When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My method: remove the six knee bolster carpet screws, 2 outside and 4 inside ( the 2 outside are torx).Remove the metal panel, 2 outside and 2 inside. Remove the one screw holding programmer in place, spread the vacuum lines with fingers in order to get a small flat blade under the cheap little stamped metal retaining nut. Pry it up a small distance so that you may get a hold with small needle nose pliers. Rip that #$%^ out of there. (If you need a little extra pull, think of holding the gonads of the engineer that came up with the mickey mouse idea in the first place). remove the vacuum line manifold and then remove the electrical connection, ( easy, gently pry the two retaining clips off, GENTLY!).
Upon replacement, I found a small piece of rubber tube that slid over the bolt srew of the vacuum line fitting (manifold) and backed it up with a small nut.
A/C controller is now positive and sure. The controller hesitated after the first start as if to say "new hardware detected and is now booting up". :seeya
Re: Just replaced my A/C programmer (southern_son)
I had to replace the programmer in order to direct the vacuum to the correct solenoids so that the air flow would come out of the correct vents (or registers). I could not get the air flow out of the panel vents no matter what I tried on many occasions. Other times the air flow would simply dump out of the defroster and leg vents only. Programmer fixed it right up!
I got it from the Last Detail for $182 w/exchange. I believe your problem sounds more like the controller (in the dash) instead of the programmer.
Could be solder joint on the controller or the programmer or a loose wire. The leds on the controller on the dash got flaky on mine which appeared to be poorly done solder joints.