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Installing a new clutch in '96 LT4 car. Car won't start. Took off everything and this is what the pressure point looks like. What could be causing it?

 

Clutch fork is rubbing on the pressure plate. Typically means one of two things...

1) Clutch fork is bent
2) Ball stud has started to back out of the bellhousing and needs to be screwed back in.

#2 above is the most likely reason.

If you installed a new flywheel, it could be the thickness of the flywheel as well.

 

Did you do only a clutch or also a flywheel? Whose flywheel if you did?

 

Will the pressure plate have to be replaced because of the clutch fork rubbing on it?

 

On a sidenote:

I see thats not a Valeo pressure plate. Im pretty sure its a 'made in china' pressure plate.

Might want to see if you can dig up a new old stock 'Valeo' one while you have it apart.

There is a guy selling these new old stock parts right now in the parts for sale section.

Though to be honest with you, Ive been using one just like yours (made-in-china) for 4 years without any problems. However, I have been told the fingers wont go thru as many cycles before they fail as the NOS valeo. Could be a moot point though

All this said, Im gonna switch back to a NOS valeo lt4 pressure plate and throwout bearing that Jim at Power Torque Systems set me up with next time I pull the clutch apart.

Someone actually did a study (f-body website) that showed the chinese pressure plate actually had a little bit higher of clamp force than the NOS lt4 valeo pressure plate (from what i hear, the lt4 is the most common pressure plate duplicated for all kinds of lt1/lt4 clutch kits due to its higher clamp force).

Id also balance the flywheel to the pressure plate. Especially if you reuse that one with the scrapes on it.

 

Depends if you want to chance an out of balance condition that will take out the bearings. How lucky do you feel?

 

Luck has never been on my side. Where would I go about doing all of these things yall have suggested?

 

You never answered - Did you replace also the flywheel or NOT? Has a good bit to do with your next move I'd think.

 

he has not replaced the flywheel nor had the flywheel turned.

 

had a throwout bearing making noise so was just going to change out clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and pilot seeing now as its my first time should have just changed the throwout bearing as the clutch for pivot was backing out wasn't going to turn flywheel now with all of these issues respect your advise.

 

I NEVER mentioned facing the flywheel. I was curious whether you had purchased new or NOT. You could have been sold a flywheel that's 90 or so thousands of an inch to thick.

 

where in this great country can I have my flywheel turned?

 

If you still have the stock dual mass flywheel, you can't have it turned. Machining will damage the internal dampening springs. It can be sanded and smoothed out by hand if it is in otherwise good shape.

The clutchfork ball stud can back out. It can also wear out, as was my case. The clutchfork had worn grooves into it causing excess travel where the fork would rub the pressure plate. The sound was intense, so I caught it very quickly. Didn't do anything near the damage you have there, though.

 

where can you get the flywheel balanced with the pressure plate

 

I've just been reading my Field Service Manual on this proceedure. There are alot of little things that go into this. It is definitely one of those things that if I've never done this before, I would want the FSM and/or someone who has helping me.

After looking at the FSM, I realize that I do not have enough info on what has/hasn't been done to give any clear input other than a guess.

I would recommend at this time to load the car on a flatbed and take it to a good transmission shop. There are just too many variables here.

 

Not to Hi jack the thread, but I have a 93. It needs a clutch after everything I read it quite frankly scares the hell out of me. One of the reason I bought this car over the ferrari I was looking at was the serviceablity of it. Now I cant go to NAPA and pickup a clutch much, less id the one I have. Please share some info to help me go in the right direction.
Thanks in advance

 

I'd check with a few local machine shops, speed shops, tuners, engine builders, etc for a recommendation to a good balance shop.

Live well,

SJW

 

It's nothing to fear. The first decision you should make is whether to replace the dual-mass flywheel with a single-mass unit, or to stick with the dual-mass.

New DMFs are no longer available unless you get lucky and score an NOS unit on e-bay or some such. If your existing DMF is in good shape, you can reuse it, but you cannot resurface it as you could a conventional SMF.

If you decide to punt the DMF entirely in favor of a SMF, you have several choices available. Be aware that many who have done so have ended up with varying amounts of gear rattle out of the ZF-6 gearbox (which is why the OEM setup used the DMF). Lightweight SMFs tend to lead to more gear rattle than heavier units.

I went with a complete package from Spec for my '94 LT1 car a couple of years ago. I installed the Spec extra-weight billet steel SMF in the hope that I could prevent a lot of gear rattle, and it worked out well for me. The clutch was Spec's Stage 2 unit, which has been very satisfactory so far. The kit included pressure plate, kevlar-faced disc, release bearing, pilot bushing (which I elected to not use, opting instead for a new OEM roller bearing), new bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate, and a cheapie plastic clutch alignment tool.

Go with a proven package such as Spec offers, and it should work out just fine for you.

Live well,

SJW