and was good to go.
Quick, painless, and no dealing with calipers and high torque values.
Hope that helps. Good luck with the car.
[Modified by TheCorvetteKid, 6:31 PM 6/8/2002]
I contemplated taking the caliper and bracket off, but I was concerned about retorquing the bolts (133ft-lbs is difficult when the car isn't on a hoist).
So here's what I did: I soaked the broken stud with some 3-in-1 oil for about 4 days (applied directly to the stud head behind the bearing). I continued to reapply the oil each day - once in the morning before leaving for work, and once at night after work. Bought a new 'sacrificial' wheel nut from an autoparts store. Threaded the nut part-way onto the broken stud (to provide more surface area), then hit it with an 8lb. sledgehammer. 3 solid hits, and it was off! And no damage to the bearing either. Cleaned up the excess 3-in-1 oil with some brake clean and was good to go.
Quick, painless, and no dealing with calipers and high torque values.
Hope that helps. Good luck with the car.
[Modified by TheCorvetteKid, 6:31 PM 6/8/2002]
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Re: Wheel stud (mikeg826)
Never replaced the rear, but just had to replace four (4) on the driver's front wheel (over-zealous technician with an improperly set air-ratchet). Its easy - you don't need to take anything apart or grease anything. Get a 1lb "baby sledge" and simply bang it out. Be sure to rotate the rotor so there is a space behind the stud - don't be afraid to hit it. I watched my buddy (who works at Meineke) take some off - its amazing how much abuse these things can take! The rotor will be "free" just hold it with one hand while you "kiss" the stud.
I borrowed a tool they had to put studs on - it was basically a "home-made" cone-shaped thing that allowed a greater pressure area on the rotor to draw the stud through. My buddy told me it was important to get the groves on the new stud in the same position as the one(s) I took out. The tool drew them in about 80-85%. Put the wheel on and torqued them down to 100lbs - and could feel them draw tight against the back of the spindle (took the wheels off to be sure but they were fine). Worked for me!
ps - never use any kind of lubricant (like Liquid Wrench or WD40) on the studs or stud nuts when putting the wheel back on! :nono:
I borrowed a tool they had to put studs on - it was basically a "home-made" cone-shaped thing that allowed a greater pressure area on the rotor to draw the stud through. My buddy told me it was important to get the groves on the new stud in the same position as the one(s) I took out. The tool drew them in about 80-85%. Put the wheel on and torqued them down to 100lbs - and could feel them draw tight against the back of the spindle (took the wheels off to be sure but they were fine). Worked for me!
ps - never use any kind of lubricant (like Liquid Wrench or WD40) on the studs or stud nuts when putting the wheel back on! :nono:
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From: Connectivette
Re: Wheel stud (linkschamp)
I'm in the process of replacing my rear hub and having a hell of a time at it. About two months ago I had to replace a lug stud on the rear also. I tried 6" and 9" C clamps and all they did was twist. So after some recommendations from fellow CF members I started to whack it(the stud that is) Now I'm replacing my hub/bearing on the same wheel. Check out my thread My bearing busted in two.
I'm not totally convinced that my hitting the stud(took three good whacks to get it out)caused my bearing to break, could just be the 117K miles on the clock, but I'm gonna think twice about wacking it again.
I'm not totally convinced that my hitting the stud(took three good whacks to get it out)caused my bearing to break, could just be the 117K miles on the clock, but I'm gonna think twice about wacking it again.