C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Trans problem-Fix it or sell it?

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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Default Trans problem-Fix it or sell it?

Well, changed governor gear, probably lost the fluid that was in the pan when I tilted it to get under it from the RH side. Put it back level, started the engine to top off the trans, heard some crackling noises and engine started to labor, shut engine off. Went and got some fluid to add, checked dipstick and pan was wayyy over filled (like maybe the torque converter emptied it's fluid into the pan but didn't get it back, so I added a quart anyway. Started engine again, but now car won't move in any gear. The engine RPM drops about 100RPM like it's almost going to, but it doesn't. And, there's a new clicking sound coming from the bottom of the powertrain area, probably the trans, that increases with engine speed. So I'm guessing it blew a pump, or lost prime, or something else fun. It obviously isn't pulling fluid from the pan. Anyone have any similar experience? Does it sound like something I can fix without pulling the trans? Oh, btw, it's a '91 w/700R4.

Last edited by cimchazz1; Nov 5, 2012 at 07:19 PM. Reason: added vehicle info
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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When you shut off the motor, an auto trans fluid level will rise a lot. Doesn't sound good with your situation. Probably need to pull the thing if the fluid level is ok in park with the motor running.
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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These things can do weird things when cold....When I start mine from all night cool down...the engine fires and the trans in park, the car feels like its trying to move. Its always done that when it was stone cold. Once warmed, its not noticable. But when cold it will give a feeling of trying to pull even though its in park...strange. Like it rolls as far as it can until the parking pawl stops it.

regarding yours...sounds like you need to pull the pan and see whats in the bottom. Filter the fluid thru a screen or paint filter, then a white cloth to find ANY fresh metal. There will always be some ground up dust like mud in the corners on a trans pan...thats normal wear stuff that gets deposited in the pan when it sits. You're looking for fresh, new shavings that say "broken" or not. No shavings or filings, then your problem might be hydraulic. Check the filter and look for something sticking thats causing the oil pressure to relieve itself and dump back to tank (pan/resevoir) instead of staying under tension in the system. If you have a FSM to look at , there is great detailed drawings of the hyd circuit and valve body. My eyes are too tired to see that anymore, buy you may benefit from the drawings.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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Oh, make sure the filter hasn't fallen off of the valvebody.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Thanks, I'll try both, but I'm sure that filter is on pretty tight. I'll check my FSM, too. I'm hoping there's a pump above the filter that I can replace. Maybe I'll do later today. Whatever pulls fluid from the pan ran dry for a few seconds and must have failed, I heard some uneven clicking sounds, like teeth popping, or valves clacking, then the engine idle dropped, like it was something that was being rotated by the engine (but no loud snaps). At first I thought I had sucked some acorns or a chipmunk into the intake (damn things are everywhere)!! Next time I'll get a manual trans!
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 01:05 AM
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In a stock 700r4 the filter sits on the bottom of the pan. It can't "fall off". The filter is inserted directly into the pump.

If you want to check for metal debris in your trans, you should open up the trans filter. It's pretty easy to pry open around the edges until it comes apart. If you're unlucky, it might look like this inside (my "new" torque converter self-destructed after 150 miles -- this is the second filter 1300 miles later. You should have seen the first one. Unfortunately I somehow failed to document it.):


Last edited by Cliff Harris; Nov 7, 2012 at 01:08 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
In a stock 700r4 the filter sits on the bottom of the pan. It can't "fall off". The filter is inserted directly into the pump.

If you want to check for metal debris in your trans, you should open up the trans filter. It's pretty easy to pry open around the edges until it comes apart. If you're unlucky, it might look like this inside (my "new" torque converter self-destructed after 150 miles -- this is the second filter 1300 miles later. You should have seen the first one. Unfortunately I somehow failed to document it.):

Thanks Cliff. Well, I finally got around to lifting the rear end up off the ground and spun the rear wheels as fast as I could "by hand" with trans in in Drive to see what would happen, and the wheels and the wheels kept going. I noticed that if I turned the engine off and started it again, the rear wheels spin forward in R, N, and all Drive positions of the shifter. When I speed up the engine, the wheels slow down and stop. Back on the ground, doesn't move in any gear but I can hear the engine laboring slightly in gear. Does this sound like anything you have seen before?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cimchazz1
Thanks Cliff. Well, I finally got around to lifting the rear end up off the ground and spun the rear wheels as fast as I could "by hand" with trans in in Drive to see what would happen, and the wheels and the wheels kept going. I noticed that if I turned the engine off and started it again, the rear wheels spin forward in R, N, and all Drive positions of the shifter. When I speed up the engine, the wheels slow down and stop. Back on the ground, doesn't move in any gear but I can hear the engine laboring slightly in gear. Does this sound like anything you have seen before?
Well, looks like I'm getting it repaired. Had it listed for sale and had a number of calls on it, went out of town for awhile and when I got home it was gone. Guess my wife got tired of looking at it sitting in the driveway and called RC Trans and Gear in Troy, MI, to come and get it without asking me.
I had called them 3 times over the course of a year (while trying to decide what to do with it) and talked to the owner, Randy Carron, and told her they sounded like they offered the best guarantee, but it still sounded expensive to me (I normally do my own work, except for transmissions).
Don't have any experience with or info on this shop, but they are telling me they are going to do a total rebuild w/a long list of updates (verbal) and will guarantee it for as long as I own the car (which could be a looooong time now, but hopefully not longer than they are in business) for 1500 bucks (electronic model is more). Since I haven't had anyone work on one of my cars in many years, and wasn't able to get any good solid referrals for trans work around here, it's kind of a shot in the dark. All I know, so far, is that he has been doing this for over 35 years in this location and works with his son in the business, and he owned/owns a famous Hot Rod magazine Challenger, so at least he's a car guy. I stopped by and took a look at it after they pulled it and was happy to see it was the original trans with the big "V" on the sides .

I'll keep ya'all posted on the final outcome. Hoping to report back that it was a great experience. Would like to be able to find a reasonably priced honest trans guy in the area to send people to.

Last edited by cimchazz1; Sep 18, 2013 at 11:19 PM. Reason: changed spelling and wording slightly
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