Question about C-4 to C-5 brake conversion
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Question about C-4 to C-5 brake conversion
I have a 96 LT-4 convertible and I need a total brake job. I’ve Got 102,000 on the clock.
If I go with the C-5 conversion is there a big difference over the stock C-4?
Can I use my existing saw blades?
While I’m in there I plan on changing to SS braided lines, new shocks and ball joints. Should I be including any thing else while I got it torn down?
Thanks
If I go with the C-5 conversion is there a big difference over the stock C-4?
Can I use my existing saw blades?
While I’m in there I plan on changing to SS braided lines, new shocks and ball joints. Should I be including any thing else while I got it torn down?
Thanks
#2
Le Mans Master
You're not going to gain much if the car is street driven, other than looks. On the track, the C5 system will be more resistant to fade than your stock J55 13" brakes. The rotors are thicker and the caliper is more rigid.
Realistically, it's not a good return on investment, unless you are after improved looks.
Sawblades will not clear the calipers.
Realistically, it's not a good return on investment, unless you are after improved looks.
Sawblades will not clear the calipers.
#3
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I think if I started with J55s I'd go to C6 brakes, it requires the same adapter bracket.
C5s are marginal improvement over the J55, and not all sawblades will clear.
You would probably need new wheels for C5, and definitely C6.
You may choose to just paint your current calipers, or go with a better pad.
C5s are marginal improvement over the J55, and not all sawblades will clear.
You would probably need new wheels for C5, and definitely C6.
You may choose to just paint your current calipers, or go with a better pad.
#4
Drifting
After with the others. On a street driven car my c5 upgrade was not much over the j55 but I enjoy the appearance improvement. Also it's nice to know that all the components are new
And in good working condition. Under hard braking condition there is a noticeable difference especially with the drm bias spring upgrade.
And in good working condition. Under hard braking condition there is a noticeable difference especially with the drm bias spring upgrade.
#5
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This is a promising thread. That would be a great upgrade. How come I've never seen a thread like this one before?
#6
For the benefit of anyone considering the upgrade...
there are/were 2 mfg of the "sawblade" ...one clears easily,(Enkei) the other (??)requires a minimal amount of work. One mfg had a slightly larger ID of the rim...that one fits over the upgrade. The other rim rides on the new caliper cooling fins...not a big deal. Just grind 'em down enough to clear.
The wheel is slightly conical inside...if you use an adpator/spacer on the hub, that is often enough to push the wheel out enough to clear the caliper IF you happen to have 'blades that hang ...
or grind the edges of the caliper fins down about 1/8" or a bit more. Grind most at the outside edge, moving inward and grinding less. Lay the wheel on the ground face down, lay your rotor inside with the caliper over the rotor. This way you can see where to grind and why. Again, the wheel is slightly cone shaped inside so the grinding is only necessary at the outside edges of the fins and somewhat inward. Its a tight fit when done but very do-able at the home-shop.
Its trial & error but its not terrible...aluminum grinds down easily and since its just the edges of the fins, its hard to F.U.
there are/were 2 mfg of the "sawblade" ...one clears easily,(Enkei) the other (??)requires a minimal amount of work. One mfg had a slightly larger ID of the rim...that one fits over the upgrade. The other rim rides on the new caliper cooling fins...not a big deal. Just grind 'em down enough to clear.
The wheel is slightly conical inside...if you use an adpator/spacer on the hub, that is often enough to push the wheel out enough to clear the caliper IF you happen to have 'blades that hang ...
or grind the edges of the caliper fins down about 1/8" or a bit more. Grind most at the outside edge, moving inward and grinding less. Lay the wheel on the ground face down, lay your rotor inside with the caliper over the rotor. This way you can see where to grind and why. Again, the wheel is slightly cone shaped inside so the grinding is only necessary at the outside edges of the fins and somewhat inward. Its a tight fit when done but very do-able at the home-shop.
Its trial & error but its not terrible...aluminum grinds down easily and since its just the edges of the fins, its hard to F.U.
#7
Tech Contributor
The C6 Carbon ceramic rotors would be better. Can you search for me?
Last edited by 96GS#007; 12-17-2012 at 11:42 AM.
#8
Tech Contributor
I have a 96 LT-4 convertible and I need a total brake job. I’ve Got 102,000 on the clock.
If I go with the C-5 conversion is there a big difference over the stock C-4?
Can I use my existing saw blades?
While I’m in there I plan on changing to SS braided lines, new shocks and ball joints. Should I be including any thing else while I got it torn down?
Thanks
If I go with the C-5 conversion is there a big difference over the stock C-4?
Can I use my existing saw blades?
While I’m in there I plan on changing to SS braided lines, new shocks and ball joints. Should I be including any thing else while I got it torn down?
Thanks
You want better braking, buy better pads and bleed the fluid. 102k miles is no reason to change the braking system unless you want different cosmetics or you plan to use the car on a road course and need to address brake fade and feel.
#9
Team Owner
Your car already has 13" front rotors. For street use and even autocross events, your stock brakes will work fine.
I would simply go with new rotors on all 4 corners, a set of good performance pads, new flex hoses (the SS lines will work well) and a complete flush of the old brake fluid and use a good quality DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA or even the Ford HD Motorsports fluid.
If the calipers are the originals with the 102K miles on them, then you may want to consider replacements. You can get quality reman calipers that come "unloaded" so you can use your choice of pads.
I would simply go with new rotors on all 4 corners, a set of good performance pads, new flex hoses (the SS lines will work well) and a complete flush of the old brake fluid and use a good quality DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA or even the Ford HD Motorsports fluid.
If the calipers are the originals with the 102K miles on them, then you may want to consider replacements. You can get quality reman calipers that come "unloaded" so you can use your choice of pads.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Yep!
Looks like I'm saving some $$$$.
I forgot to mention the changing of the brake fluid. That's a must.
Any suggestion on real good streetable brake pads?
thanks
Mike
Looks like I'm saving some $$$$.
I forgot to mention the changing of the brake fluid. That's a must.
Any suggestion on real good streetable brake pads?
thanks
Mike
#11
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I think if I started with J55s I'd go to C6 brakes, it requires the same adapter bracket.
C5s are marginal improvement over the J55, and not all sawblades will clear.
You would probably need new wheels for C5, and definitely C6.
You may choose to just paint your current calipers, or go with a better pad.
C5s are marginal improvement over the J55, and not all sawblades will clear.
You would probably need new wheels for C5, and definitely C6.
You may choose to just paint your current calipers, or go with a better pad.
Just to clarify, the C5 and C6 base model have the exact same brakes. The caliper design of the C6 is a little stronger, but the piston size, rotor size, and pad size is the same. The C6 Z51 uses a .5" larger rotor but pads and calipers remain the same. I think vader was referring to needing new wheels with the C6 Z51 since they are larger in diameter.
#12
Tech Contributor
I've used Hawk, Performance Friction, and a variety of other pads over the years. Once I switched to Carbotech, I haven't used anything else.
#13
Le Mans Master
Measure your caliper "spread". If you are lucky and its been a street car all its life it should be 0.
If the brake fluid has not been changed every two years - rebuild the calipers! Getting the dust boot on is the hardest part of that job.
buying rebuilt calipers is hit and miss because you could get the smaller front calipers in the box.
Use a good brake fluid - Valvoline Syntec is my favorite.
I'll second the "Call Carbotech" and get either the street pads (low dust), AX pads (more dust)
Good luck!
#14
Safety Car
I have a 95 with J55 Hawk pads stainless lines ,stops on a dime . I tryed it on my 96 did not work ,just wern't very good brakes so went to the C-5 F. Hawk pads stainless lines reworked the back brakes ,stop with the newer ones..I had a friend stop in front of me the other day he was in a 2006 vet @ **mph was 4 cars behind him dog ran out he stoped I stoped one car behind him ...Money VERY WELL SPENT....I have A-Molds on my 96 have to be carful with wheels some won't work... I have pic of brakes @ radar502..
#15
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Mike, check out the Carbotech 1521 for a great street pad. I will be happy to help out if you are interested.
The Carbotech™ 1521™ is our high performance street compound. The 1521™ compound is known for its release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. 1521™ is also a very low dusting and low noise compound with an excellent initial bite. This compound's excellent linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Carbotech™ 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 800°F (426°C+). 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle or fleet vehicle. Carbotech™ 1521™ is NOT recommended for ANY track use.
F $142 R $127 Less 5% forum pricing.
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Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
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Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#16
Safety Car
I changed over from Hawk HP+ to hawk Ceramice ,,Not cheap but work very good for what I do with the vet.. ..The Hps, dust lots dust and hard to get off the parts ,but would stop right now pads loved them..The Ceramice have dust but it will wash off stuff.. I'm sure the Carbotech are good also...my try a set on my wife's Hot Rod Audi... I have about $1,200 in my 96 brake set up ( Priceless ) for the times they save my B-Hind...