C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Wheel Bearings!

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 12:29 AM
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Default Rear Wheel Bearings!

I just bought my first corvetteDDDD!!! (will post pics tomorrow)
But it came with some problems :/ It is a 1989 though!
So the problems are: the 2 rear wheel bearings are loose and need to be replaced, the break calipers on the same wheels, both anti freeze drain plugs on the engine need replaced(leaking a little), and the dip stick oil tip i think is leaking from a bad o ring.

So this weekend i am going to tackle the rear wheel bearings and the calipers. Is that easy work if you work with someone who knows what they are doing? And same with the break calipers!
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 01:02 AM
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On the rear wheel bearing use a 1/2 impact gun with the torx bit. Use max "push in" force when applying torque. I would suggest removing the half shaft to get the room needed to get it done.

Regarding drain plugs on the motor, do you mean frost plugs? The only drain I know of is on the lower end of the radiator.

Brake calipers are pretty easy usually. On other cars or trucks I have used a rubber mallet and a box end wrench to get them started off.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 01:09 AM
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i might need a little more instruction on the wheel bearings.
and for the frost plugs or antifrreeze plug drain. i mean the two plugs on the bottom of the engine. Any idea?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 02:20 AM
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Read this http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-bearings.html

As far as the freeze plug, its pretty hard to replace/fix with the engine in the car. They do make what is called a "soft plug". It is a peace of rubber, with a washer on each side, and a bolt through the middle. When you tighten the bolt, the rubber squishes out and seals the hole. h http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...er+freeze+plug
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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Replace the teflon coated washers while you are at it. You will be glad you did.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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jack up the car and get under the back and soak the hell out of the 3 torx bolts that hold the bearings in. you need to rotate the half shaft to get a clean shot at them. its a process of using extensions and turning the shaft until you find a good angle. its not that much to change out the u-joints while you are in there as well, especially if you remove the shaft. I used timken bearings. Do not use white box, made in china cheap bearings. Buy usa. Rock auto has good prices. Tons of good threads on this so do a search and you will find everything you need and more. If you do the u-joints buy spicer. I may even have some brand new u-joint straps that I didn't use if you don't want to clean up the old ones. Its a good chance to clean up all the aluminum down there as well. have fun and good luck. its not hard just time consuming
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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It is much easier to not pull out the axle shaft and saves you some time.

The trick is finding the correct extension length. I played with it for a while and finally got the right length. I think I used a combo of a long and short extension. Makes it a very simple job.
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