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Night and day difference.
Forget all the "high revving" nonsense about the 350 327 etc go big as you can afford you wont regret it.
Either is a step up from a 350. A 396 will still give good geometry and durability while making more torque everywhere. But you need good parts (4340 crank, stroker rods) which is more expensive. These days you can build a cast crank external balance 383 for the same money as a 350. The extra cubes are well worth the effort.
Given similar cams, how bad does fuel economy take a 'dump' from going 350 to 383 or 396?
I mean I know using fuel economy and performance in the same sentence is an oxymoron...
but im just sayin
Economy doesn't suffer as much as you would think. I found my around town mileage dropped but highway mileage is close to the same. Naturally the results depend on the build and the driver. My foot gets kind of heavy.
The only reason I can think of, would be if you want to run real high boost. The pistons can be stronger in a 350 design. At least that is my understanding. I will try to find a post by ? lcvette about this. The reason I mention this to you is I know you are running or going to run a blower.
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For me, 10% increase in cost provided that 10% bump in cubes. The result was a lot higher though. 25% gain in useable torque with 30% gain in rwhp. HP could have been more too...had I installed a different intake.
Mileage dropped about 10%. Maybe a bit less but, as WW7 said, you're right foot tends to get heavier enjoying the newfound power.
The difference is pretty significant in how the car drives. 3rd and 4th gear have lots more useable "fun" than before. With a 350, those gears made me yawn.
Bottom line is: If you're willing to spend 10% more -- both on build and fuel costs, the percentage fun is much higher. Biggest issue is whether you'll spring for heads in the project. With the stock/ported heads, I suspect the difference in performance is much closer to the money spent.
Though you really don't need a larger throttle body, intake, exhaust, and heads are part of the consideration when looking to expand on the OEM config. If you're focusing on crank stroke (only), the difference won't be as much as this thread will lead you to believe -- though you'll certainly still notice the difference!
With good, supporting parts, it's like getting out of a 350 and jumping in a 427 (from the 60's).
How about a 350 vs 383 in a car that does track days/auto X ? I have yet to drive a 383 .
A 350 will live forever . 350 wil have a better rod ratio ,rev easier and probably a little higher .
Do I want a motor that will pull down the longest straight ,or bottom end ,for off the corner .
Dont mean to highjack the thread . just a question that has been bothering me .
A 383 can rev just fine.
One with 6 in rods same as a stock 350 rod ratio which can handle revs just fine. If youre in Socal you can give my 383 a shot. It pulls pretty hard and at 5k feels like you got rearend fun stuff.
Little less windage with a 350 but thats always fixable
How about a 350 vs 383 in a car that does track days/auto X ? I have yet to drive a 383 .
A 350 will live forever . 350 wil have a better rod ratio ,rev easier and probably a little higher .
Do I want a motor that will pull down the longest straight ,or bottom end ,for off the corner .
Dont mean to highjack the thread . just a question that has been bothering me .
Depends on budget and classing plus tuning to the max. You could cut timing to lessen HP but keep TQ, then end up faster and not dyno out of class. For how fast mine is and how much it cost I'm very happy with my 355. Any more power and it would up $$$ class.
The problem with a 383+ is putting the power down( small wheel base+IRS= going nowhere fast) . And when you do, you start braking stuff. I'd much rather have a 355 that revs 7500rpm. I wish I could get my hands on one of those 5.2 liter v10s.
How about a 350 vs 383 in a car that does track days/auto X ? I have yet to drive a 383 .
A 350 will live forever . 350 wil have a better rod ratio ,rev easier and probably a little higher .
Do I want a motor that will pull down the longest straight ,or bottom end ,for off the corner .
Dont mean to highjack the thread . just a question that has been bothering me .
No comparison. It's all depends on how you build it. With my 383, peak hp was a little over 6100rpm...450rwhp, which is >500hp at the crank. It has 3 years and several thousand miles on road courses, doesn't leak a drop and is as tight as day 1 with nothing more than normal maintenance such as plugs, wires, oil, and filters. In addition it passes the WA state sniffer test (and OBD II plug-in test), idles at 800rpm all day long with just a hint of lope, has virtually no cam surge, and gets low 20s mpg on the freeway.
I ran a variety of 350 engines for many years and the 383 was a big step up.
The only reason I can think of, would be if you want to run real high boost. The pistons can be stronger in a 350 design. At least that is my understanding. I will try to find a post by ? lcvette about this. The reason I mention this to you is I know you are running or going to run a blower.
see i would think the low end TQ of more cubes would nicely compliment the mid-range / upper end power of a centrifugal blower.
I honestly dont think it'd make any difference in my eventual goals of 800 rwhp.