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Hey guys, I know this is a fairly common question so I thought I would share my research/quest for wheel bearings. I found these to be as good of a "street use" bearing you can get and they are made right here in the USA. WBI (Wheel Bearings Inc.) Make the hubs in *******, MI. and use USA only NTN bearings. They claim a 1% defect rate.
The cheapest source is mibearings.com out of MI. You can get the #513020HD which are a tappered bearing for $133 or the standards for $101. All other companies I looked into (none race) are made overseas.
Even the MOOG Hubs are owned by National and use Federl Mogal bearings from overseas, which are claimed to be not as good as the Timkens but more exspensive. The SKF's are souposed to be a realy good bearing but they are still imported. Just My 2 cents from some reaserch I thought I would share. At least you know what you are getting and your money supports USA jobs
just got a pair of SKF's from NAPA. they have a three year warranty and claim to be US made on the box??????? any way.
maybe assembled in US?
these were for back. wanted same for front but they only had the made in china ones with a one year warranty for front.
The hubs may have been made in America but who knows were the bearing come from anymore. The bearing companies don't make the actual hub assymbles usualy. WBI said they make alot of the hubs for the other namebrand vendors "minus the bearings". You may be right, but anymore who know what comes from where. I was told SKF is OEM in alot of cars. One vendor stated that he thought AC Delco was made by SKF and stamped with there name then doubled the markup. ???????
Hey guys, I know this is a fairly common question so I thought I would share my research/quest for wheel bearings. I found these to be as good of a "street use" bearing you can get and they are made right here in the USA. WBI (Wheel Bearings Inc.) Make the hubs in *******, MI. and use USA only NTN bearings. They claim a 1% defect rate.
The cheapest source is mibearings.com out of MI. You can get the #513020HD which are a tappered bearing for $133 or the standards for $101. All other companies I looked into (none race) are made overseas.
Even the MOOG Hubs are owned by National and use Federl Mogal bearings from overseas, which are claimed to be not as good as the Timkens but more exspensive. The SKF's are souposed to be a realy good bearing but they are still imported. Just My 2 cents from some reaserch I thought I would share. At least you know what you are getting and your money supports USA jobs
I have one WBI rear wheel bearing I purchased from Summit on my car. 20+ drag strip passes, 14 auto-x events and 6K+ street miles still tight, all on street tires.
I have one WBI rear wheel bearing I purchased from Summit on my car. 20+ drag strip passes, 14 auto-x events and 6K+ street miles still tight, all on street tires.
If you start the engine the car will go quicker and the bearings will wear faster
On a serious note, hopefully WBI has improved. Several years back I gave their rear hubs a try. After a full day at the track I needed to check the torque on the lug nuts before heading onto the course. Set the trusty Snap-On torque wrench on 100 ft/lbs, put it on the first lug nut and spiiiiiiiiin. Second lug nut....Spiiiiiiiiin. Yep, every one on both sides of the car. The studs were spinning in the hub. You wanna talk about a PIA trying to get the wheels off so I could replace the hubs.... Never had that happen with Delco, Timken, or SKF.
If you start the engine the car will go quicker and the bearings will wear faster
On a serious note, hopefully WBI has improved. Several years back I gave their rear hubs a try. After a full day at the track I needed to check the torque on the lug nuts before heading onto the course. Set the trusty Snap-On torque wrench on 100 ft/lbs, put it on the first lug nut and spiiiiiiiiin. Second lug nut....Spiiiiiiiiin. Yep, every one on both sides of the car. The studs were spinning in the hub. You wanna talk about a PIA trying to get the wheels off so I could replace the hubs.... Never had that happen with Delco, Timken, or SKF.
From all the old post I reed you will here about a failure of some sort with all the above brand names when it comes to trake use. Yours is the first one I reed regarding studs spinning. Very interesting none the less. Did you determine why they were spinning? To large of tolerence in the press fit, Cheap stud metal, Cheap hub metal? For all them to spin on the hub like that it sounds like a tolerance issue? Brings up a good topic thanks!
Has anyone else had this issue with WBI bearings? Post your experience!
Will someone tell me wwhat the deal w/ huubs are? I hear people talk about desstroying a set of hubs after 2 track sessions (esp. Autox). I've been through a dozen or so autox events and prob 7 high speed track days and never had an issue. Recently with slicks. This is on a 93
Of course I'm not mario andretti out there, but I'm not the slowest eitherr
I recently picked up some nos front hub assemblies in anticipation for needing themm sometime in the future.
Can somebody put the bearing SKF references? Because of my job I can get that brand a very good price.
I'm right with this reference for all wheels? BR930024HD
the front and rear hubs are different. rear has the splines in the center for half shaft end. fronts have a sealing cap in the center. front uses 4 bolts and rear uses 3 to fasten on. could be more differences. looking these are easy to see. doubt they have same number.
these that i got were NAPA by SKF boxed. BR930024 matches the back hubs #.
$220. each.
fronts were NAPA PBR930023. they were $90. each. made in china.
really wanted the SKF'S for front, couldn't find a pair in the NAPA system for front.
wanted SKF's as they are much more robust looking than the knock offs
On the SKF and NTN bearings that have a "HD" after the part number implies they are tappered bearings. I would assume that tappered bearings will give you better side loading. The Heavy Duty WBI hubs with NTN bearings all USA made are only $30 more each. Worth it to upgrade at that price if you ask me.
The WBI website reccomends 180 ft.lbs. tourqe
Last edited by C4vettrn; Nov 9, 2012 at 09:30 AM.
Reason: edit
the front and rear hubs are different. rear has the splines in the center for half shaft end. fronts have a sealing cap in the center. front uses 4 bolts and rear uses 3 to fasten on. could be more differences. looking these are easy to see. doubt they have same number.
these that i got were NAPA by SKF boxed. BR930024 matches the back hubs #.
$220. each.
fronts were NAPA PBR930023. they were $90. each. made in china.
really wanted the SKF'S for front, couldn't find a pair in the NAPA system for front.
wanted SKF's as they are much more robust looking than the knock offs
From all the old post I reed you will here about a failure of some sort with all the above brand names when it comes to trake use. Yours is the first one I reed regarding studs spinning. Very interesting none the less. Did you determine why they were spinning? To large of tolerence in the press fit, Cheap stud metal, Cheap hub metal? For all them to spin on the hub like that it sounds like a tolerance issue? Brings up a good topic thanks!
Has anyone else had this issue with WBI bearings? Post your experience!
Personally I think the holes were over-sized a few thousandths. I was not in a position while at the track to measure anything and frankly with all the spinning I doubt any measurement would have been accurate. With R-compound tires, the hubs see a lot of stress.
Regarding wear...When I was running Hoosier R-compound tires...I was going through rear hubs (regardless of brand) in a few days or less. This is on technical road courses with 3-4 hours of track time per day. On less technical tracks, the hubs would last several weekends. FWIW, I was going through front hubs in less than a day. This gets expensive after awhile (and constant nightly hub swaps during a track weekend becomes a nuisance), hence the experimentation with cheaper bearings and a variety of brands...ie I would gladly pay twice the price if the product lasted longer.
With street tires, I would expect these bearings to last a long time. "Spirited" street driving on street tires in no way shape or form replicates track driving.
Will someone tell me wwhat the deal w/ huubs are? I hear people talk about desstroying a set of hubs after 2 track sessions (esp. Autox). I've been through a dozen or so autox events and prob 7 high speed track days and never had an issue. Recently with slicks. This is on a 93
Of course I'm not mario andretti out there, but I'm not the slowest eitherr
I recently picked up some nos front hub assemblies in anticipation for needing themm sometime in the future.
Better nos than made in china imho.
Switch to Hoosiers (or equivalent), really set up the suspension for the track, go to an aggressive alignment (for instance, my front camber was -2.2*), and drive on a technical track and you'll be zapping hubs like the rest of us
On the SKF and NTN bearings that have a "HD" after the part number implies they are tappered bearings. I would assume that tappered bearings will give you better side loading. The Heavy Duty WBI hubs with NTN bearings all USA made are only $30 more each. Worth it to upgrade at that price if you ask me.
The WBI website reccomends 180 ft.lbs. tourqe
agree with you on buying u s made. thought i was getting u s made with the SKF's. one reason was disappointed not getting fronts that wanted. didn't check any where else as live in a small town and try to support local NAPA when ever i can. mechanic here and have to live with these guys, good guys any way.
Switch to Hoosiers (or equivalent), really set up the suspension for the track, go to an aggressive alignment (for instance, my front camber was -2.2*), and drive on a technical track and you'll be zapping hubs like the rest of us
With that kind of grip, setup, and use the wheel hubs on a C4 are a wear item. Gotta pay to play. If I was changing them every event, I'd be running the cheap hubs. Then again maybe not...loose is one thing, failure at 120MPH going into a braking zone is another.
Hey 96GS#007, how is this for a little bearing wear.
Granted not a long, hard course, but I do drive my car.
Street tires however...makes a difference.
With that kind of grip, setup, and use the wheel hubs on a C4 are a wear item. Gotta pay to play. If I was changing them every event, I'd be running the cheap hubs. Then again maybe not...loose is one thing, failure at 120MPH going into a braking zone is another.
Hey 96GS#007, how is this for a little bearing wear.
Granted not a long, hard course, but I do drive my car.
Street tires however...makes a difference.
on the driving. You have got to start doing track days. You'll like them a lot more than auto-x (sorry ax guys). Spend 8 hours at an auto-x course and run 6 times for maybe 10 minutes of fun. Spend 8 hours at the race track and spend 4 hours having a blast.
I agree...hubs are like pads and brake rotors and tires and...well.....just another wear item
Last edited by 96GS#007; Nov 10, 2012 at 12:31 AM.