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Yes mine is pegged at 255 from about 5k rpm on up. I have a wide band installed to tune off of but dyno time is easier. I used a C5 air bridge over the radiator and it was to short. I had to cut it in half and and make an extension section. Turned out to be to much of a project! I would use tubing like above instead as long as the downward turn part doesn't get to small. I also made a similar L bracket but mine are much smaller.
One more thing I noticed, since you obviuously have to make the hose oval shaped for hood clearance, isn't that pretty much taking you back to the same restriction as the stock air box?
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
One more thing I noticed, since you obviuously have to make the hose oval shaped for hood clearance, isn't that pretty much taking you back to the same restriction as the stock air box?
I don't know that changing a circle to an oval changes cross-section (survace area) at any given point. If it hasn't been "shrunk", it should be the same.
It wasn't even clear if that's the restriction point in the stock air box. I wondered if it was really the lid/filter combo? But attacking both points does seem the best approach.
(I'm still trying to decipher the last two sentences of Aardwolf's last post though.)
Circle to oval is fine, the change in angle by the filter would be more of a concern. IIRC I paid $35 for the C5 air bridge, tubes, and filter. I had to make an adapter ring to fit the smaller stock MAF. I thought of making a thread about it but didn't get to it, and wasn't sure there was interest. I took a quick picture:
And, did you have to heat/bend the elbow? I wonder if it could ever collapse?
(And, should we ask if you noticed any difference vs. the stock air box?)
I got the hose off ebay, it was a chinese supplier but the postage was cheap and reasonably quick, I bought a length of straight and a 45 degree bend, where you see the 2 clamps half way along the straight is a piece of 3" alloy inside as a connector,
the silicone seems to be pretty tough stuff and has held its shape for quite a while now,
as for any difference, i have no empirical proof other than the buttmeter, but i know from the gopro footage in the car at the hillclimb it will rev to 5500 pretty quick going up hill so it must be working ok
Circle to oval is fine, the change in angle by the filter would be more of a concern. IIRC I paid $35 for the C5 air bridge, tubes, and filter. I had to make an adapter ring to fit the smaller stock MAF. I thought of making a thread about it but didn't get to it, and wasn't sure there was interest. I took a quick picture:
The one I got looked like that yes. But the one you linked looks like plastic and that would be more difficult to modify to fit across the C4 radiator. The one I got was used from C5 parts and made from carbon fiber. My father has heat activated carbon sheets from his R/C plane hobby and I layered some of those on to extend the middle.
The cone filter doesn't fit that space to well either. A fan shaped filter would work better (wide/flat instead of round).
The one I got looked like that yes. But the one you linked looks like plastic and that would be more difficult to modify to fit across the C4 radiator. The one I got was used from C5 parts and made from carbon fiber. My father has heat activated carbon sheets from his R/C plane hobby and I layered some of those on to extend the middle.
The cone filter doesn't fit that space to well either. A fan shaped filter would work better (wide/flat instead of round).
the one on ebay are stock i suppose they are all plastic
so it was not a simple bolt on, it has to be modded,
maybe it would be easier to go silicone and just "smash" it when the hood is closed to hold it in place"friction fit" so to speak, stick a fan or round universal filter and call it a day.
I got the hose off ebay, it was a chinese supplier but the postage was cheap and reasonably quick, I bought a length of straight and a 45 degree bend, where you see the 2 clamps half way along the straight is a piece of 3" alloy inside as a connector,
the silicone seems to be pretty tough stuff and has held its shape for quite a while now,
as for any difference, i have no empirical proof other than the buttmeter, but i know from the gopro footage in the car at the hillclimb it will rev to 5500 pretty quick going up hill so it must be working ok
I ordered the three items I listed in an earlier post and I could have made them all work except the cone filter, it was too big to clear the hood. I have decided that I will wait & see just what the dyno tells me when I get the car running. If it shows a problem I will then pursue a different air intake but until I see proof that the stock airbox is insufficient I am going to leave it on the car. If I have a huge air inlet on one side of the maf and my 80mm LS throttle body on the other it may mess everything up.
I de-screened my MAF 7 years ago when I first got the 88 and passed every smog check since.
I now have a few mods and a custom tune, still pass smog in Cali.
Well, I lied, I can't bear to leave the stock airbox in there so, blackozvette, I am going to borrow, (steal) your idea. I like that setup so I am going to do one similar with a different shaped filter. Thanks for posting that pic!
Well, I lied, I can't bear to leave the stock airbox in there so, blackozvette, I am going to borrow, (steal) your idea. I like that setup so I am going to do one similar with a different shaped filter. Thanks for posting that pic!
I think the trick to getting the pod filter in is the 45 degree silicone hose, it fits perfectly along the top of the radiator and down the shroud and allows the filter to sit nicely in the gap,
I recently put a new filter in,
The other issue that people overlook is the extra surface area of a pod filter v a flat filter,
the flat filter is 14" x 7" = 98 squ inch,
the cone filter is 18" x 6" = 108 squ inch
and the cone filter also has a conical filter area on top so its real filter surface area is greater than 108"
combine that with a de-screened MAF (658 cfm) and there should be no flow problems for an injected motor
I agree but I am still concerned about the possible problem with the maf and the extra airflow. I figured I will deal with it if/when it arises. Once I get mine installed I will post pics. I do not plan on removing the maf screens.
I think the trick to getting the pod filter in is the 45 degree silicone hose, it fits perfectly along the top of the radiator and down the shroud and allows the filter to sit nicely in the gap,
I recently put a new filter in,
The other issue that people overlook is the extra surface area of a pod filter v a flat filter,
the flat filter is 14" x 7" = 98 squ inch,
the cone filter is 18" x 6" = 108 squ inch
and the cone filter also has a conical filter area on top so its real filter surface area is greater than 108"
combine that with a de-screened MAF (658 cfm) and there should be no flow problems for an injected motor
yeah it does not look that smashed, 1/2 inch squeeze?
will moving the cut forward 2 inches clear the tight spot?
do you use oil on the filter, why can't you just wash the filter?
did you make that cradle? maybo zip ties and the hood would hold it in place...
what do you think the stock one flows with a cut lid... as if that helps...
Last edited by slickfx3; Jan 12, 2013 at 02:48 AM.
From what I could gather, the stock air box flows approx. 500 cfm. I have a hard time accepting that figure but then when you look at the shape of the intake it can't flow very much more. I was kinda hoping someone would post that very information. Anyone know for sure what the stock setup flows?
I found this thread that verifies what I had read someplace else. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...take-mods.html
Last edited by Midnight 85; Jan 12, 2013 at 04:58 AM.
Reason: Added info
If you want to reduce the inlet flow restriction on MAF L98s, use 4" tubing all the way and 4" MAF housing, or integrate the MAF directly into the tubing. Of course, you will still need to use an oval section over the radiator to allow the hood to close.
Be aware that long runs of silicone hose will collapse if there is any pressure differential across the air filter and ducting as flow increases.
I'd use one long 45 degree bend aluminum tubing, oval'd for clearance over the radiator, with slot style MAF mounted directly into the tubing. Filter on one end with short silicone coupler at throttle body.
If you want to get colder air, cut the forward radiator shrowd to increase cold flow to the filter and/or run the filter underneath the shrowd. You can also just remove the shrowd and aux fan if equipped, but coolant temps will rise somewhat, putting more load on the main fan.
This photo might help to illustrate the general idea (3" tubing shown is plenty for forced induction):
Last edited by tequilaboy; Jan 12, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
Good info, thanks. I had wondered about the silicone collapsing but I don't think I'm going to have that long of a piece when I'm done. The 45 angle should be okay and I doubt if I will have but 8-10 inches of straight, I won't know until the stuff gets here.
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