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Acouple weeks back I asked for help about a code 32 I only get driving the highway after going about 15 miles or so, this is when the dreaded service engine light pops on. I recieved some good advise from some of you and I'm asking again. I changed three items. 1. EGR Valve, 2. EGR Switch and 3rd was EGR Temp switch. After all this I took off for a small trip about 65 miles each way. I got passed the 15 miles or so and thought I got it. At 62 miles the light came on. I cleared the code coming back and the engine light never came back on going home. What happened and should I do something else? Thanks for any advise on this matter.
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Re: 89 vette code 32 update (dwh)
Did you use a stock GM replacement EGR or an aftermarket?
If GM then you may have to check for vacuum leaks, especially on the vacuum tubes running to the EGR and EGR solinoid. Step after that is probably pull intake manifold and check for clogged EGR passages. Can't think of much else right now.
You might even check the new components installed to verify all is ok with them. That is, pull the low side solenoid (Gry) to ground and the high side (Pnk/Blk) to +12Vdc and verify that the temp. sw goes to ground shortly thereafter (you may need to raise idle a little to get enough heat).
Double check that your EGR temp switch wire is routed properly and not touching the manifold or EGR tube, or anything else that gets super hot. Also check the connections on the EGR temp switch and EGR solenoid and make sure they are making good contact.
Also, check the ceramic (or whatever that is) seal on top of the EGR temp switch, where the wire goes in, that can sometimes crack/crumble if twisted or stressed and it will make the wire loose.
The plastic tubing from the EGR to the front of the manifold rubber thingy looked ok. I pulled it out to give it a vacuum test - it was already cracked because it broke right off. Fortunately, I was able to cut off the jagged part and pull out the broken piece, and reconnect. No more 32!!! Hope it's this easy for you. :cheers:
I just went thru this. I changed the solinoid and then the temp switch at pass rear mounted in the EGR tube. Old one had a loose center connector, I found this out after I removed it probably just needed to be tightened a couple turns at the connector. Problem seems to be solved, an hours worth of highway speed which would trigger the SES before causes no problem.( fingers crossed)
One point, the temp switch was removed and replaced in 5 minutes. The connector under the distributor took three hours and about 3 square inches of skin! What a bitch. I even contemplated Distributor removal just to get my hands or a tool on it.
Barrier