flush raditor
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
The full monty is to pull it remove one jacket and rod the core as if you were cleaning a couple dozen .22 rifles. (if you do this be sure you have a gasket and be aware those tabs are old)
I would just pull the lower hose off the pump and the upper hose off the thermostat housing and run water through until no more crud comes out.
I would just pull the lower hose off the pump and the upper hose off the thermostat housing and run water through until no more crud comes out.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Or...
you can install a hose adaptor in the heater hose, open the drain valve on the radiator, connect water hose and flush till your hearts content.
This will do a semi reverse flush BUT keep in mind that the T-stat is blocking that portion of the system so it takes a little extra flushing to get everything. I'd d/c the top hose at the t-stat housing and let the flush exit the top hose as it fills from below.
I keep my adaptor inline with a 1/4" ball valve so it can be used as a way to fill, flush, vent off pressure and air. I keep a short section of cheapo water hose coiled up in the headlite well so I can connect it and vent pressure and coolant to the ground or somewhere other than the engine bay.
you can install a hose adaptor in the heater hose, open the drain valve on the radiator, connect water hose and flush till your hearts content.
This will do a semi reverse flush BUT keep in mind that the T-stat is blocking that portion of the system so it takes a little extra flushing to get everything. I'd d/c the top hose at the t-stat housing and let the flush exit the top hose as it fills from below.
I keep my adaptor inline with a 1/4" ball valve so it can be used as a way to fill, flush, vent off pressure and air. I keep a short section of cheapo water hose coiled up in the headlite well so I can connect it and vent pressure and coolant to the ground or somewhere other than the engine bay.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,796
Likes: 14
From: Nampa Idaho
The procedure in the service manual calls for removing the knock sensors at the bottom of the block to drain the old coolant from the block. The manual also states to not use any chemical cooling system cleaners unless there is evidence of corrosion. These caustic cleaners may ruin the bond between the plastic radiator tanks and the aluminum tubes.
The manual says to flush the system, remove the knock sensors and drain the radiator. Refill with clean water, run the engine for a few minutes, drain and refill again. The knock sensors hide behind a metal heat shield which is plainly visible in the center of the block above the oiul pan rail. You need a 22mm socket to remove the sensors. Expect lots of coolant to drain! Also remove the plastic overflow tank, drain and clean it out. No need to reinstall yet.
This would be a good time to change the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Open the bleed valve on the thermostat housing and on the driver's side of the throttle body. With all of the old water out, pour in 2 gallons of antifreeze. IIRC, your 94 used the green (ethlyene glycol) coolant.
Get 3 gallons of distilled water from the local grocery store (About a buck a gallon). Add the distilled water until coolant comes out the bleed valves steadily the close both valves. NOTE: keep the coolant away from the Opti!! Use old towels or fashion a drain tray from aluminum foil. Soak the Opti and many hundreds of dollars later, your car will run again!
Continuing filling with the water until it reaches the base of the filler neck in the expansion tank. Start the engine and let it idle; keep an eye on the digital temp dispaly. When the thermostat opens, refill the expansion tank back to the base of the neck. If the temps climb to 220-230, shut the motor down and let it cool and re-start.
Once the level stays constant, shut the motor off, re-install the overflow tank and replace the radiator cap. Make up a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and the distilled watrer and fill the overflow tank to the cold level.
The service manual also states to not perform any full-throttle acceleration until the engine has gone thru 3 complete cycles of cold to operating temp and back to cold. If there are any air pockets left, full-throttle operation may cause excess pressure in the system. Cycling the coolant temp allows air to eventually work it's way out.
The manual says to flush the system, remove the knock sensors and drain the radiator. Refill with clean water, run the engine for a few minutes, drain and refill again. The knock sensors hide behind a metal heat shield which is plainly visible in the center of the block above the oiul pan rail. You need a 22mm socket to remove the sensors. Expect lots of coolant to drain! Also remove the plastic overflow tank, drain and clean it out. No need to reinstall yet.
This would be a good time to change the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Open the bleed valve on the thermostat housing and on the driver's side of the throttle body. With all of the old water out, pour in 2 gallons of antifreeze. IIRC, your 94 used the green (ethlyene glycol) coolant.
Get 3 gallons of distilled water from the local grocery store (About a buck a gallon). Add the distilled water until coolant comes out the bleed valves steadily the close both valves. NOTE: keep the coolant away from the Opti!! Use old towels or fashion a drain tray from aluminum foil. Soak the Opti and many hundreds of dollars later, your car will run again!
Continuing filling with the water until it reaches the base of the filler neck in the expansion tank. Start the engine and let it idle; keep an eye on the digital temp dispaly. When the thermostat opens, refill the expansion tank back to the base of the neck. If the temps climb to 220-230, shut the motor down and let it cool and re-start.
Once the level stays constant, shut the motor off, re-install the overflow tank and replace the radiator cap. Make up a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and the distilled watrer and fill the overflow tank to the cold level.
The service manual also states to not perform any full-throttle acceleration until the engine has gone thru 3 complete cycles of cold to operating temp and back to cold. If there are any air pockets left, full-throttle operation may cause excess pressure in the system. Cycling the coolant temp allows air to eventually work it's way out.
